How should a dress shoe fit?

[Mark Stone]

Hi guys,

After over 2 years of drooling over Allen Edmonds Strand, I am about to pull the trigger tomorrow.

This is my first pair of real shoes. I found a retailer here in Montreal and went to see them in person. I tried on a pair and I am officially blown away by their beauty. An old man who was trying on another dress shoe, walked over to me and asked me which ones they were, and complimented them. Then a woman with her mother smiled and made a comment about how good they looked. The salesman was laughing "need I say more?".

Anyways, I know I have slightly wider feet than average. If I wear an Adidas shell-top for 6 months, the shoe tends look stretched at the widest area.

Knowing this, I really wanted to make sure I got the correct width on these since they are really expensive (for me).

When I tried them on my first impression was that they are extremely comfortable. As I expected, they were a bit snug at the widest section. The salesman said they only had that width in stock. I asked his opinion on the width, and he said they are perfect. But of course they're going to be perfect if you only have these in stock right?

So, is it supposed to fit a bit snug at the widest section? Or should it be just touching? Does the distance between the lace sections indicate anything? It was almost touching at the bottom and about a 1/4" at the top.

Can anyone offer some insight?

Thanks!

 

[atila]

If you're going to an actual brick and mortar location, they'll be able to measure your foot right in front of you and make a size suggestion. From there, you can try them on and make your decision.

Just know, that it most of them will stretch A TINY bit. So if its just a tad tight, you should be okay... but the SA's can order any size, so don't worry about their advice if you feel it is a bit misleading.

 

[Pingson]

The shoes should fit snug and tight, but shouldn't be uncomfortable to put on. It might take a few wearings to break them in, so don't plan on wearing them more than a few hours the first couple of times.

I'm not really sure what you mean by the "lace sections"? Does the lacing close completely all the way up or does it look more like "V"? The lacing should close completely on an oxford shoe (see photo below), so in the latter case it might because you have a high instep and a wider shoe might provide a better fit.

 

[Mark Stone]

Thanks for the tips guys.

The concern here is that I have an even next Saturday, so I am quite last minute on this. Still, I want to make sure I don't buy the wrong size just because I am rushing.

The width issue is difficult to judge. I'm not sure if my definition of 'tight' is accurate or not. The sides are not "stretching", but they are definitely snug. I just don't want them to balloon at the sides.

As for the lacing, no it does not close completely. Before I made this post I did a lot of researching and from all the pictures I found, none of the Strands seemed to close completely. Could this be specific to this shoe? Here are some pictures I found:

Now, I must add that when I tried them on the lacing closed more than in all of the above examples. As I said, the bottom is near touching and at the top is only about a 1/4" ...

Whatchu guys think?

Thanks again for the responses!

 

[mcbrown]

I think it's a mistake to judge the fit of an OTR oxford shoe based on the lacing. The proof in the fit is in the wearing, not the lacing. If you have a high instep then sizing for the lacing will likely lead to getting a shoe that is either too wide or too long. There might theoretically be some oxford out there that is made in just the right last to accommodate your exact foot instep-and-all in just the style you want, but odds are that in the AE price range you won't find it.

The Alden guide to shoe fitting is concise and well-articulated:
http://www.aldenshoe.com/q1.htm

 

[Pingson]

Well if the lacing don't close properly the last might just be a bad fit for you. Regardless, the most I important thing is how hey feel. They look ok on you, so if you like them - I say go for it.

 

[gambit50]

They are mostly closed in the first pic. If they fit as in the second pic, do not buy them. That is quite awful.
And do not rush and buy the wrong pair. At least, I wouldn't.
It is difficult to explain how a shoe should fit. They should definitely be snug and cradle the foot in most places.
However, if your foot is really pushing in an area and changing the shape of the shoe, that is not ideal.
As mentioned above, a bit of breaking in may come but if they are just squeezing the bloody life out of your
foot, do not listen to the salesperson. After all, they have an agenda and unless it is one you trust, assume
they will push before pull. Others mentioned that you should be able to find the appropriate size in that model.
In the end, we cannot stop or force anyone from purchasing poor, ill fitting shoes. Personally, I hope you do not
but good luck.

 

[spitshine123]

They are mostly closed in the first pic. If they fit as in the second pic, do not buy them. That is quite awful.
And do not rush and buy the wrong pair. At least, I wouldn't.
It is difficult to explain how a shoe should fit. They should definitely be snug and cradle the foot in most places.
However, if your foot is really pushing in an area and changing the shape of the shoe, that is not ideal.
As mentioned above, a bit of breaking in may come but if they are just squeezing the bloody life out of your
foot, do not listen to the salesperson. After all, they have an agenda and unless it is one you trust, assume
they will push before pull. Others mentioned that you should be able to find the appropriate size in that model.
In the end, we cannot stop or force anyone from purchasing poor, ill fitting shoes. Personally, I hope you do not
but good luck.

What is your take on the 3rd pic, the stock AE photo showing a soft V? Some have said that this is appropriate for more casual balmorals such as the walnut strands. I personally think it looks pretty good.

 

[Thanks SF (a new me)]

my 0.02...Mark (OP), snug might be acceptable based on your fit trial, since leather will stretch a little..tight is a deal breaker IMO..Only you can tell..Since you have access to fitting, never compromise overall fit. Sometimes we fall in love on certain style even though the last (AE #5 in this case) is not a good fit..Don't rush. Once you have the fit sizing right, purchase confidence will follow. Don;t rationalize bad purchase because it was on sale and/or you love it so much. Good Luck

 

[gambit50]

That photo is professional and will give a good impression of the shoes whether laces are tight or open.
Though your point that the maker, themselves, tied a V in the lacing thus this being the or a 'correct look' is a good one.
I can understand your and others' contention that this lacing is alright or better for more casual purposes and a shoe to match.
There are so many variables that I cannot say that is wrong. Very possible that I would prefer it in some specific situation(shoe, outfit, purpose, etc.) brought to my attention.
But, overall, I would say to most to keep it tight for the simple reason that there are more cases of poor shoes with poor fit showing the V than not.
I believe(but am too lazy to do a thorough look right now) that most company shoe photos show tight lacing.
Interesting to see if that ratio changes whether the shoes are stand alone or on a model. Perhaps you have a sense or have looked at this with more detail.
More relaxed lacing seems to belong to bluchers, more relaxed shoes. There is often a lot of room for interpretation and what is best in those cases.
Perhaps I also always have some question deep within at first glance whether someone's laces are open because the shoe does not fit or because they chose that look.
Clearly, the AE photo is chosen.
I also do not worship at the altar of AE.
It would be a good experiment to see both methods, side by side, all else the same.
Not for myself, I know the answer for my cases but, say, the AE photo. Then, also, add the outfit, etc.

NOTE TO THE OP: I believe you said your laces were tighter than the top pic, yes? That is completely fine, no worries. Now, I wonder if that pic would look better with a V? Haha.
What you really do not want is a lack of fit which is demonstrated by the second photo. That is a canyon, not a V.

 

[Mark Stone]

Okay guys!

I did it. I went in on my lunch break and test fitted them again. I'll take pictures tonight and report back.

However, unexpectedly, instead of feelin excited and happy, I feel extremely guilty for spending on these. To the point where it's quite upsetting. I got a set of trees and a matching walnut belt. The bill after taxes made me choke. We're taxed 15% here so it really adds up. But I got them anyway.

So now I'm rationalizing in my head. I have a wedding coming up next week, and don't have shoes. I've wanted these for a while and thought long and hard about it, but didn't account for the belt and trees.

Anyways, I'm sure it'll pass. I know they're good for a long time if I take care of them.

So, pics tonight!

Thanks for reading!

 

[TravelFun]