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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

ataru

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It doesn't look bad, but I think the youth 18 would look better. Peacoats that fit small tend to make people look like their head is too large for their body. The boy's peacoat does seem like a good choice though, as the standard 740 runs long in the small sizes.
 

Mexicorn

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I'll try to update this post as soon I as I can upload pictures, but my Sterlingwear authentic in 36XL just arrived.

I have some black coats already so I got the oxford grey. Ordered on the 4th and it just arrived today. Not bad for it having to be made.

For reference, I'm 6'2"-3"ish, ~160lbs and 36" chest. The arm length is spot on which is what i was most worried about. Usually coats are two small in the sleeves or too long if I order a "tall" size from a retailer that carries it. BE CAREFUL WHAT THE SALESLADY TELLS YOU. When I called and asked, she recommended me a 36L, but I think the sleeves would have ended up a tad short for me (and I wanted a long coat to cover more of ****** anyway). I think the 6'5"+ recommendation they give is more a rule of thumb for the more standard sizes. Since they're measuring the sleeve length from the inseam, I'd bet that the outseam length on a 40L will be substantially bigger than a 34L.

My true chest size is a 36" and it's a little loose around the chest/stomach area, but I have some broad shoulders and it's nice and snug up there. Definitely would not be comfortable sizing down to a 34.

Oh, regarding the buttons. From previous posters I was lead to believe that the buttons would be cheap plastic, but judging from their temperature (cool) and feel, they seem to be some sort of enameled metal or ceramic composition. Am I just imagining things?
 

Stylin-1

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Originally Posted by icec0ld
i'm debating between this dark grey uniqlo (japan large) vs the grey sterlingwear...

the uniqlo seems to fit me right with a slight box look although the sleeves are a touch long...
uni.jpg


hopefully the sterlingwear grey comes in time for me to make a decision.

Go with the Sterlingwear. Flap pockets look really off on a peacoat, not to mention once you shorten those sleeves, those flap things will be too close to the end of the sleeve.
 

Ikouja

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I have a peacoat which I've owned for about a year now, It has a polyester lining which on the interior of both arms on the seam, slowly rips. I just sewed it back together, but I since I have to sew it on the inside I would like to know how I could possibly prevent this slow ripping in the future.
eh.gif
 

thenanyu

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Originally Posted by icec0ld
i'm debating between this dark grey uniqlo (japan large) vs the grey sterlingwear...

the uniqlo seems to fit me right with a slight box look although the sleeves are a touch long...
uni.jpg


hopefully the sterlingwear grey comes in time for me to make a decision.


I think it's a good fit. I don't mind the flap pockets much at all (I wear the RL Academy which also has them) but I passed on the Uniqlo because I really dislike the three pronounced welted seams on the back. They are really quite obnoxious looking on any of the solid colorways.

The blackwatch and the red tartan versions look super awesome for anyone willing to make the effort. The bold patterns hide the seams very well. I might end up purchasing the blackwatch myself once it goes on sale (as if $99 wasn't cheap enough).
 

nystyle86

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Hello, first post here.

I'm 5'5'' 110lbs, 32-33 chest size, 28 waist/jean size.

I'm planning on getting the Sterlingwear Authentic coat and going to try the 34 in a store and from there will decide if I'll size down to 32. I intend to layer for the winter but do not want the coat to be too loose or too restricting, especially in the arms and chest. (I already returned my first peacoat from American Apparel in size xxs/xs which I ordered based on review recommendations on their site. The AA was short in arms and very restricting in chest and arm movement. The other issue was that the AA's peacoat was not warm for NYC winter/winds).

I have read many pages in this thread, but not many people mention whether the coat is very warm or not in windy situations or how it handles rainy weather? I'm expecting same warmth performance as I do from my NorthFace jackets.
Is there a big trade off in warmth between 24oz and 32oz wool in Sterlingwear? Also, does anyone know about Sterlingwear's "Spec?" coat which is supposedly a warmer wool that they use for the military. I wonder if it really is so much better than the civilian models in warmth and quality?
 

demonsblood

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Hey guys, I have been lurking this thread and was tempted to order a sterlingwear authentic peacoat, but ended up liking the peacoat offered at armani exchange.

size: small
height: 6 feet
weight: 155-160 lb

peacoat-1.jpg


any good?
 

snuff_daddy

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just got my peacoat from sterling...i ordered a grey authentic...and they sent me a black!??!?!

but i like it though
 

Peacoat

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Originally Posted by nystyle86
Hello, first post here.

I'm 5'5'' 110lbs, 32-33 chest size, 28 waist/jean size.

I'm planning on getting the Sterlingwear Authentic coat and going to try the 34 in a store and from there will decide if I'll size down to 32. I intend to layer for the winter but do not want the coat to be too loose or too restricting, especially in the arms and chest. (I already returned my first peacoat from American Apparel in size xxs/xs which I ordered based on review recommendations on their site. The AA was short in arms and very restricting in chest and arm movement. The other issue was that the AA's peacoat was not warm for NYC winter/winds).

I have read many pages in this thread, but not many people mention whether the coat is very warm or not in windy situations or how it handles rainy weather? I'm expecting same warmth performance as I do from my NorthFace jackets.
Is there a big trade off in warmth between 24oz and 32oz wool in Sterlingwear? Also, does anyone know about Sterlingwear's "Spec?" coat which is supposedly a warmer wool that they use for the military. I wonder if it really is so much better than the civilian models in warmth and quality?


Sterlingwear makes a good peacoat. They have the current contract for Navy issue coats. Their civilian peacoats aren't as heavy as the issue coats, however. And the current issue coats aren't as heavy as the vintage (prior to 1980) peacoats. The current peacoats aren't windproof or water resistant, due to the weave of the wool. They are about as warm as the vintage coats because of a liner that was added to compensate for the lighter weight wool used in the outer shell of the current issue coats. But the liner doesn't help much with blocking the wind and gives no help in keeping the precipitation out.

The vintage coats were made of a different type of wool. They were windproof, water resistant and warm, depending, of course, on the layering. I have spent many a cold night and day in the City with a peacoat, a wool sweater and a wool shirt. Kept me warm in my travels in the Village and up around Columbia. When the temps get around 0, I find that I need to go with a down filler, such as found in the North Face jackets and vests.

So, if you are looking for North Face performance in the civilian peacoats, you won't find it. You will come closer in the vintage peacoats. But when the temp drops to close to 0, even with layering under a vintage peacoat, it is time to go with something really warm, such as a down filler.

Of course body build makes a big difference in warmth. I have never had much body fat to help keep me warm, so that needs to be factored in my comments about temperature and warmth.

For a discussion about vintage peacoats, see this article at the Fedora Lounge:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=37699
 

nystyle86

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^ So you're saying that even their issued non civilian version is also not warm enough to handle serious cold weather? Should I spend more money and get the non civilian version or there is no point if it's not that warmer than civilian?

I visited the Kaufman's army-navy store and tried out Sterling Authentic Navy in size 36s because they did not have a 34 or smaller. I was very surprised that even the 36 was almost good on me even though I'm chest size 32-33 waist 28. They told me that a 34R will be available but only in mil spec (non civilian) and those come only in black. I might just get the 34 and not worry about size 32.
 

amnesiac

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Originally Posted by nystyle86
^ So you're saying that even their issued non civilian version is also not warm enough to handle serious cold weather? Should I spend more money and get the non civilian version or there is no point if it's not that warmer than civilian?

I visited the Kaufman's army-navy store and tried out Sterling Authentic Navy in size 36s because they did not have a 34 or smaller. I was very surprised that even the 36 was almost good on me even though I'm chest size 32-33 waist 28. They told me that a 34R will be available but only in mil spec (non civilian) and those come only in black. I might just get the 34 and not worry about size 32.


The current Melton wool (both military and civilian) is not AS water resistant or wind resistant as the older wool. I find that my authentic is still plenty warm with just a sweater underneath and i wander around new york up by columbia most of the time. that being said, even the authentic with its lighter 24oz wool is a pretty substantial coat. All other peacoats you handle in most stores will feel really light and thin in comparison.

I have a 37.5" chest and 32 waist and i wear a 36 just fine. it's really about the shoulders though, as long as the shoulders fit you can reasonably get it tailored to make the body proportional. Also, you don't have too much of a drop from chest to waist. I didn't know that kaufman's sells mil spec coats too. makes sense. 34 would probably fit just fine. I'm not a fan of the 3 sizes down business around here that ends up looking awkwardly skinny, just doesn't really work with sterlingwears. Let us know if the spec is cut differently or is that much thicker.
 

Peacoat

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Originally Posted by nystyle86
^ So you're saying that even their issued non civilian version is also not warm enough to handle serious cold weather? Should I spend more money and get the non civilian version or there is no point if it's not that warmer than civilian?

I visited the Kaufman's army-navy store and tried out Sterling Authentic Navy in size 36s because they did not have a 34 or smaller. I was very surprised that even the 36 was almost good on me even though I'm chest size 32-33 waist 28. They told me that a 34R will be available but only in mil spec (non civilian) and those come only in black. I might just get the 34 and not worry about size 32.



Everyone has a different sense of what is "serious" cold weather. For me it is approaching 0 on the F scale. I am 6' 182 with a 42 chest and a 34 waist, so there isn't much fat to insulate from the cold.

I have found the vintage peacoats, layered with a heavy wool sweater, to be warm enough for me with temps into the low teens, especially if I am walking or moving around. Most civilian peacoats aren't heavy enough for this type of weather, especially in windy conditions. The current issue coats will probably be as warm if the wind isn't blowing too hard, or if it isn't raining. The vintage coats will shed water in a light rain for short periods of time, but even with their tight weave, can't hold up in heavy rain or for long exposure to the rain.

My civilian Sterlingwear is the M22 Classic. The shell is 80% wool, 20% nylon in true black. It is a 44L (I gained 10 lbs or so due to an ankle injury about 8 years ago--have since lost it). To compensate for the lighter wool and looser weave, it has a quilted synthetic liner--similar to Thinsulate. It is about 4 1/2 lbs. It is a warm coat, comparable to a Schott or a Fidelity peacoat. Being in a strong wind for lengthy periods, will rob the coat of its warmth, however.

My current issue Sterlingwear is 100% wool, in true black, with an insulating liner between the inner liner and the outer wool shell. It weighs the same as my vintage peacoats--right at 5 lbs. It is a little warmer than my civilian model and more windproof. It is as warm as my vintage peacoats, but not as windproof or as water resistant.

The vintage peacoats--before 1980--are the best of the bunch. The wool, in a midnight blue, is a dense, heavy, thick and soft weave which is windproof and water resistant. Although I wouldn't want to be in the rain for long periods of time, as eventually the rain will saturate the wool. It works great in snow. Due to the construction of peacoats, they work much more efficiently with a heavy sweater underneath. There is a lot of open area around the cuffs and the waist which allows cold air to enter. Use of a sweater blocks these openings and traps more warm air around the body.

Although these are fine coats, and good for a wide range of temperatures, when I am sitting in a football stadium on a cold Sunday afternoon, I will usually choose a looser fitted Thinsulate or down lined coat that will allow me to layer a sweater and a down vest underneath.

For a better understanding of the vintage coats, you really need to read the article I wrote which is cited to in my earlier post above.

I hope this information will be of use to you in your search for the peacoat that is right for you. PC.
 

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