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Jacket - correct seam?

bimmer888

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Hello,
I had a jacket made several months ago and when comparing to my other bespoke jackets noticed a seam that runs from the chest through the front of the pocket to the bottom of the jacket - not along the back as with the (5) others. Is this correct or just a bit of "artistic variance"?

thanks in advance
 

SirGrotius

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No seam in the back? I don't understand how this can be bespoke. It looks like a faulty MTM to me.

Maybe I'm missing the obvious though. I'm not used to seeing a seam in the front!
 

bimmer888

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Hi SirGrotius,
thanks for your response - there is a seam in the back of the jacket - i meant along the waist where the vent is cut.

still doesn't stack up for me though, it took me awhile to notice but now it is screaming out - never seen anything else like it.

best regards,
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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A dart on the front is normal, but it usually ends at the pocket. The underarm dart can be carried down to the bottom to create a side-body, but carrying the front dart so low looks strange. From the pic it looks like it doesn't quite go all the way to the hem? Looks like there's a pucker where the dart ends a few inches from the hem. I don't know what you mean by 'along the back'? Are you saying this coat has no center back seam? This is not unheard of, I'm sure Vox has posted some pics of a coat he has with no center back seam, but this is still pretty rare.
Originally Posted by bimmer888
Hi SirGrotius, thanks for your response - there is a seam in the back of the jacket - i meant along the waist where the vent is cut.
Oh, you don't mean center back... you mean the side seam? I assume the coat is side-vented? And there is no seam from the top of the vent to the armscye? Very odd....
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Well, oddly enough I just noticed there is a new thread on the Tailor & Cutter Forum about the "Neapolitan Dart", a front dart carried all the way to the hem.
 

a tailor

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the dart looks as thought it reaches the shoulder. or at least very high.
but bringing it down to the bottom of the jacket is an accepted method.
 

Despos

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Just figured out that your picture is upside down. The front dart extending to the hem is a style of cutting. No issue there. The other seam is running from the armhole to the pocket. This is a one piece front, no side body. This is also a common way to cut. try rotating the picture so it is easier to comprehend.
 

Despos

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I flipped the picture
 

bimmer888

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Here is a more oriented picture for some perspective (albeit a bit wrinkled from the day's wear)

thanks for the replies - great info
 

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