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How many suits do you really NEED vs. OWN?

zewill

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Given your experience with SS, what do you think of their quality, in terms of materials and construction?
I saw this coat, which looks quite nice.

Also, I've read that SS garments are ultra-slim cut. I'm normally a 42R. Would you recommend 44 in SS?


View attachment 1564437
Thanks for the question. In all honesty I haven't worn suitsupply long enough for me to criticize their build quality.
I bought some items on regular price, and some others on the outlets (price is ridiculously low, as in 250$ us for full canvas pieces). So my expectations are lower, obviously. It remains made in china.
Their outerwear I find great, because you can wear your stuff without being overly careful like you would with a multi hundred or thousand piece.
All in all, their pieces are fashion forward, so it'll depend on your age too. I'm 34, and fit into their clearly "tall and slim" philosophy. While I find some things (trousers) too slim, their outerwear looks sleek and professional (pay attention to the lapels issue where on some pieces it goes over the top- doesn't seem to be the case of your piece).recently they started going with blends in their collection which I find is only done as a cost cutting measure, and it's a shame. It can help with durability on some pieces (100% alpaca for example). I would definitely suggest to size up. I wear 38L in both Spier Mackay and suitsupply, and usually buy a 40 overcoat.
Best is to try in store (if you can), both their customer service and stores are outstanding and very accomodating.
 

zewill

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Durability is true, although that's fairly obvious anyway - using plastic materials that don't ever biodegrade is going to add to how long a garment lasts.

Warmth is due to body heat being preserved and insulated. Strictly speaking, there are no warmer materials - only materials that are better at insulating body heat and preventing cold from seeping in, by being windproof for example. This is why wearing one heavy coat is not quite as warm as wearing three layers of equally insulating materials, because the body heat is better trapped with the layers.

Synthetics can actually be quite good at preventing body heat escaping too, but the problem is that they aren't breathable. This will make you sweat inordinately in the cold, which slowly saps away body heat. So you'll feel hotter, but it's actually a bad idea in cold weather. Good outerwear and parkas using synthetics will have a permeable layer like Gore-tex to account for this problem.

Adding the synthetic into the weave of an overcoat is only a cost-saving measure; it's a way for manufacturers to cheapen their garment's price, but also its quality. Considering that I own some overcoats that are well over 100 years old, I don't think the durability argument is a very good one either. You'll never go wrong by buying the highest quality - your wife may protest, however, which is why you should always bring chocolates home as well.
Great reply! I'm sure you have shared pics previously of your 100 y o garments, any links or pictures for people who may have missed them first time round?
 

Professor Χάος

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I have 48 suits and 37 sports coats. Over 500 ties, recently counted. I have a problem.
I don't think you have a problem....but you may want to eliminate some ties or suits or jackets that you no longer like.

My goal is about 50 suits and 200 ties....30 pairs of shoes....70-80 shirts.....that's enough to last a life time....
It may take me another two or three years to reach my target....
 
Last edited:

Professor Χάος

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Thanks for the question. In all honesty I haven't worn suitsupply long enough for me to criticize their build quality.
I bought some items on regular price, and some others on the outlets (price is ridiculously low, as in 250$ us for full canvas pieces). So my expectations are lower, obviously. It remains made in china.
Their outerwear I find great, because you can wear your stuff without being overly careful like you would with a multi hundred or thousand piece.
All in all, their pieces are fashion forward, so it'll depend on your age too. I'm 34, and fit into their clearly "tall and slim" philosophy. While I find some things (trousers) too slim, their outerwear looks sleek and professional (pay attention to the lapels issue where on some pieces it goes over the top- doesn't seem to be the case of your piece).recently they started going with blends in their collection which I find is only done as a cost cutting measure, and it's a shame. It can help with durability on some pieces (100% alpaca for example). I would definitely suggest to size up. I wear 38L in both Spier Mackay and suitsupply, and usually buy a 40 overcoat.
Best is to try in store (if you can), both their customer service and stores are outstanding and very accomodating.
Thanks for your thorough reply. I've looked through the SS website. Some of their suits look nice, but I'm used to Zegna and Canali as the minimum level of quality I would find acceptable. I want to acquire a few more TF and Kitons, and maybe another one or two Attolinis and Isaias.

I may stop into the SS main store the next time I'm in Amsterdam and try on their stuff. I like that mid-blue overcoat for instance.
 

Pyrrhomaniac

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Thanks for your thorough reply. I've looked through the SS website. Some of their suits look nice, but I'm used to Zegna and Canali as the minimum level of quality I would find acceptable. I want to acquire a few more TF and Kitons, and maybe another one or two Attolinis and Isaias.

I may stop into the SS main store the next time I'm in Amsterdam and try on their stuff. I like that mid-blue overcoat for instance.
I no longer have an interest in either Zegna or Canali, I'd gladly give virtually all of mine away. What size are you?
 

Pyrrhomaniac

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I don't think you have a problem....but you may want to eliminate some ties or suits or jackets that you no longer like.

My goal is about 50 suits and 200 ties....30 pairs of shoes....70-80 shirts.....that's enough to last a life time....
It may take me another two or three years to reach my target....
Gotta be careful with shirts depending on your size, if the arm holes are too big, it creates problems. I've found that wearing vests can help, but if you're thinner and want that ultra tight look, gotta find a brand of shirts that has the hole connecting the arm to the body small enough to be close to a tailored fit.
 

zewill

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Thanks for your thorough reply. I've looked through the SS website. Some of their suits look nice, but I'm used to Zegna and Canali as the minimum level of quality I would find acceptable. I want to acquire a few more TF and Kitons, and maybe another one or two Attolinis and Isaias.

I may stop into the SS main store the next time I'm in Amsterdam and try on their stuff. I like that mid-blue overcoat for instance.
If you don't buy suitsupply hoping for TF or Canali or Kiron quality, you will be happy. Take them as they are, a brand that uses respectable fabrics at respectable price, for pieces that can be worn at any occasion:) have a look at their "Jort" line. Despite the dumb name for clothes (has nothing to do with jeans but rather with a Dutch journalist) it's pretty much their top of the line. Although I heard they stopped producing those lately. Less demand, I guess.
 

zewill

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I no longer have an interest in either Zegna or Canali, I'd gladly give virtually all of mine away. What size are you?
Wow, that is extreme? Why so? maybe you could sell some to finance other pieces?
 

Professor Χάος

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I no longer have an interest in either Zegna or Canali, I'd gladly give virtually all of mine away. What size are you?
42R. I can't afford bespoke. I like Zegna Milano, and some of the newer Canalis have soft shoulders and great fabrics. But they are no longer my target: TF, Kiton, Attolini.....
 

Professor Χάος

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Gotta be careful with shirts depending on your size, if the arm holes are too big, it creates problems. I've found that wearing vests can help, but if you're thinner and want that ultra tight look, gotta find a brand of shirts that has the hole connecting the arm to the body small enough to be close to a tailored fit.
Nearly all my shirts are Neapolitan: Barba, Kiton, Finamore, and Borrelli. I have them slimmed down by my tailor, and she reworks the collars with ultra-stiff collar lining so they don't droop or bend. I've acquired a few TF shirts and although they are entirely machine made, I like the double button spread collar TF shirts. I wouldn't mind 6-7 more of those.
 

Professor Χάος

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I no longer have an interest in either Zegna or Canali, I'd gladly give virtually all of mine away. What size are you?
I understand your perspective. Once you try the higher end suits or find a great bespoke tailor, its difficult to accept anything less.

I would still buy a Zegna Milano if I really liked the fabric, but they are no longer my primary interest. I would buy more Orazio Luciano. Great cut and fabrics. I would like to try a Borrelli suit, or a Rubinacci. I like Sartoria Partenopea, although they are hit or miss with regards to their fabric choices. Maybe one day, I'll make enough money to try some bespoke tailors in Naples.
 

Alocin

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I understand your perspective. Once you try the higher end suits or find a great bespoke tailor, its difficult to accept anything less.

I would still buy a Zegna Milano if I really liked the fabric, but they are no longer my primary interest. I would buy more Orazio Luciano. Great cut and fabrics. I would like to try a Borrelli suit, or a Rubinacci. I like Sartoria Partenopea, although they are hit or miss with regards to their fabric choices. Maybe one day, I'll make enough money to try some bespoke tailors in Naples.
Whatever you do, avoid the Vivara model Borrelli’s unless you are stick thin and have orangutan arms lol
 

Professor Χάος

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If you don't buy suitsupply hoping for TF or Canali or Kiron quality, you will be happy. Take them as they are, a brand that uses respectable fabrics at respectable price, for pieces that can be worn at any occasion:) have a look at their "Jort" line. Despite the dumb name for clothes (has nothing to do with jeans but rather with a Dutch journalist) it's pretty much their top of the line. Although I heard they stopped producing those lately. Less demand, I guess.
I like that mid-blue overcoat. If it looked as nice as the picture, I would probably buy it. If the salesgirl is nice-looking, I may try on some of their suits. ;);)
 

Professor Χάος

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that looks good

In my mind linen is always "casual" and the strong shoulder vibe with TF doesn't quite always jive (it can, like say a white linen suit with s prominent shoulder maybe?), have you look at other maker?

Hello Clee1982,

I noticed that you were admiring this suit, so I bought it. Its 43% wool, 32% silk, and 25% linen. I'm still searching for a 3-piece TF with a nice PoW pattern.

TF Blue 2.jpeg
TF Blue 9.jpeg
 

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