Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[T4phage]



New Bespoke sample shoes in the works by Il Quadrifoglio:

Plaintoe Derby in faux-Carpincho Suede & Seemless Wholecut in D. Brown calf

Stay tuned for more pics of the new samples!

beautifully
clean

 

[T4phage]



Nah, its textured (cow) suede. Looks great though, I say 90% like the real thing It`s also available in olive.

Other than Qnai-san, I`ve seen Ugolini, Spigola, and Il Micio offer the same leather as well. I assume they are readily available in Italy.

would you
know why
they prefer
to use this
instead of
the real
thing
??

I was told
it is difficult
to work with
and utmost
care has
to be taken
like for
kid goat

also teh skins
are full of scars
so great care
has to be taken
when cutting
the pattern

here are
real carpincho
suede
from meccariello

 

[nutcracker]



would you
know why
they prefer
to use this
instead of
the real
thing
??

I was told
it is difficult
to work with
and utmost
care has
to be taken
like for
kid goat

also teh skins
are full of scars
so great care
has to be taken
when cutting
the pattern

here are
real carpincho
suede
from meccariello

Very nice Meccariello!

I assume real Carpincho`s (or quality ones) are very difficult to come by in Japan. I`ve never seen them offered by any maker here.

 

[PCK1]

My understanding is that it is pretty rare to come by in general...not just in Japan...especially dyed in certain colors...

 

[rexet]

I just found this picture on the Yohei Fukuda website... what a gorgeous pair of boots!
After having done some search I found this topic. Great cause I really want to learn more about japanese shoe makers!

 

[barky]

I just found this picture on the Yohei Fukuda website... what a gorgeous pair of boots!
After having done some search I found this topic. Great cause I really want to learn more about japanese shoe makers!

You better stop now or before you know it, you're on the slippery slope to Japanese bespoke. This thread is full of shoes that will make you **** in your pants.

 

[rexet]

Yeah I think I'm gonna unsubscribe... in a couple of days... I promise
I just got a mail from Yohei Fukuda answering my questions about it works. It really makes want to go to Japan!

 

[VRaivio]

I've typed this before but I'll type it again: I believe the Japanese have overcome their European masters. They make the most beautiful, ornate and highest quality shoes available in our era. Nutcracker could explain us all why -- is it just because they spend more hours making each last and pair than the Europeans?

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

I think it is inherent in the culture, that the Japanese strive for perfection, in whatever they are undertaking. It is something I have always highly respected about the culture...

 

[DWFII]



I've typed this before but I'll type it again: I believe the Japanese have overcome their European masters. They make the most beautiful, ornate and highest quality shoes available in our era. Nutcracker could explain us all why -- is it just because they spend more hours making each last and pair than the Europeans?

Several comments, v...

First, I think you are right to some extent. But ask yourself how many Japanese manufacturers are there? One? None?

What most people here think of, when they think of European shoes, is RTW and mass production. As far as I can see, most if not all the Japanese makers are bespoke. Compare the Japanese masters to someone like Anthony Delos or Jan Petter Myhre, and I suspect that the difference and perceived advantage diminishes greatly.

Also if RTW work is the standard in Europe and that standard is what everyone expects, it is much harder to work to a higher standard for European bespoke makers simply because no one values or wants to pay for the "presentation" work.

And a lot of what distinguishes the Japanese work is superficial--"presentation." The shine all over the shoes is beautiful but not only is it temporary, it can actually end up making the shoe look a bit tawdry in the initial days of wear because a lot of that shine/wax will flake off.

Similarly with the ornamental scoring on the bottoms. It looks nice..maybe more because it is novel than for any other reason...but it's gone tomorrow.

To some extent, I think ...my opinion only...the old adage "less is more" applies here. There is a sentiment that the leather should speak for itself among good European makers--a minimalism that prefers finesse. The Austro-Hungarian school notwithstanding.

Don't get me wrong...I admire the Japanese makers immensely (and there seems to be more of them to admire) but perhaps it's a little different philosophy.

Having said that, the underlying reason an individual makes shoes--the philosophy that guides his hands and informs his work--is everything. At one critical level the choice is stark--you have to decide whether to make money or make shoes, because you can't do both. You can't serve two masters.

--

 

[nutcracker]



Several comments, v...

--

Thanks for your insight DW. Japan does have a sizeable RTW shoes industry, some actually make quite lovely shoes. Regal is probably the largest local maker of RTW welted shoes with about 1 mil pairs output / year.

I really think it`s regrettable that the pictures are the only medium for most of us to see Japanese shoes, and a lot of the ornate shoes posted on the thread probably reflects my taste more than anything!
There`s really a lot of fascinating shoemakers to meet in Japan. Perhaps one day I can host your travel here

 

[nutcracker]

Talking about an ornamental sole

Il Quadrifoglio by Atsushi Qnai
Burgundy Croc Tassel Loafer

 

[DWFII]



Thanks for your insight DW. Japan does have a sizeable RTW shoes industry, some actually make quite lovely shoes. Regal is probably the largest local maker of RTW welted shoes with about 1 mil pairs output / year.

I really think it`s regrettable that the pictures are the only medium for most of us to see Japanese shoes, and a lot of the ornate shoes posted on the thread probably reflects my taste more than anything!
There`s really a lot of fascinating shoemakers to meet in Japan. Perhaps one day I can host your travel here

Really! I have never heard of them. Which kind of underscores my point--we seem to be comparing...here on SF--Japanese bespoke makers to European manufacturers. I admire the Japanese makers that I see here esp. because they are bespoke makers and I am a bespoke maker. I know or have intimations of what it takes to do that kind of work.

PS: the waist work on the "gator" slip-ons above is gorgeous..and I have no real idea how they achieved that effect.

 

[bengal-stripe]



PS: the waist work on the "gator" slip-ons above is gorgeous..and I have no real idea how they achieved that effect.

Probably milk and ammonia, which used to be a very popular technique for a cloudy, marbled stain.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Talking about an ornamental sole

Il Quadrifoglio by Atsushi Qnai
Burgundy Croc Tassel Loafer

Amazing pair.