J&J Minnis Flannel

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by nmoraitis

Does anyone have any thoughts on the following flannel?

http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/ha...tki=168472344?

I will be commissioning my first of several trousers next year, and thought this might be an excellent candidate for a medium gray flannel trouser. It comes in two weights MID RANGE 13/14ozs 400g and HEAVYWEIGHT 15/16ozs 475g. Also, any thoughts on the weight would be appreciated. I am leaning towards the 15/16 oz as I live in Ontario and it can get extremely cold in the winter.
I have the mid range in the lightest gray flannel from that book. It is my favorite pant.

 

[Roger]

Originally Posted by Will

Minnis flannels are first class, however Minnis prices to consumers border on the ludicrously high compared to what the trade pays.
The price listed here is 75 GBP/m. I paid 70 for H&S flannel from their Viceroy book, and it's possibly a little higher now. About what would tailors pay for similar fabrics? And would your advice be to buy it as part of the tailoring project--i.e., just buy it from the tailor when he or she makes the trousers? I've generally purchased fabrics (cotton shirtings and wool) separately because of being able to be sure I could get what I wanted (in case the tailor or shirtmaker didn't have an account with the supplier), and because of the assumption that the tailor or shirtmaker will add in a profit on the cloth anyway, bringing it up to the same price as I would pay buying it myself.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Roger

The price listed here is 75 GBP/m. I paid 70 for H&S flannel from their Viceroy book, and it's possibly a little higher now. About what would tailors pay for similar fabrics? And would your advice be to buy it as part of the tailoring project--i.e., just buy it from the tailor when he or she makes the trousers? I've generally purchased fabrics (cotton shirtings and wool) separately because of being able to be sure I could get what I wanted (in case the tailor or shirtmaker didn't have an account with the supplier), and because of the assumption that the tailor or shirtmaker will add in a profit on the cloth anyway, bringing it up to the same price as I would pay buying it myself.

It usually, though not always, costs more to provide cloth even when the cost per meter is the same. A tailor buys the smallest amount that he usually needs, and gets more if his scissors slip. When we provide cloth, he asks for the most he might need, just in case. So there's quite a bit of waste, amounting to perhaps a meter for a two piece suit.

In addition, the tailor pays half of Minnis' web prices and, though policies vary, often charges the same for his service whether or not he provides cloth, or marks it up less than does Minnis.

The only time providing cloth makes sense is when you have a piece he can't get. But anyone can get Minnis or H&S.

 

[Roger]

Originally Posted by Will

It usually, though not always, costs more to provide cloth even when the cost per meter is the same. A tailor buys the smallest amount that he usually needs, and gets more if his scissors slip. When we provide cloth, he asks for the most he might need, just in case. So there's quite a bit of waste, amounting to perhaps a meter for a two piece suit.

In addition, the tailor pays half of Minnis' web prices and, though policies vary, often charges the same for his service whether or not he provides cloth, or marks it up less than does Minnis.

The only time providing cloth makes sense is when you have a piece he can't get. But anyone can get Minnis or H&S.
Good advice, I'm sure, Will. Just out of curiosity, how would you rank-order the various flannels such as the H&S (both worsted and woollen Viceroy), Minnis, Scabal, Fox....?

 

[T4phage]

I really am wondering about the current profusion of thin blooded people nowadays. 16oz flannel for workwear? Do these people work outdoors or are their offices not heated? 22oz tweed sportscoats?? I have that 22oz fabric from Teviotex that is being bandied around (although the one with the hints of aubergine), and it is a real stretch of the imagination to claim that it has a 'soft' handle!! It would make for a great outercoat, but a sportscoat that you wear indoors??

btw, I live in Holland, and the bitter winter winds from the North sea cuts like a knife.. but not indoors!

 

[nmoraitis]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I will follow the suggestion made by several members and buy both the mid and heavy weight fabric. There are so many situations to wear grey that I think I will get use out of both of them.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Roger

Good advice, I'm sure, Will. Just out of curiosity, how would you rank-order the various flannels such as the H&S (both worsted and woollen Viceroy), Minnis, Scabal, Fox....?

Minnis and Fox, then H&S and Scabal. Caveat, I don't own any H&S worsted flannel nor any Scabal.

The H&S woolen flannel with cashmere doesn't hold a crease in my experience.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by T4phage

I live in Holland, and the bitter winter winds from the North sea cuts like a knife..
Ya, a butter knife. When Chicago goes arctic and the Hawk kicks up, it's like razor blades.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by Will

Minnis and Fox, then H&S and Scabal. Caveat, I don't own any H&S worsted flannel nor any Scabal.

The H&S woolen flannel with cashmere doesn't hold a crease in my experience.

Some would say part of the charm of a flannel suit is the absence of a trouser crease.

 

[T4phage]

Originally Posted by Tomasso

Ya, a butter knife. When Chicago goes arctic and the Hawk kicks up, it's like razor blades.

Ahh, yes, that is why Chicago is home to the inventors of heavyweight wool overcoatings, thick dense fisherman's sweaters, etc!

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by T4phage

Ahh, yes, that is why Chicago is home to the inventors of heavyweight wool overcoatings, thick dense fisherman's sweaters, etc!

Just mild sea breezes, phage. Tomasso has it right for winters here. I just wish I had a movie of people being blown across the street.

 

[dopey]

. . .

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by yachtie

Just mild sea breezes, phage. Tomasso has it right for winters here. I just wish I had a movie of people being blown across the street.

Walking down Michigan Avenue near the Water Tower years ago I was literally chased for a city block by a 4x8 sheet of plywood.