How many suits do you really NEED vs. OWN?

[BPL Esq]

Thoughts and D'Avenza/ Castangia- Both are really nice, on par with Brioni, Zegna in terms of cut and fit. The difference between D'Avenza and Castangia and Attolini and Kition are really in materials selection. Every Attolini and Kiton that I own are made from incredible material. While some of the D'Avenzas and Castangias are just as nice in terms of material, there is a broader range with D'Avenza and Castangia meaning that some of the material seems nice but below a Super 120's. I have a couple that feel somewhat coarse but fit and wear great. Some of this might be the result of my buying sources. All of the one's I own come from online sellers and it could be that their stock was acquired from seconds or overstocks and so my purchases my not be reflective of the Brand quality. I think for the money spent D'Avenza and Castangia are tremendous values. From my standpoint I enjoy buying off the beaten path and would not want a collection composed of 2 or 3 brands alone.

Thanks very much. Just pulled the trigger on a NWT D'Avenza sport coat from an online seller who I understand bought a lot of the leftover original inventory. Looking forward to checking it out in person.

Also, I think we're on the same page. "Off the beaten path" is totally fine with me if the quality is there. I've found some good deals on Kiton/Brioni/Oxxford online in the past, but D'Avenza/Castangia and others definitely intrigue me, especially after getting a Sartoria Formosa suit from NMWA that I'm very pleased with.

 

[bunnyoswaldo]

Thanks very much. Just pulled the trigger on a NWT D'Avenza sport coat from an online seller who I understand bought a lot of the leftover original inventory. Looking forward to checking it out in person.

Also, I think we're on the same page. "Off the beaten path" is totally fine with me if the quality is there. I've found some good deals on Kiton/Brioni/Oxxford online in the past, but D'Avenza/Castangia and others definitely intrigue me, especially after getting a Sartoria Formosa suit from NMWA that I'm very pleased with.

I think you will be very pleased. Let me know your thoughts when it arrives.

 

[bicycleradical]

I have four suits, two of which were bought after I learned something about classic menswear.

My nice suits are a navy full canvas from Spier and Mackay and a green cotton suit from the same.

My suits that were bought when I knew nothing are JAB. One is in black and the other is navy pinstripe. Both fit however they have the boxy cut that cheaper suits are known for and do not offer a flattering silhouette like my S&M outfits.

The others I would like would be one charcoal or mid grey suit and something in seersucker. My company doesn't require business formal dress however it does go over well so I wear a jacket, odd trousers, and a tie when I go to the office. In the end, I only need my formal suits for the rare occasions where they are necessary. It would be fun to wear them more often however I do not travel in those circles and thus, do not live that lifestyle.

 

[BPL Esq]

I have four suits, two of which were bought after I learned something about classic menswear.

My nice suits are a navy full canvas from Spier and Mackay and a green cotton suit from the same.

My suits that were bought when I knew nothing are JAB. One is in black and the other is navy pinstripe. Both fit however they have the boxy cut that cheaper suits are known for and do not offer a flattering silhouette like my S&M outfits.

The others I would like would be one charcoal or mid grey suit and something in seersucker. My company doesn't require business formal dress however it does go over well so I wear a jacket, odd trousers, and a tie when I go to the office. In the end, I only need my formal suits for the rare occasions where they are necessary. It would be fun to wear them more often however I do not travel in those circles and thus, do not live that lifestyle.

I'm sort of in the same boat on a couple levels. I'm currently in replacement/upgrade mode. For one, my 3 existing suits prior to this year were not great for my purposes. One is a BB 1818 suit that I got for my wedding and isn't really useful for more conservative situations like court appearances (it's a bit brighter blue and has a check pattern). One was a lower-tier BB suit (BrooksCool; made in Thailand) I got at a time when I needed something quickly and didn't want to pay a lot (it's no longer in very good shape). The third was a BB 1818 suit that I either picked out in error because I was too focused on the wedding suit (this was part of a "2 for" deal) or that BB delivered to me in error without me noticing in time to return it. It's a very baggy Madison fit with voluminous, pleated trousers. I should probably sell it, as there is no chance I'll wear it outside the house.

Second, my office is 'business casual,' so I have a lot more use for a collection of sport coats than I do for a rack full of suits that will be worn relatively rarely. The sport coats get me compliments in my office while suits would elicit more confused responses or half-joking comments about whether I'm interviewing elsewhere. Sport coats were my focus during the early part of this year, but I just picked up a nicer navy suit in the past week and will probably add a couple more for variety. Mid-gray is likely next for me too.

 

[GBR]

A good suit can work well as 'business casual'. Wear without a tie and shirts other than those intended for more formality, eg white, and all will be well. Jeans and tee shirts seem to be fixed in too many minds as 'business casual' but there is more in the world if you think about it and have the right mind set. To ring the changes by all means drop down to jeans and tee shirt occasionally to show your care in selecting your clothes.

I do this nowadays with twenty plus suits in my wardrobe and I buy three or four new ones a year.

 

[BPL Esq]

A good suit can work well as 'business casual'. Wear without a tie and shirts other than those intended for more formality, eg white, and all will be well. Jeans and tee shirts seem to be fixed in too many minds as 'business casual' but there is more in the world if you think about it and have the right mind set. To ring the changes by all means drop down to jeans and tee shirt occasionally to show your care in selecting your clothes.

I do this nowadays with twenty plus suits in my wardrobe and I buy three or four new ones a year.

I would do this more often, but it would still seem a bit out of place in my workplace. That's why I go with the sport coat and odd trousers or chinos combo most of the time (not jeans and t-shirt). I'd consider it for dinner/drinks at more upscale sorts of places though if my wife feels like dressing up to a similar level of formality.

 

[TheFoo]

Like two. Maybe.

 

[clee1982]

how many Alden LWB on Plaza though?

 

[9thsymph]

Like two. Maybe.

Interesting.

Years of researching, investing, traveling, dialing in, and arguing the finer points of [timeless, everlasting...] bespoke tailoring - only to end up rejecting it all (most of it?)?

Did you really forsake your tailoring? How long did it last? Was it worth it?

What do you make of your vehemently argued positions re tailoring in hindsight?

Do you view your tailoring decade as a mistake?

Do you view any of your current decision making re consumption through the lens of your [ultimately failed] tailoring journey?

 

[clee1982]

Did he 100% turn away from CM? I knew a lot cm guy who has "pivot" but by pivot just means less cm more other things not as in let's abandon cm all together (count me as one of those).

I mean I like my random RRL/Barbanera or some other workwear chino as much as I like my suit/sports coat, and probably wouldn't mind add some minimalist tech ish type of outwear

 

[TheFoo]

Interesting.

Years of researching, investing, traveling, dialing in, and arguing the finer points of [timeless, everlasting...] bespoke tailoring - only to end up rejecting it all (most of it?)?

Did you really forsake your tailoring? How long did it last? Was it worth it?

What do you make of your vehemently argued positions re tailoring in hindsight?

Do you view your tailoring decade as a mistake?

Do you view any of your current decision making re consumption through the lens of your [ultimately failed] tailoring journey?

All good questions.

I still love tailored clothing. However, it has become both alien at work and even more so in social life. I can’t help but feel a bit costume-like on occasions where I’m the only one in a proper suit. It is sad, for sure.

Waste of time and money? No. I still have all my
bespoke clothes and will make use of it over my life. In fact, I still do order a thing or two every now and then. However, it does feel a little painful to know the utility of what I’ve invested in is so diminished. What has not diminished are all the friendships and experiences.

From a more technical perspective, I now have a far more incisive understanding of fit, construction, and cloth. Also, to understand tailored menswear is to understand a critical part of menswear history, which is necessary to contextualize contemporary derivatives.

 

[clee1982]

Did you move to VC or something? In a typical PE shop or credit shop you still will not look out place in a suit

 

[TheFoo]

Did you move to VC or something? In a typical PE shop or credit shop you still will not look out place in a suit

I cover tech, which exacerbates.

It’s not that you can never wear a suit, it’s that you can no longer wear one on a daily basis. It’s not even appropriate for most client meetings.

 

[clee1982]

well if you cover tech yea I can definitely see that

 

[GBR]

All good questions.

I still love tailored clothing. However, it has become both alien at work and even more so in social life. I can’t help but feel a bit costume-like on occasions where I’m the only one in a proper suit. It is sad, for sure.

Waste of time and money? No. I still have all my
bespoke clothes and will make use of it over my life. In fact, I still do order a thing or two every now and then. However, it does feel a little painful to know the utility of what I’ve invested in is so diminished. What has not diminished are all the friendships and experiences.

From a more technical perspective, I now have a far more incisive understanding of fit, construction, and cloth. Also, to understand tailored menswear is to understand a critical part of menswear history, which is necessary to contextualize contemporary derivatives.

Great shame, your reports were always a pleasure to read and fine examples of the options. Time are such, you may change again, let's hope.