Need advice for my first bespoke suit.

[MasterChiefS117]

I am a university student and I am 21 years old. My parents promise me to buy a bespoke suit to reward me for losing weights. Their budget is about 18000 USD. First I want to go Kiton or Brioni but I heard their quailty isn't good. Then I think maybe Savile Row is a choice. However, I live in Toronto and I cannot just fly across the ocean to London for the multiple fittings because I am a full-time student. I know Huntsman&sons has one shop in New York, and it is much easier for me to fly to New York instead of flying to London. I want a three-piece suit with fabric like Scabal Sunrise(50% silk and 50% Super 200s wool) or Scabal Summit( Super 250s). How much will it take for the tailor shops like Huntsman? Will it be cheaper if I fly to Savile Row?

 

[PORCAMOSRL]

If you want to have a suit tailored exactly to fit you, we can't help you much, but I absolutely could not stand by without saying that whoever told you "Kiton and Brioni is not good quality" has absolutely no idea what they're talking about.

You can browse our suits to have some idea of styles of fabrics you might like, we have over 20,000 Kiton, Brioni, Isaia, Cesare Attolini, and more

I'm not saying you should buy one! Obviously - you want a handtailored suit made to measure. But maybe we can help you find a pattern or colour you like

You could also save yourself and your parents a mountain of cash and buy something like a FeFe or Barba Napoli suit for less than $800, they are forward-thinking modern fashion brands

edit: You could also buy a Kiton suit/blazer for $5000 and have it tailored to your body shape/style

Hamish

 

[Phileas Fogg]

$18,000???

 

[breakaway01]

it would help if you told us whether you are used to wearing suits and if so, what suits you currently wear. The advice will be different if you are relatively new to tailored clothing.

Also would help to know what you plan to wear this suit for and how often you’ll be wearing it. For example if this is going to be a workhorse suit that you want to wear every week, maybe you should consider a sturdier fabric.

Finally after having lost weight, do you have a fairly “standard” body shape? Many assume that “bespoke” must necessarily fit better than OTR but that is not always the case. OTR plus minor alterations can work really well for many/most people. Have you tried different suits on yet?

 

[nevaeh]

Their budget is about 18000 USD.

Is there a way to be adopted into your family???

 

[archipel]

Okay, so I'll suggest not getting a bespoke suit for two reasons. First of all, a man's body will often change quite a bit between 21 and 25. If I look at myself, I also changed quite a bit. You can also see if your weight loss stays. Secondly, bespoke works best and has the greatest benefit over OTR/MTM if you know exactly what you want. It seems from your post that you are just beginning in your sartorial journey. I'll suggest getting a nice (non-bespoke) suit, wear that for a while. Look at the things you like and what you don't like. Use that experience to get a bespoke suit after a few years.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Okay, so I'll suggest not getting a bespoke suit for two reasons. First of all, a man's body will often change quite a bit between 21 and 25. If I look at myself, I also changed quite a bit. You can also see if your weight loss stays. Secondly, bespoke works best and has the greatest benefit over OTR/MTM if you know exactly what you want. It seems from your post that you are just beginning in your sartorial journey. I'll suggest getting a nice (non-bespoke) suit, wear that for a while. Look at the things you like and what you don't like. Use that experience to get a bespoke suit after a few years.

This. It seems like you have money to burn but I'd suggest maybe not burning it on one suit. Bespoke is a very variable experience, especially when you start off. You sound like you don't even know what house style would suit you or what you would like, @MasterChiefS117 - Huntsman and Kiton are almost at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of cut: Huntsman traditionally makes a very structured, English suit with strong shoulders and a shaped waist - like a suit or woollen armour, as someone once described it. And you really shouldn't start off with some deluxe fabric you like and work that way!

Frankly, with the money you have, I'd remember that you are young and kit yourself out with a decent wardrobe that covers the range of social situations you personally (not anyone else) are going to be involved in. If you need suits, buy a couple of good quality OTR suits that you actually like, whose jackets fit you across you shoulders (the most important thing) and are roughly the right length, and get them adjusted everywhere else by a good alterations tailor (or in-house if they do that). Get some decent shoes. Spend some on solid casual clothes that you are actually going to wear. That might bring you up to $9000.

Give the other half to charities for the homeless or other people who need it.

 

[nevaeh]

This. It seems like you have money to burn but I'd suggest maybe not burning it on one suit. Bespoke is a very variable experience, especially when you start off. You sound like you don't even know what house style would suit you or what you would like, @MasterChiefS117 - Huntsman and Kiton are almost at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of cut: Huntsman traditionally makes a very structured, English suit with strong shoulders and a shaped waist - like a suit or woollen armour, as someone once described it. And you really shouldn't start off with some deluxe fabric you like and work that way!

Frankly, with the money you have, I'd remember that you are young and kit yourself out with a decent wardrobe that covers the range of social situations you personally (not anyone else) are going to be involved in. If you need suits, buy a couple of good quality OTR suits that you actually like, whose jackets fit you across you shoulders (the most important thing) and are roughly the right length, and get them adjusted everywhere else by a good alterations tailor (or in-house if they do that). Get some decent shoes. Spend some on solid casual clothes that you are actually going to wear. That might bring you up to $9000.

Give the other half to charities for the homeless or other people who need it.

Have you considered traveling tailors like Steed or Divij Bespoke? Not sure whether they travel to Toronto. You might want to ask them. You won’t get a marque name, but you can get a very decent bespoke or semi-bespoke suit from them for a fraction of your parents’ budget. Save money. You can use this first suit to learn the process and then, as you grow up, use the savings to buy additional suits in the future.

Or, as others have said, save the money or donate it.

Also, what will you use this suit for? as I understand, higher super numbers mean less robust suits—you may wear out that fabric quickly. Use the tailor to guide your fabric selection. Perhaps a more robust fabric, even a super 110 or 130 might be better for your needs. looking back at my 21 year old self, I definitely would not have cared for my super 250 the way it needed.

 

[classicalthunde]

Okay, so I'll suggest not getting a bespoke suit for two reasons. First of all, a man's body will often change quite a bit between 21 and 25. If I look at myself, I also changed quite a bit. You can also see if your weight loss stays. Secondly, bespoke works best and has the greatest benefit over OTR/MTM if you know exactly what you want. It seems from your post that you are just beginning in your sartorial journey. I'll suggest getting a nice (non-bespoke) suit, wear that for a while. Look at the things you like and what you don't like. Use that experience to get a bespoke suit after a few years.

assuming the $18K budget isn't a typo for $1,800...it seems like this dude has F U money, so why not shoot for the stars...if mom and dad can afford $18K for a bespoke suit at 21, they can prob do the same at 25 and 30 when his body changes significantly

If I was in those shoes (once again, assuming $18K and not $1.8K)...I would fly to NYC and check out Brioni, Tom Ford, and Kiton boutiques to see their RTW stuff (which will probably include a very significant amount of alterations to bring it closer to MTM) and make some appointments for Huntsman, a Steed trunk show, or an Armoury Liverano trunk show to compare the two.

If resources aren't an issue I'd primarily focus on what you want to suit to look like....a Huntsman suit and a Kiton suit are two very different styles. Is it for work or going out? Do you want to do the classic navy or grey starter suit, or do you want something wild?

lastly piece of advice, I'd caution against pigeon holing your self to the most luxurious fabrics because they are the most expensive. Expensive doesn't necessarily equate to value or good


@MasterChiefS117 Simon Crompton just did a review of Brioni bespoke...he has suits from all of the major Savile Row houses, and found the Brioni bespoke to be of high quality and comparable to SR

Permanent Style

Brioni bespoke tailoring

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[yanagi]

I agree with the opinions of others in the thread that it would probably be better if you experimented with RTW first to find out what you like first. That said, it's your parents' money, not ours, so your choice.

If you live in Toronto and you're set on a bespoke suit, why not give a (relatively) local tailor a try? Disclaimer: I have never used him, but there is a tailor in Montreal. This is an example of his work:

The Ultimate Montreal Thread

Montreal is the oldest (Quebec City is by definition) and trendiest city in North America and the second largest city in Canada. All North American French-English influences, industries and civilization can be traced back to here. In the 19th century the city was the center of wealth, culture...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Phileas Fogg]

assuming the $18K budget isn't a typo for $1,800...it seems like this dude has F U money,

then he really should go by admiral as opposed to master chief.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I’m not really sure where the “Brioni and Kiton quality isn’t good quality” thing comes from.

For OTR they are certainly overpriced but I’m not aware of quality issues.

 

[MasterChiefS117]

it would help if you told us whether you are used to wearing suits and if so, what suits you currently wear. The advice will be different if you are relatively new to tailored clothing.

Also would help to know what you plan to wear this suit for and how often you’ll be wearing it. For example if this is going to be a workhorse suit that you want to wear every week, maybe you should consider a sturdier fabric.

Finally after having lost weight, do you have a fairly “standard” body shape? Many assume that “bespoke” must necessarily fit better than OTR but that is not always the case. OTR plus minor alterations can work really well for many/most people. Have you tried different suits on yet?

This is my first suit. I wish to wear this suit for some formal events or business meeting in the future. And I sometimes may use it for party. I am 184cm and weight 90kg so I am not slim.

 

[MasterChiefS117]

assuming the $18K budget isn't a typo for $1,800...it seems like this dude has F U money, so why not shoot for the stars...if mom and dad can afford $18K for a bespoke suit at 21, they can prob do the same at 25 and 30 when his body changes significantly

If I was in those shoes (once again, assuming $18K and not $1.8K)...I would fly to NYC and check out Brioni, Tom Ford, and Kiton boutiques to see their RTW stuff (which will probably include a very significant amount of alterations to bring it closer to MTM) and make some appointments for Huntsman, a Steed trunk show, or an Armoury Liverano trunk show to compare the two.

If resources aren't an issue I'd primarily focus on what you want to suit to look like....a Huntsman suit and a Kiton suit are two very different styles. Is it for work or going out? Do you want to do the classic navy or grey starter suit, or do you want something wild?

lastly piece of advice, I'd caution against pigeon holing your self to the most luxurious fabrics because they are the most expensive. Expensive doesn't necessarily equate to value or good


@MasterChiefS117 Simon Crompton just did a review of Brioni bespoke...he has suits from all of the major Savile Row houses, and found the Brioni bespoke to be of high quality and comparable to SR

Permanent Style

Brioni bespoke tailoring

www.permanentstyle.com

I think this suit will be for work but I won't wear it everyday. I think I will wear it only when it comes important events, important meetings or situations like giving a speech or dinner. I prefer dark colour like black or navy blue and I like Peak Lapel.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

My parents promise me to buy a bespoke suit to reward me for losing weights. Their budget is about 18000 USD.

The only reward I got from my parents for losing weight was that they stopped calling me fat all the time.

BBL gonna balloon up to 400lbs and hold my cardiovascular system hostage until my mom ponies up the $$.


Can you have them buy you a F1 car instead? That's also a thing that works better when you weigh less. I see you are from Canadia; is your dad by any chance Lawrence Stroll?

Edit: In Toronto you should visit an especially esteemed House of Tailoring called Spier & Mackay. It is pretty much the #1 sartorial destination for gentlemen of distinction on this forum.