J. Press - don't get it

[Sprezzatura2010]

I went into Press for the first time last week, and I have to say I didn't get the place. Expensive shirts with plastic buttons and fused suits/jackets with shelf-like 1980s shoulders are "traditional Ivy League?"

Not everything was bad, mind. Their contrasting-edge linen pocket squares are nice. Their shoes aren't overpriced. I suppose if one wears sock garters, he would like to be able to buy Albert Thurston ones locally. The suits are inexpensive, though that's because of the construction quality. But overall I didn't see any reason to seek them out. As opposed to, say, Paul Stuart, where I always stop whenever I'm in NYC.

Not to say the staff wasn't quite nice, and they actually knew things. They could tell me their shoes were made by Sanders, for instance. Though a comment about the sales rack (something to the effect of "like most WASPs, we have a nasty habit of leaving a box in the corner and finding it several years later&quot was off-putting and even somewhat offensive. Shouldn't they be adopting Japanese habits?

 

[LabelKing]

What are Japanese habits?

 

[Sprezzatura2010]

No idea. But the whole "look at how WASP-y" we are thing, actually using the acronym "WASP" and referring to their style as "Ivy League" as part of the sales pitch, is amusing.

Oh, I should also mention that they take vanity sizing to a new level. I wear a pretty big shirt. In most brands I'm a 41L/16.5-35. That's a legitimate large, perhaps XL. But at Press that's a medium. Except for the sleeves, which are too short.

 

[blackbowtie]

I never liked J. Press - my impression has been that the clothes seem to be made for oversized, shapeless males. I also can't stand the obsession with single-vented jackets.

But I agree that their contrasting-edge linen pocket squares are really nice.

 

[instep]

Well, now you know why 'trad' rhymes with 'sad'.

 

[maomao1980]

Does the Japanese own all of J.Press or just the Japan business? The stock is very different in Japan, some nice stuff although quality is just so so.

 

[mack11211]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Does the Japanese own all of J.Press or just the Japan business? The stock is very different in Japan, some nice stuff although quality is just so so.
The Japanese own the whole enterprise. The US operation is just the tail of the dog. Press today, also note, has three levels of make, the top being full canvas. But the shoulder is the same. My vintage Press from the 50s has a much softer shoulder. Current Press is trying to be both trad and inexpensive. But for this little money, it's hard to get the details right.

 

[porcelain monkey]

I think Press, like BB is a shadow of what it once was. I am not quite old enough to know what it once was first hand, but like many places I imagine a better quality and more consistent style - all supported by a loyal clientele. Anyway, some of their ties are still nice.

 

[TheFoo]

Some of the people who work there can have a bit of an attitude, but most are pretty nice in my experience. The WASP comment sounds very off-putting, but it's not all that surprising to me, either.

What you get at Press that you don't get at Paul Stuart is far superior style. Paul Staurt stuff is nicer in quality (and even more overpriced in my opinion), but it all aims to appear 'luxurious'. So, while there is both a J. Press and Paul Stuart 'look', I find the former much more elemental and classic. You can wear bits and ends from J. Press without having them look out of place; you could wear the whole J. Press kit and not automatically look like a store mannequin. I don't think you can say the same about Paul Stuart.

 

[cipofan]

I agree with mafoofan. I find J Press ties, socks and pocket squares to be pretty nice and have yet to find any suiting that "suits" me. having said that, I think the DC JP staff are all knowledgable, friendly and engaging and a pleasure to deal with.

 

[Sprezzatura2010]

Originally Posted by mack11211

Press today, also note, has three levels of make, the top being full canvas. But the shoulder is the same.

I saw three levels of make, but all were fused.

Originally Posted by mack11211

Current Press is trying to be both trad and inexpensive. But for this little money, it's hard to get the details right.

True, I was expecting the store to be much more expensive given the reputation, real estate prices where their stores are located, and the Aaron Sorkin subplot in one of the episodes of "SportsNight" about a white J. Press shirt.

Also, by comparison to the dross at the Pink store in the Mayflower, Press looks great in terms of quality. While I've never owned one or looked too hard at them, I thought Thomas Pink used to make a decent, if not stellar, shirt. There was nothing I saw to distinguish their current offerings from Banana Republic's at a third the price.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What you get at Press that you don't get at Paul Stuart is far superior style. Paul Staurt stuff is nicer in quality (and even more overpriced in my opinion), but it all aims to appear 'luxurious'. So, while there is both a J. Press and Paul Stuart 'look', I find the former much more elemental and classic. You can wear bits and ends from J. Press without having them look out of place; you could wear the whole J. Press kit and not automatically look like a store mannequin. I don't think you can say the same about Paul Stuart.

I guess we have to agree to disagree here. There are elements of Press's offerings that are quite nice, but overall their style is not mine. Or yours, apparently, as you seem to be a Rubinacci/BB/Alden guy.

Also, in general despite a few off-puttingly snobby comments - why talk so much about being WASPs to a brown guy? - I found the knowledge of the DC staff very high. They actually knew the products they were selling. That is appallingly rare today. The gentleman who used to work at Ralph Lauren, in particular, was very nice.

 

[DocHolliday]

I've found the overt WASP thing at Trad stores other than Press. I suppose they figure that's what they're selling, and if you're in there, that's what you're buying. I find it kinda offputting, in that it often seems a bit artificial/forced, but I guess it gives them a niche many men's stores lack.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by porcelain monkey

I think Press, like BB is a shadow of what it once was. I am not quite old enough to know what it once was first hand, but like many places I imagine a better quality and more consistent style - all supported by a loyal clientele. Anyway, some of their ties are still nice.

This really is a Press strength. If not for Sam Hober, I would be buying a lot more ties at Press.

 

[AldenPyle]

The khakis are great.

They have a lot of cool emblematic ties (would be better if skinnier).

The top line of suits are half canvassed by Southwick. Have about the same shoulder as other Southwick, I think.

 

[EBTX66]

I found a suit on sale on their website and decided to order it. I've never been to any of their stores but had always heard the name so I thought it might be nice to "splurge" (I'm a dedicated purchaser of SF thrifted/used items) and buy a classic piece that would last a lifetime. The ordering process was a nightmare: it took weeks to get and for a while there the lady who I spoke to on the phone didn't even know if they actually had one left in my size, even though the website took my order. I read up on them in here and on AAF and many of their fans said that low-tech approach was part of their charm. Okay...

Anyway, the suit finally arrived and was packaged nicely. However, it is one of the cheapest, stiffest suits I own. I have some HSM and Cremieux from my pre-SF days and they are far superior in feel and construction. Also, per their policy, clearance suits cannot be returned.

It's pretty ironic that one of my most expensive suits pales in comparison to the used, but gorgeous, $90 Zegna hanging right next to it.