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Maomao x Gaz Italian Sartorial Adventure 2012

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gazman70k, May 20, 2012.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I'd like to think that StyleForum is more than just a vehicle to assist people with their shopping.

    People protect the names of their tailors for different reasons. As Vox alluded to, some people on the internet can be quite unpleasant, and not revealing names can be a way of protecting tailors from overly eager or demanding forum members. I also know a few tailors who are genuinely not looking for new clients, and wouldn't want their services publicized. They serve their current clientele happily and only accept people who have been introduced to them through trusted sources.

    And let's not overstate the situation. The majority of this forum and others are dedicated to helping people learn about artisans around the world. Only a few choose to not reveal their sources. Is that so bad?

    Either way, it's nice to see threads like this, regardless of whether the OPs decide to reveal their tailors. I wish there were more of these kinds of posts.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  2. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    agree 100%
     
  3. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    interesting pov. do not share...
     
  4. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    I understand your point and I am well aware of the fact that unfortunately there aren’t nearly as many active members who are "capable of sharing interesting content about classic style" I wish this wasn’t case, because I once found SF to be a much more interesting and engaging place.

    I misspoke when I said “keep it all to himself.” I just find it frustrating sometimes when I see these posts of beautifully made bespoke clothing from tailors that I would be very interested in trying yet cannot because they are not named. I understand and respect it if a tailor specifically ask his clients not to share his name, but I have seen situations in the past when this reason is not mentioned. I for one have the means and the genuine interest to try these tailors and I would only ask questions about them with the genuine intent of using their services. At the same time I am very thankful to those who have posted or shared with me the tailors and artisans that they have used.

    -LR
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    "Can you tell me who is your tailor?"

    "It depends. I can't discuss that at this time."

    "Depends on what?"

    "I can't discuss that at this time."

    "Well I want this jacket in this color by this tailor."

    "I have to check with Naples. In the meantime, can I interest you in these other tailors we have here?"
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
    4 people like this.
  6. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    Is the desired jacket colour "70s wash"?

    let's go down the rabbit hole
     
  7. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    Thanks for posting this, Gaz. Let's all question less and appreciate more. Keep it up! Grazie. Dov'è il bagno?
     
  8. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    It's nice to see that you have moderated your tone considerably.

    The "absurd consequences" that Mr. Corbera refers to are, unfortunately, all too real. And the reasons that have been provided should be enough to satisfy you. I can assure you that I have found many posters on here who are willing to share information, even information that is not provided as openly on the forum, if you get to know them a little bit. But publicly crowing about your tailor to a large and anonymous audience, one that has proven in the past that it can't handle good information responsibly, is not a very good idea.

    I have gotten to know several SF members personally and found them to be more than open and willing to share their experiences, and their expertise. The OP of this thread included. But they're not just going to openly put it on the forum, particularly when they are insulted for not doing so.
     
  9. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Man, I missed this thread... Awesome stuff. Supremely impressed by the 4 simultaneous commissions from Rubinacci and how they worked so quickly. Cheers and happy bespoking.
     
  10. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Si.


    It was cold.


    Wished you post again. :)


    OMG! We agreed on something!!!


    Andate a sinistra, a destra, dritto e giù per le scale. L'uomo indossa una corta giacca di tweed vi aiuterà.
     
  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I can't believed there is no picture update of the finished garments......
     
  12. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    Sorry to bump in, but the idea that fresco is a rather informal cloth and for summer, seems a little narrow from a historical point of view. David Graham of Smith Woollens once told me that their fresco (Finimeresco) was quite popular for dinner dress and balls in the 1950s and 60s because of breathability and flexibility when dancing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2012
  13. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Great to see some interesting views on the casualness of fresco and the whole secret tailor nonsense. If you dislike the secret tailor issue, sorry to disappoint as I am about to introduce another.

    Day 2, Florence


    [​IMG]

    Colourful old buildings...

    [​IMG]

    ... steeped in history and ...

    [​IMG]

    ...public nudity.



    Pity that during our visit, the weather was terrible. It drizzled when we arrived from Rome and we managed to catch a break in the rain as we made our way to the Panerai boutique. While we were there, it began to pour. ​


    [​IMG]


    ALL PHOTOS ABOVE ARE FROM PREVIOUS TRIPS TO FLORENCE​


    Patrizia, the Panerai boutique manager, was kind enough to have bought us a couple of rain coats from street vendors, and we made our way to see Antonio and Taka over at Liverano. Maomao was there for one, or was it two fittings. I forget and besides I had completed my initial order from Liverano. I won't add to the already plentiful photos of the Liverano & Liverano atelier. Instead, here's a few of my previous items which I received via the Armoury.​


    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    These are autumn / winter wear. Photos courtesy of Ethan @ the Armoury.​


    After the fittings, we did a little shopping and then it was time for lunch with Antonio and Taka. No photos because we were talking secret men's business.

    After lunch, we visited Fukaya-san of il micio.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Camel skin derby... perhaps the next order.

    [​IMG]

    A whole cut that is a little too funky.

    [​IMG]

    We also met our secret tailor there...

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    ...who made this particular solaro suit for Fukaya-san.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    We headed back to his atelier where he had recently moved his operations to a three bedroom apartment. Business has been good for him. Previously, he worked out of his small one bedroom apartment. Believe it or not, this is a one-person operation.

    [​IMG]

    A charcoal sharksin suit, which I orginally ordered in late 2010. This was my third fitting. I am expecting delivery in late August.

    [​IMG]

    Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed. Also ordered in late 2010.

    [​IMG]

    Holland and Sherry something or rather, summer weight. Apparently its vintage. This one will hopefully be ready in November. My seasonal cylce is out of whack!

    [​IMG]

    A better representation of the colour and subtle patterns.


    It took little convincing for Maomao to give this secret tailor a try.


    [​IMG]

    And according to the sartorial wisdom of Mao, the first order of any new bespoke tailor should consist of a single breasted jacket and a double breasted jacket of which either has a pair of matching paints. This allows the tailor to have a base pattern for all your future orders. Makes sense if you can afford it.

    Next, day 3, eating in Rome.

    PS can't complaint that the Euro is tanking for the greater sartorial good.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012
    7 people like this.
  14. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I visited Fukaya when I was in Florence a couple of years ago. Really beautiful shoes, but the logistics of a bespoke shoe order in Florence were not there for me. Same for a fantastic new shoemaker I saw in Rome this summer, right next to Marini, which I would also have loved to try.
    I wonder if your Florentine MBT is the same as mine. I got my recommendation from my wife's dressmaker there. I never tried him, though. Like with Fukata, I wasn't spending enough time in Florence to have a suit made (unlike my wife who was willing to make day trips from Rome).
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012
  16. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you should be more adventurous... :)
     
  17. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Thank you for this, Gaz. I don't know why some feel entitled to more information, when everything shared is an unmerited gift. But I'm glad you haven't let them discourage you from posting.
    +1 Cousins and their friends offered to introduce me to craftsmen, but I didn't think there was enough time. Took some pics of Bremer's, Ugolini's and Fukata's shops and posted them in Whnay's helpful thread, Florence Shop List.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Very nice. The H&S Gamekeeper looks exactly like a Robert Noble tweed I have.
     
  19. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Dat lapel roll :drool:
     
  20. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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