• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Most overpriced bespoke suits, Kiton or Brioni?

Patek

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
4,063
Reaction score
1,755
Some real gems of wisdom here. I can't even pick the best one to quote. One of my favorites is the claim that Starbucks sells good coffee.
 

Klobber

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
2,226
Reaction score
96
Amuses me how people just assume bespoke by "a certain tailor on Saville Row or in Italy" creams Brioni or Kiton into the ground. The concept that bespoke, by default, is superior to a branded product is one of the largest misconceptions people have about suiting.

I do agree that trad bespoke does carry a uniqueness and charm to it that may be lacking in a high end RTW / MTM or branded bespoke suit. But is traditional bespoke better across the whole board? Maybe, maybe not. Beauty being in the eye of the beholder and all that.....

Only a check book can provide an answer - if you want a bespoke piece made from the finest super "xxx" twine maybe with some vicuna chucked in, prepare for a highly costly experience just to replicate a particular Kiton garment. I doubt a bespoke suit made from super 200's wool from an internationally recognized tailor would end up much cheaper than actual Kiton piece. As for handwork - the bespoke piece will not necessarily indicate more is better. Sometimes yes, all the time, no.

Saville Row suits I have seen by Anderson Sheppard do not appear more handmade than Kiton to my own eye. However, one thing did stand out to my attention. The fabric and drape on a typically nice Kiton kicks Anderson's ass into the middle of next week. True this could be an apples to oranges comparison given the fabric is something that a customer would invoke his degree of freedom, where many traditionalists do not go for super thin wools coming out of some of the Italian mills.

My 2Cents. As for Kiton being expensive. Yes it is, move on, it is a brand name and few people outside of Styleforum would give them their dues if they (and others like them) countenance an edict where they must peddle their wares as part of a zero sum game. After all, what business wants to break even or take losses?
 
Last edited:

JubeiSpiegel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Messages
5,405
Reaction score
1,041

Amuses me how people just assume bespoke by "a certain tailor on Saville Row or in Italy" creams Brioni or Kiton into the ground. The concept that bespoke, by default, is superior to a branded product is one of the largest misconceptions people have about suiting.
I do agree that trad bespoke does carry a uniqueness and charm to it that may be lacking in a high end RTW / MTM or branded bespoke suit. But is traditional bespoke better across the whole board? Maybe, maybe not. Beauty being in the eye of the beholder and all that.....
Only a check book can provide an answer - if you want a bespoke piece made from the finest super "xxx" twine maybe with some vicuna chucked in, prepare for a highly costly experience just to replicate a particular Kiton garment. I doubt a bespoke suit made from super 200's wool from an internationally recognized tailor would end up much cheaper than actual Kiton piece. As for handwork - the bespoke piece will not necessarily indicate more is better. Sometimes yes, all the time, no.
Saville Row suits I have seen by Anderson Sheppard do not appear more handmade than Kiton to my own eye. However, one thing did stand out to my attention. The fabric and drape on a typically nice Kiton kicks Anderson's ass into the middle of next week. True this could be an apples to oranges comparison given the fabric is something that a customer would invoke his degree of freedom, where many traditionalists do not go for super thin wools coming out of some of the Italian mills.
My 2Cents. As for Kiton being expensive. Yes it is, move on, it is a brand name and few people outside of Styleforum would give them their dues if they (and others like them) countenance an edict where they must peddle their wares as part of a zero sum game. After all, what business wants to break even or take losses?


Well said. It has been said before, bespoke is no guarantee of sublime success. You are as much responsible, as your tailor, in designing a successful suit.

It is a road i look forward to taking one day, but it should not detract from the likes of Kiton or Brioni...
 

Cedric

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
304
Reaction score
16
I understand that Kiton is handmade but i have to say that some of the stuff they do is down right sloppy.
Look at the stitching on the tag below.

700


I compared the construction of my Kiton pants with that of a Tom Ford, and truth be told, as much as i love Kiton, the TF won by a large margin.
Lots of sloppyness on the part of Kiton.
 
Last edited:

Klobber

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
2,226
Reaction score
96

Well said. It has been said before, bespoke is no guarantee of sublime success. You are as much responsible, as your tailor, in designing a successful suit.
It is a road i look forward to taking one day, but it should not detract from the likes of Kiton or Brioni...



I would love to enjoy that whole bespoke experience. Have yet to take the plunge.


I understand that Kiton is handmade but i have to say that some of the stuff they do is down right sloppy.
Look at the stitching on the tag below.
700

I compared the construction of my Kiton pants with that of a Tom Ford, and truth be told, as much as i love Kiton, the TF won by a large margin.
Lots of sloppyness on the part of Kiton.


I would say the quality control person must have taken the day off here.

As for Tom Ford - made by Zegna to Zegna Couture standards. They are not considered to be that much below Kiton or Brioni either so what you say does not come as a surprise.
 
Last edited:

Kiwi Man

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
654
Reaction score
5

Most so called brands are overpriced. Is a Patek really worth $500k? Probably not. Like someone else said, if you complaining about the price then these products are probably not targeting you. I'd argue though that a (very good) tailor has the same mark up percentage as these brands mentioned above. When I started out at the firm I'm with now I decided to get a decent suit. Not knowing that much about suiting I naturally gravitated to the big brands, I settled on a charcoal grey Gucci suit. I had it tailored at my local tailor. He said he'd do me a fully bespoke suit for R15 000 (South African Rand) more or less what I paid at Gucci. Granted, the quality and fit from my tailor is superior but his overall costs are very low and his mark up pretty high. He operated from his upmarket home and works alone so his overheads are minimal. However, I'm pretty sure the bespoke suit he made for me cost him no more than R3500 to produce, the rest is pure profit. Contrast that with the overheads of my local Gucci boutique, my tailor is also over charging. I'll be honest, if I could afford a Kiton I'd buy one (or three). I'd also argue that Kiton and Brioni are alot more understated than other brands such as Armani. I still get more compliments from people when they discover my grey suit is a Gucci than any of my fully bespoke numbers. My Louis Vuitton ties get more compliments than my Brioni ties. So I'd say overall these brands (Kiton and Brioni) are pretty understated.


Do you live in Asia?

In my home country, SEA, people would judge what it looks nice based mostly on the brand name, but NOT the style or material used.
 

GQman

New Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
2
Reaction score
0

Do you live in Asia?

In my home country, SEA, people would judge what it looks nice based mostly on the brand name, but NOT the style or material used.


No, I live in South Africa. I'm of European descent in case you're wondering. People in South Africa, especially the newly minted tend to be most impressed with labels. The higher end stuff can be hard to find and therefore isn't well known by most.
 

loopbloke

New Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
I totally agree; to me, yes there are some basic quality in the material is a must, but after that, its all about the style and how it fits. and to be honest i love Zegna brand and corneliani. they have their own production of wool i guess, which is why their cost is much lower comparatively. Also I know for a fact that saks has this ridiculous sales once a year where you get these suits marked down really well. About bespoke, luckily i am able to get ready made suits well fitted and needed only little bit of corrections here and there.
 
Last edited:

SirGrotius

Distinguished Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
5,000
Reaction score
3,175
At that price point, it's not only about the quality, it's about the way it makes you feel.
 

Texasmade

Stylish Dinosaur
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
28,618
Reaction score
37,632
2 years later you respond?
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,944
Messages
10,593,070
Members
224,350
Latest member
Aevenshort
Top