Maomao x Gaz Italian Sartorial Adventure 2012

[hendrix]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

"Can you tell me who is your tailor?"
"It depends. I can't discuss that at this time."
"Depends on what?"
"I can't discuss that at this time."
"Well I want this jacket in this color by this tailor."
"I have to check with Naples. In the meantime, can I interest you in these other tailors we have here?"

Is the desired jacket colour "70s wash"?

let's go down the rabbit hole

 

[AndrewRogers]

Thanks for posting this, Gaz. Let's all question less and appreciate more. Keep it up! Grazie. Dov'è il bagno?

 

[Douglas]



I understand your point and I am well aware of the fact that unfortunately there aren’t nearly as many active members who are "capable of sharing interesting content about classic style" I wish this wasn’t case, because I once found SF to be a much more interesting and engaging place.
I misspoke when I said “keep it all to himself.” I just find it frustrating sometimes when I see these posts of beautifully made bespoke clothing from tailors that I would be very interested in trying yet cannot because they are not named. I understand and respect it if a tailor specifically ask his clients not to share his name, but I have seen situations in the past when this reason is not mentioned. I for one have the means and the genuine interest to try these tailors and I would only ask questions about them with the genuine intent of using their services. At the same time I am very thankful to those who have posted or shared with me the tailors and artisans that they have used.
-LR

It's nice to see that you have moderated your tone considerably.

The "absurd consequences" that Mr. Corbera refers to are, unfortunately, all too real. And the reasons that have been provided should be enough to satisfy you. I can assure you that I have found many posters on here who are willing to share information, even information that is not provided as openly on the forum, if you get to know them a little bit. But publicly crowing about your tailor to a large and anonymous audience, one that has proven in the past that it can't handle good information responsibly, is not a very good idea.

I have gotten to know several SF members personally and found them to be more than open and willing to share their experiences, and their expertise. The OP of this thread included. But they're not just going to openly put it on the forum, particularly when they are insulted for not doing so.

 

[musicguy]

Man, I missed this thread... Awesome stuff. Supremely impressed by the 4 simultaneous commissions from Rubinacci and how they worked so quickly. Cheers and happy bespoking.

 

[gazman70k]



is this from teh Frontier bunch?

Si.

dat nip

It was cold.

..

Wished you post again.

interesting pov. do not share...

OMG! We agreed on something!!!

Thanks for posting this, Gaz. Let's all question less and appreciate more. Keep it up! Grazie. Dov'è il bagno?

Andate a sinistra, a destra, dritto e giù per le scale. L'uomo indossa una corta giacca di tweed vi aiuterà.

 

[add911_11]

I can't believed there is no picture update of the finished garments......

 

[Gruto]



Its not just about the weight and fresco's intended use as a summer cloth. The surface texture of fresco is, I think, at odds with the formality of a vest.

Sorry to bump in, but the idea that fresco is a rather informal cloth and for summer, seems a little narrow from a historical point of view. David Graham of Smith Woollens once told me that their fresco (Finimeresco) was quite popular for dinner dress and balls in the 1950s and 60s because of breathability and flexibility when dancing.

 

[gazman70k]

Great to see some interesting views on the casualness of fresco and the whole secret tailor nonsense. If you dislike the secret tailor issue, sorry to disappoint as I am about to introduce another.

Day 2, Florence​

Colourful old buildings...

... steeped in history and ...

...public nudity.
​

Pity that during our visit, the weather was terrible. It drizzled when we arrived from Rome and we managed to catch a break in the rain as we made our way to the Panerai boutique. While we were there, it began to pour.​

ALL PHOTOS ABOVE ARE FROM PREVIOUS TRIPS TO FLORENCE​

Patrizia, the Panerai boutique manager, was kind enough to have bought us a couple of rain coats from street vendors, and we made our way to see Antonio and Taka over at Liverano. Maomao was there for one, or was it two fittings. I forget and besides I had completed my initial order from Liverano. I won't add to the already plentiful photos of the Liverano & Liverano atelier. Instead, here's a few of my previous items which I received via the Armoury.​

These are autumn / winter wear. Photos courtesy of Ethan @ the Armoury.​

After the fittings, we did a little shopping and then it was time for lunch with Antonio and Taka. No photos because we were talking secret men's business.

After lunch, we visited Fukaya-san of il micio.

Camel skin derby... perhaps the next order.

A whole cut that is a little too funky.

We also met our secret tailor there...

...who made this particular solaro suit for Fukaya-san.

​

We headed back to his atelier where he had recently moved his operations to a three bedroom apartment. Business has been good for him. Previously, he worked out of his small one bedroom apartment. Believe it or not, this is a one-person operation.

A charcoal sharksin suit, which I orginally ordered in late 2010. This was my third fitting. I am expecting delivery in late August.

Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed. Also ordered in late 2010.

Holland and Sherry something or rather, summer weight. Apparently its vintage. This one will hopefully be ready in November. My seasonal cylce is out of whack!

A better representation of the colour and subtle patterns.

​

It took little convincing for Maomao to give this secret tailor a try.

And according to the sartorial wisdom of Mao, the first order of any new bespoke tailor should consist of a single breasted jacket and a double breasted jacket of which either has a pair of matching paints. This allows the tailor to have a base pattern for all your future orders. Makes sense if you can afford it.

Next, day 3, eating in Rome.

PS can't complaint that the Euro is tanking for the greater sartorial good.

 

[Maccimus]

Fwoking good...

 

[dopey]

I visited Fukaya when I was in Florence a couple of years ago. Really beautiful shoes, but the logistics of a bespoke shoe order in Florence were not there for me. Same for a fantastic new shoemaker I saw in Rome this summer, right next to Marini, which I would also have loved to try.
I wonder if your Florentine MBT is the same as mine. I got my recommendation from my wife's dressmaker there. I never tried him, though. Like with Fukata, I wasn't spending enough time in Florence to have a suit made (unlike my wife who was willing to make day trips from Rome).

 

[fritzl]



I visited Fukaya when I was in Florence a couple of years ago. Really beautiful shoes, but the logistics of a bespoke shoe order in Florence were not there for me.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Same for a fantastic new shoemaker I saw in Rome this summer, right next to Marini, which I would also have loved to try.
I wonder if your Florentine MBT is the same as mine. I got my recommendation from my wife's dressmaker there. I never tried him, though. Like with Fukata, I wasn't spending enough time in Florence to have a suit made (unlike my wife who was willing to make day trips from Rome)

.

you should be more adventurous...

 

[emptym]

Thank you for this, Gaz. I don't know why some feel entitled to more information, when everything shared is an unmerited gift. But I'm glad you haven't let them discourage you from posting.

I visited Fukaya when I was in Florence a couple of years ago. Really beautiful shoes, but the logistics of a bespoke shoe order in Florence were not there for me. Same for a fantastic new shoemaker I saw in Rome this summer, right next to Marini, which I would also have loved to try.
I wonder if your Florentine MBT is the same as mine. I got my recommendation from my wife's dressmaker there. I never tried him, though. Like with Fukata, I wasn't spending enough time in Florence to have a suit made (unlike my wife who was willing to make day trips from Rome).

+1 Cousins and their friends offered to introduce me to craftsmen, but I didn't think there was enough time. Took some pics of Bremer's, Ugolini's and Fukata's shops and posted them in Whnay's helpful thread, Florence Shop List.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Very nice. The H&S Gamekeeper looks exactly like a Robert Noble tweed I have.

 

[Naka]

Dat lapel roll

 

[add911_11]

Bloody hell