Looking for a sport coat (NYC)

[Nitrogen]

Hi!

I'm searching for a quality sports coat/blazer in the lower-medium price range (300-1000 USD) to replace my old worn blazer (picture 1) and would appreciate any suggestions.

Picture 1.

The best I've come up with is Kent Wang, but their selection of fabrics looks quite limited. Spier and Mackay has some pretty cool looking fabrics in their MTM options (picture 2), but I'm a tall, 6'5, heavy build with broad shoulders and a little bit wary of ordering any clothing online.

Picture 2.

While I'd like to have a coat similar to the old one, all the better if I find a place to shop multiple blazers in different styles, perhaps even tweed. Seeing and trying the jackets in person would be preferable, but I'd also like to hear opinions on ordering online from e.g. Spier Mackay.

 

[rjc149]

I’ve read that S&M is a bit of a in terms of adjustments/returns/exchanges, since the clothing is being shipped from overseas and their customer service isn’t one of their strengths.

It’s hard to point you to a “sport coat store” even in NYC— I’m sure someone else can make suggestions aside from going to a department store.

Maybe try one of the S&M coats in your basic measurements and set some of the budget aside for local tailoring.

 

[bicycleradical]

Hi!

I'm searching for a quality sports coat/blazer in the lower-medium price range (300-1000 USD) to replace my old worn blazer (picture 1) and would appreciate any suggestions.

View attachment 1778605
Picture 1.

The best I've come up with is Kent Wang, but their selection of fabrics looks quite limited. Spier and Mackay has some pretty cool looking fabrics in their MTM options (picture 2), but I'm a tall, 6'5, heavy build with broad shoulders and a little bit wary of ordering any clothing online.
View attachment 1778586
Picture 2.

While I'd like to have a coat similar to the old one, all the better if I find a place to shop multiple blazers in different styles, perhaps even tweed. Seeing and trying the jackets in person would be preferable, but I'd also like to hear opinions on ordering online from e.g. Spier Mackay.

The Armoury has a brick and mortar shop in NYC. It is outside of your budget however if you can stretch the number a little, the store may have offerings to your liking.

 

[breakaway01]

at 6'5" you may have a hard time finding something that fits you well off the rack. You will probably do better with custom. At your price point it will be some kind of MTO/MTM that makes adjustments from a standard template ("block pattern"). The key is finding a block pattern that requires the least drastic adjustments to fit you properly.

At your price point you should at least consider Spier and Mackay made-to-order. Start with a RTW jacket in a long size that fits you in the chest. If that RTW jacket is nowhere close to fitting you well, return it for a refund and look elsewhere.

Alternatively, Kent Wang has a custom program with many more fabric choices than the RTW options you see on their website. You might want to contact them directly -- I couldn't find it on their website but I know they definitely offer one (or at least they used to). I think they send you a test jacket as close to your size as they can get it, and then they make adjustments from that based on photos.
Edit: here is a list of fabrics that KW offers (might be outdated but at least you can get an idea):

Suit fabric

www.kentwang.com

 

[dieworkwear]

As others have noted, you will be a hard fit at 6'5". I recently helped a friend rebuild his professional wardrobe. He's 6'2" and we had to go MTM.

At 6'5", you might even have to go bespoke.

Every MTM company starts with a block pattern, which is their template off which they adjust each client's personalized pattern. A pattern can only be manipulated so much before someone has to draft a new pattern.

I'm leery of MTM programs that don't have try-on suits. A try-on suit is a ready-made garment in the company's block pattern. When you try on a try-on suit, you and the fitter can see whether you're within batting range of the block pattern. You can also easily judge whether you like the silhouette before ordering. Try-on suits lower the risk for the customer, and they can serve as an additional fitting (sort of) in the typical one-fitting process of MTM.

But at 6'5", you will not find anyone with a try on suit that works for you. So you will be going into the process blind.

For sub-$1000, and in New York City, I would wait for I Sarti Italiani's next visit. They are based in Sicily and do a soft-shouldered, semi-drape style that I think flatters a lot of people. They are bespoke (for the most part). They do use block patterns, and plot new patterns using digital technology. However, many bespoke houses nowadays use block patterns (theoretically, they are supposed to draft a new one from scratch if necessary). They also include a little less handwork, such as in the chest padding.

I wrote about them here:

Shears and Needles: A Thread About New Tailors

Tranquil House [Seoul] also previously mentioned:

www.styleforum.net

There is also a thread about them here

the profoundly unofficial I Sarti Italiani thread

A number of people (@dieworkwear , @UrbanComposition , @Mr. Six , @emptym, @Crispyj , @ThinkDerm , @Andy57 ) on SF have commissioned garments from Sicily's I Sarti Italiani , who was coming to the US ~2x a year before Covid. It seems that the US may open its borders to vaccinated individuals...

www.styleforum.net

The CMT price for a sport coat is 850 euros (may have gone up, but it's roughly around there). You can expect to pay about $200 to $300 for fabric, depending on what you want. This puts you a little outside of your budget, but given your height, I think it may be a good option. You will also be fitted in person by a tailor.

I Sarti Italani will be back in NYC in October.

 

[Nitrogen]

Thanks everyone for good advice!

I am starting to think I might have to increase the price range to ~1500 USD. I will certainly pay a visit to the Armoury, but I'm not sure what are my chances of finding anything off the rack. Does anyone know what would be the price range for finding any entry level MTM/Bespoke that would fit my needs in NYC?

I will certainly look into I Sarti Italiani!

 

[DapperPhilly]

Hi!

I'm searching for a quality sports coat/blazer in the lower-medium price range (300-1000 USD) to replace my old worn blazer (picture 1) and would appreciate any suggestions.

View attachment 1778605
Picture 1.

The best I've come up with is Kent Wang, but their selection of fabrics looks quite limited. Spier and Mackay has some pretty cool looking fabrics in their MTM options (picture 2), but I'm a tall, 6'5, heavy build with broad shoulders and a little bit wary of ordering any clothing online.
View attachment 1778586
Picture 2.

While I'd like to have a coat similar to the old one, all the better if I find a place to shop multiple blazers in different styles, perhaps even tweed. Seeing and trying the jackets in person would be preferable, but I'd also like to hear opinions on ordering online from e.g. Spier Mackay.

I've had good experience with S&M both OTR and MTO. However I would caution, MTO there are no returns.
Your size makes OTR difficult imo.

 

[Nitrogen]

I Sarti Italani will be back in NYC in October.

Is there a place where I can find information of their next visit?

 

[Nitrogen]

I've had good experience with S&M both OTR and MTO. However I would caution, MTO there are no returns.
Your size makes OTR difficult imo.

Might give their OTR clothes a try and see if it makes sense to proceed to MTO.

 

[dieworkwear]

Is there a place where I can find information of their next visit?

Someone will post their trunk show schedule on the I Sarti thread when it's announced. You can follow that thread. Alternatively, you can email the company and ask to be notified when they announce their next trunk show schedule. The next visit should be sometime in October, but I don't believe they've bought tickets yet, so I don't know the exact dates.

the profoundly unofficial I Sarti Italiani thread

A number of people (@dieworkwear , @UrbanComposition , @Mr. Six , @emptym, @Crispyj , @ThinkDerm , @Andy57 ) on SF have commissioned garments from Sicily's I Sarti Italiani , who was coming to the US ~2x a year before Covid. It seems that the US may open its borders to vaccinated individuals...

www.styleforum.net

 

[dieworkwear]

For the OP, two other options:

1. Divij Bespoke: This company is based in Southern California, but they do trunk shows across the US several times per year. I believe they visit NYC. The company has a flexible house style adn can make a range of things. From what I've seen, their default is a little more padded through the shoulder than I Sarti Italiani. The clothes are made in Hong Kong.

The company used to be called MyTailor, but is now Divij Bespoke because it's under new ownership. It's currently being run by the son of the former owner (the son's name is Divij). The things I've seen from them are very good. Prices are surprisingly low for custom tailoring. You may want to contact them

2. WW Chan: This Hong Kong firm visits NYC a few times per year. They are also flexible in terms of house style, but generally make a slightly soft coat nowadays. Back in the day, they used to be the go-to recommendation for people who were interested in affordable bespoke. I don't know their current prices, but you can email them to check.

When you go with a bespoke tailor, you stand a better chance of not being pegged to a block pattern that may or may not work for you. However, it's also important to note that bespoke is not always a perfect solution. Sometimes bespoke also goes awry, even with good tailors, so calibrate your expectations.

 

[Nitrogen]

Thanks! I'm really grateful for all the advice.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I have a super long list of MTM makers in NYC here. Prices are sorted roughly by suit price, so like... idk, subtract 20%.

Kent Wang has a *buttload* of fabrics in store. Are you looking online or what?

You could go with Jason at Mad King George, I feel like he'd have something for you.

Hall Madden can probably also accomodate you.

 

[Enzo007]

Rothmans at union square

 

[classicalthunde]

1. Divij Bespoke: This company is based in Southern California, but they do trunk shows across the US several times per year. I believe they visit NYC. The company has a flexible house style adn can make a range of things. From what I've seen, their default is a little more padded through the shoulder than I Sarti Italiani. The clothes are made in Hong Kong.

The company used to be called MyTailor, but is now Divij Bespoke because it's under new ownership. It's currently being run by the son of the former owner (the son's name is Divij). The things I've seen from them are very good. Prices are surprisingly low for custom tailoring. You may want to contact them

I've used Divij Bespoke and have been happy with my really happy with my orders. They do a nice middle of the road house style by default, but can customize pretty much anything as well.

Three things I like about Divij Bespoke:

1. They offer an additional basted fitting for an upcharge (I think $400) which helps lock down the fit for the first commission (which is always my worry with going to a new company).

2. They offer fabric from all of the top of the line merchants/mills...some of the other MTM shops I've used had no-name fabrics that weren't very good, or had a significant upcharge (like an extra $500-1000 for an upgrade to basic VBC cloth)

3. They do quality work at a very competitive price. Its not going to be done to the level of a top Savile Row firm, but 99% of people will not be able to tell the difference.