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Maomao x Gaz Italian Sartorial Adventure 2012

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gazman70k, May 20, 2012.

  1. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    More of secret Florentine Tailor

    My first commission...

    [​IMG]

    Vintage navy hopsack unlined summer jacket, 3 roll 2, 3 patch pockets

    [​IMG]

    Height of armholes

    [​IMG]

    Dartless front panel

    [​IMG]

    Handwork on shoulder

    [​IMG]

    Finished product.





     
    9 people like this.
  2. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Excellent - what kind of shoes are you wearing in the last picture if you don't mind sharing?
     
  3. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    This thread is porn.
    Thank you so much for sharing!
     
  4. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    bespoke by Hidetaka Fukaya

    Polished, Posed and Photographed by Ethandesu of http://ethandesu.com/
     
    5 people like this.
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    This thread should be tagged on top of the men's clothing page
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  6. gshen

    gshen Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Dude, the MBT made you look like you lost 10kg and went weightlifting. Stick with this man!

    Nice tie, BTW :slayer:
     
  7. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    This is beautiful fabric.


    And these photos are so well done with their perspective by showing the details of the rawer handwork in the "Dartless front panel and then the closeup of the elegance of the finished shoulder. I would guess that these tailors have a great appreciation and knowledge of the fabric they're using and show a light hand by letting the qualities in the fabric dictate how they work with it.

    This is such an enjoyable thread!:cheers:
     
  8. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Is that puckering on the sleevehead acceptable/normal? I ask because a Neapolitan tailor I used in Sydney did it and I thought something was wrongly executed.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Senior member

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    Great thread, thanks for sharing with us..
     
  10. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    +eleventy
     
  11. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    If you mean those horizontal puckerings on the sleeve the answer is "not acceptable": the sleeve is too tight fitting and the sleeve doesn't get the amplitude of the arm..the result?no breath, the sleeve are not well proportioned.
     
  12. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    :hide:
     
  13. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    I think meister is referring to the puckering at the sleevehead where the sleeve meets the shoulder. That is presumably from working a relatively large sleeve into a relatively small armhole and also partly an aesthetic choice about how to execute that. What Musella is referring to would not be so much puckering but wrinkles across the sleeves (not the sleevehead) and they are inescapably a result of the wearer doing some curls at the gym in his clothes before taking this picture.
     
  14. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Isn't that the notorious "spalla camiccia" of Neapolitan fame?
     
  15. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    Gazza!!!

    Absolutely splendid, mate.

    Wear and enjoy in good health.
     
  16. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Puckering is due to sleeves being too narrow. This fellow has a preference for a narrower cut, which is expressed in this manner. As Andrew pointed out, the narrowness manifest as creases along the sleeves. Also, lighter fabrics tend to show more of the puckering than heavier ones.

    Regardless, this was the first jacket made to tailor's house style. Micromanagement at the first instance introduces biases and compromises that a tailor makes to his house cut. Which means subsequent modifications become much more difficult to manage as it blurs, at least for me, what would have been otherwise a different outcome. In this example, only the proportion of the sleeves needs to be changed. I now know the positives and limitations of this particular cut for my physique and have requested more volume for the entire sleeve.

    The take away here is that every decision made on aesthetics has some consequence, ranging from the choice of fabric by the client to the volume of materials used by the tailor. A narrow sleeve will crease no matter the fabric, may it be fresco, mohair or linen but also a fabric like say, linen, will always crease no matter the volume.

    Having said that, this is a favorite jacket and it has been getting lots of use. Whether it is acceptable or not, it's up to the wearer. And for me, it is.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
    5 people like this.
  17. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    Well written and I couldn't agree more. I think it looks great. In this instance, the wrinkles add character and show how much the wearer appreciates his clothes. Too often we forget we're meant to wear the stuff. A coat is not a museum piece.
     
    3 people like this.
  18. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I'm not sure which is more laudable, your tailor or your ability to maintain the same weight over 18 months.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    ^ is the biggest risk of bespoke, a.k.a. the "5 cm" phenomenon around here.

    To wit,

    Hanks (with male Spanx no doubt) early this year in his "Bespoke" (a.k.a. male movie star Haute Couture) Tom Ford . . .

    [​IMG]

    Hank a few weeks ago . . .

    [​IMG]

    - M

    Gaz your MBT has the best interpretation of "house lapels and collar" I have seen. Not the idiosyncratic signature-esque swoops of Liverano, yet perfectly related to the jacket as a whole. Rubinacci's comes close, but not like this guy. It's like he hits the "golden ratio" for lapels and collar on the head! Great eyes. :fonz:
     
  20. incontro

    incontro Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2012

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