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Need advice for my first bespoke suit.

stuffedsuperdud

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Sorry, I am just a rookie in suiting. My father is not a "suit" guy so nobody teach me about that in my family. The main source of my understanding in suit is TV series or movies. TV series like Suits or Movie like Kingsman. Havey Specter in Suits always wears Peak Lapel suit for work and Tony Stark wears one Tom Ford peak lapel three piece suit in Capitain America. As a result, I don't know why peak lapel is not good for work since it looks sharp and cool. Can you explain it in details?
Those are costumes designed that way specifically to signify to these audience that Harvey Specter and (early) Tony Stark are both giant gaping unwiped buttholes. They're the protagonists of their story so we take their side and see things from their perspective, but you walking into a room dressed like them is an $18,000 way to distract an audience who has a lot of money to spend but not necessarily on you. Notice Tony slowly stops dressing like this as his redemption story arc moves along towards Endgame.

If however you're ever in a oligargh hellhole like Dubai and the kind to open and close a drunk argument with "Do you know who my father is?!" before having your ex-Spetznaz driver kneecap someone for looking at your funny, then by all means, get after it, bro: a reddish or burgundy peak lapel plaid with shiny overcheck and red cuff and lapel buttonholes will get the job done.

BTW how fat are you? What's the exchange rate between $ and lbs? $18k vs whatever can fit on a human frame is a huge # unless you're one of those My-600-lb-Life guys, and even then, your parents are still putting you in dry age ribeye territory. Delicious!

Come to think of it, does anyone know of a suit, off the rack or otherwise, that would cost $18k? I mean, it sounds like some shit that Bijan would sell.
The Bijan version is probably yellow with pink pinstripes, woven just for them. Get it with matching silk shirt, sunglasses, socks, gator skin loafers, handbag, luggage, for $320k out the door. @JFWR would shell out for the matching sneakers or yellow suede oxfords probably ;); it's fine because if you have Bijan money, you do you. If I had that kind of money I would probably skip the socks and spend the $ on Ukrainian escorts with MS degrees in nuclear reactor engineering.


International arms dealer fantasies aside, my tailor said that he has made one vicuna suit ever, and it came out to be about $20,000 for just the 3.5m of fabric. I was surprised he'd do that since he doesn't like working with flannels, cashmere, etc. on account of how fragile they are, but he said that vicuna is somehow both super soft and super strong and durable at the same time, never too warm or too cold, and the cost is fair. I'll have to take his word for it about the mechanical and thermal qualities, I guess, as I'll never have that kind of fuck-you money. He said he was trembling as he brought his shears up for the first cut, as one mistake and he would immediately lose the margin on the fabric. Two and he'd be lucky to break even on the whole suit. Yikes!
 
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acapaca

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Sorry, I am just a rookie in suiting. My father is not a "suit" guy so nobody teach me about that in my family. The main source of my understanding in suit is TV series or movies. TV series like Suits or Movie like Kingsman. Havey Specter in Suits always wears Peak Lapel suit for work and Tony Stark wears one Tom Ford peak lapel three piece suit in Capitain America. As a result, I don't know why peak lapel is not good for work since it looks sharp and cool. Can you explain it in details?
Do you have a couple workweeks to spare? Your best bet is to spend eight-hour days going through Vox's entire picture archive. Then do it again. Ten times.
 

Nobilis Animus

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International arms dealer fantasies aside, my tailor said that he has made one vicuna suit ever, and it came out to be about $20,000 for just the 3.5m of fabric. I was surprised he'd do that since he doesn't like working with flannels, cashmere, etc. on account of how fragile they are, but he said that vicuna is somehow both super soft and super strong and durable at the same time, never too warm or too cold, and the cost is fair. I'll have to take his word for it about the mechanical and thermal qualities, I guess, as I'll never have that kind of fuck-you money. He said he was trembling as he brought his shears up for the first cut, as one mistake and he would immediately lose the margin on the fabric. Two and he'd be lucky to break even on the whole suit. Yikes!
As an aside, I'm curious about this with regard to something like angora in particular. Does anyone know the relative cost of, say, a 50/50 wool-angora blend fabric?
 

stuffedsuperdud

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$18,000 Canadian dollars, or U.S.?
US
Good, because $18000CAD is rookie money.

Anyway, here's another answer to your question, @Phileas Fogg From Scabal's Private Line. The blue part is a S180s wool cashmere blend, which I am sure is lovely and arguably worth the $500/m that Scabal would probably charge.



The rope stripes are words woven into the fabric. Basically a total waste of the blue fabric and an especially gaudy way of announcing your insecurities to the world and the fact that your fortune is quite new and/or probably unearned. Yours for something like $6000/m. I've only seen this used twice ever, once on Conor McGregor (his said "fuck you" over and over again which I suppose was rather on-brand for him) and once for some Russian oligarch on a BBC special about how to blow a million £ in Mayfair. OP, this could be yours.
 

Nobilis Animus

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I don't think the OP is trying to spend 18k on one suit, just that it's his budget. It's quite likely that he could get a couple suits for that amount that will be both properly bespoke and allow for some nicer fabrics/modifications.
 

yanagi

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I don't think the OP is trying to spend 18k on one suit, just that it's his budget. It's quite likely that he could get a couple suits for that amount that will be both properly bespoke and allow for some nicer fabrics/modifications.
OP can clarify, but based on the cloth books he was interested in, it seemed that he was willing to spend 18k on one suit:

I want a three-piece suit with fabric like Scabal Sunrise(50% silk and 50% Super 200s wool) or Scabal Summit( Super 250s).
 

Nobilis Animus

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OP can clarify, but based on the cloth books he was interested in, it seemed that he was willing to spend 18k on one suit:
Totally missed that. Carry on, then.
 
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I don't think the OP is trying to spend 18k on one suit, just that it's his budget. It's quite likely that he could get a couple suits for that amount that will be both properly bespoke and allow for some nicer fabrics/modifications.
Honestly, I never expected to have one $18000 suit. My original deal with my parents is just something around $4600 RTW suit.( Zegna, Canali or Tom Ford). However, my parents thought it was too slow for me to lose weight so they decide to give me more motivation. Since I am not familiar with suit, I don't know the price should be for one decent suit. Last year, when I was in China, we visited the Brioni store in Shanghai. The sales told me one basic bespoke three piece suit with super180s fabric would cost 100000RMB( which is about 18000 USD). Then we visited Kiton store in Beijing, the sales told me that their basic RTW two piece suit with micro 14 fabric is about 18000 USD( They said MTM will cost 30% more). My father then made me the promise that he would buy me a $18000 suit if I achieve the goal of losing weight( which didn't surprise me since he usually made this kind of promises when I was much younger. He said he would buy me one escalade if I get high mark in final exam when I was grade 8. ) After I returned to Canada, I learned that even Savile Row bespoke won't cost that much and brands like Kiton or Brioni charge much higher price to Chinese market than they charge to Europe or North America. Then I think maybe getting two suits and one tuxedo is better. But my mom said if I can keep my weight for one year, she would buy me another $18000 suit or tuxedo. In other words, if I can keep my weight, my parents will buy me one $18000 suit every year until I get Master degree. From my understanding, they think it is affordable then I have no obligation to save money for them. If I buy one $5000 suit to save money, they won't give me the rest $13000 to spend on something else.
 

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