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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    For Marquess, I've gone through two pairs of trial shoes and one final pair on a round last, and two pairs of trial shoes before the final chisel pair you see here. It's bespoke.

    The pair from Yanagimachi is a MTO on a last partly based off of my feet. (I contacted him some year and a half ago to discuss arranging pattern order fairs in Europe, and what's happening, including this last, is a product of that.)
    It's been generalised though, so it's definitely not bespoke, but very close.

    Fit wise they're both better than anything I've had before, but the Marquess is beyond my wet dreams. It's not a fair comparison though.

    The leather is great on both, but the old stock Freudenberg is smoother and slightly nicer I think. The styles are different, giving off different vibes. Not being a craftsman myself, I'm unable to see the making of one being better than the other. I do however love that Marquess waist and heel.

    Intend to stick to Marquess for formal shoes in the future, while I want a George boot or ptb from Yanagimachi.

    Didn't you have a pair of nice boots from Brass? Ordered a pair of those too. Black latigo with the slight heel they offer! /nvm, that was someone else.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  2. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    Stefan,

    Thanks a lot for the info!

    The reason I asked is because when I was in hiro's workshop - I was pleasantly surprised to know that the international last (which I guess is based on your feet) is a perfect fit for me. I originally went there on a whim because his japanese last never fit me. However, after trying on his new last for almost 1 hour (while discussing leather, options, lasts, etc) I had zero fit issues whatsoever and hiro concluded that I need no adjustment whatsoever (not even insole adjustments that he normally does- he was also really surprised.)

    Didn't pull the trigger because I was considering a few other shoemakers at the time. This means however, that if I were to go with this new last, the cost would be considerably less!

    He did mention that he was also still working on a loafer last and was still doing fit surveys across the world.

    I just hope that he won't adjust the international last!

    Am seriously considering one of his ghillies in round toe shape. Not a big fan of his chiseled last.

    But if this ever moves forward I'm going to have to buy you a beer for developing that last with him hahaha

    What size are you btw?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Those are really beautiful.
    I'm pleased to hear that the last isn't off on everyone. We had big luck with the last in Norway.

    I wear his size 10 with a fitting pieces over the little toe, an done on the heel. The curve of his last went a bit too sharp into my heel, so needed a slight adjustment.

    He has these pattern order fairs every now and then, with a further reduced price. Was very tempted to order his plan toe derby when I visited ;D
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Excellent tally of fine Japanese be spokes Stefan! :fonz:
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
  5. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    The question is...when will more Japanese makers visit America?

    Right now I think the only one visiting is Koji Suzuki.

    I would really like to work with Yohei Fukuda as well...I really like the British formality of some of his classic styles in his bespoke samples.
     
  6. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Trips to Tokyo are cheap these days! 750$ or so?
    Oh, and I believe Hiro Yanagimachi will be visiting Leffot for pattern order fairs .
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
  7. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    There's that strange term again...pattern order. I've seen it used only by Japanese makers and merchants. Whatever does it mean?
     
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    non-bespoke - simply choosing which pattern you want.
     
  9. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Bad influence I guess.
    It is a bit different than a normal trunk show though.

    Hiro Yanagimachi does this in various stores in Japan. He brings 5 samples, 5 leathers (or more/less I guess), specific sole types, and customers can order these models within the variations offered at a discounted price. I believe you can also order other models in other leathers and specifications, but then the price is slightly higher.

    Hiro Yanagimachis pattern order fairs (at least the ones I've read about and visited) were square waist (machine stitched sole).

    By these constraints on orders, one would suppose they can make the pairs more effectively, hence offering a lower price.
    Prices in europe/us would be a bit higher though. Cost of traveling and what not.

    Oh, and as @ThinkDerm wrote, you buy a pair like it is. May be possible to have slight modifications on last to accommodate for high instep or sensitive little toes and such. Sometimes you can also pay to add a medallion or simply remove.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  10. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Some more pics from my visit at Clematis. A report and even more pics on my blog.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    10 people like this.
  11. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Great!

    really enjoyed the blog post!
     
  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    + 1
     
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    clematis sold by Liverano in Firenze. Largest size is a 9UK
     
  14. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Thanks a lot!



    Is it the new RTW line, or the older loafer range? I know the Liverano people are good friends of Keitaro, and think they visited him just the other week or so.
     
  15. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  16. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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  17. manasdirge

    manasdirge Senior member

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    Hi all, I am wondering if there is a Japan brand that offers smaller sizes (I wear UK5/5.5) on lasts based on asian foot (have narrow heel and relatively low instep here)? prefer RTW shoes available online.

    I have found one brand "ファクトリーの一つ 宮城興業" (giardino) on yahoo but I don't know anything about their quality/fit, anyone has a clue?

    http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x418858366?u=;giardino_da_1941

    Thanks in advance.
     
  18. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    The brand is called Miyagi Kogyo. It's available many places in Japan, but I've never looked for then online. Can't help with fit as they didn't stock my size anywhere.

    Another would be Sanyo Yamacho that looks very nice. I also thought a brand called Perfetto looked great. They stock at least Miyagi Kogyo and Perfetto at World Footwear Gallery. Maybe if you send them an email, they'll be able to help you and ship the shoes out. Not sure, though.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Miyagi Kogyo's shoes looked really nice for the price (as many Japanese RTW do). Don't know either if there's any online retailer. The shoes from Miyagi Kogyo that World Footwear Gallery carries are having a higher specification, thus higher price, than the regular MK shoes, just so you know. Those looks really great though.

    A part from Sanyo Yamacho and Perfetto that Stefan mentions Central Shoes is also very nice, but the brand I think I was most impressed with was Otsuka and especially their better range (they make the shoes for Sanyo Yamacho as well, and the price is even better on their own range since). They have an online shop, though it's only in Japanese.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2015
  20. manasdirge

    manasdirge Senior member

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    Thanks for the kind and informative replies gentlemen[​IMG]! will search with the key words you have provided and see what I can get!
     

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