How many suits do you really NEED vs. OWN?

[clee1982]

How color accurate is that, definitely quite a summer suit (quite bright)

 

[Professor Χάος]

How color accurate is that, definitely quite a summer suit (quite bright)

I'm pretty sure its darker than the picture....they usually are. You can get a better idea of the true color from these pictures

I don't think its actually incandescent. It looks more like light denim. But you're right of course...its a summer suit. But I don't have any wool-linen mix suits in my closet, and another TF doesn't hurt.

.

 

[Professor Χάος]

How color accurate is that, definitely quite a summer suit (quite bright)

Its also a Spencer (Base D) which are relatively rare. I saw another suit like this on another website, and the color was darker than these pictures. I've been searching the internet for a similar suit (to compare the pictures), but I couldn't find it anywhere.

 

[9thsymph]

I need 0. I own about 30 sport coats and 10 suits. ****.

 

[Professor Χάος]

How color accurate is that, definitely quite a summer suit (quite bright)

I almost bought this suit as well, but I couldn't agree on the price with the seller. Its nice, but not that rare. Anyway, I'm holding out for a 3-piece TF.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I need 0. I own about 30 sport coats and 10 suits. ****.

I agree. We don't need to buy suits...but we do anyway. Its about artistic appreciation of sartorial excellence.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I want this one...preferably as a 3-piece. Gorgeous.

 

[clee1982]

I just want Windsor (3 piece or not) in EU46C(US36S) if I can find it cheap...

 

[Professor Χάος]

I just want Windsor (3 piece or not) in EU46C(US36S) if I can find it cheap...

I took your advice regarding TF suit models. Windsor is the way to go, although Spencer is very similar. O'Connor seems flimsy and effeminate. I looked at many pictures of movie stars wearing O'Connor and didn't find it appealing.

 

[clee1982]

O'Conner just seem a bit "lack character", I have only tried Shelton briefly, but had Shelton came in side vent (think very rare), and not on patch pocket then it would probably be pretty close to Windsor (think Shelton has less padding).

this is pretty good guide I assume (though I have only tried Windsor/O'Conner/Shelton myself, and think this is missing some of the newer stuff)

TOM FORD Base / Fit Overview – The Ultimate Guide | Costume Limité

www.costumelimite.com

 

[thedose]

This has now become the Unofficial Tom Ford thread

 

[bunnyoswaldo]

Like many that have gone before, my relationship with tailored suiting has been a journey. When i passed the bar exam in 1988, i owned 2 or 3 suits and a few jackets. The suits came from a men’s warehouse sort of place: fused, low quality garments that fit poorly and looked worse. I then thought sartorial salvation might be found through thrift shops and consignment outfits. Lacking any substantive knowledge about basic suit construction and fit—by sheer luck this phase saw an improvement—but still too many mangled silhouettes and misplaced reliance on inexpensive one dimensional “dry cleaner “ tailors. Hems and waistlines were closer to accurate but cuffs, bodies, front rises and blousy pants were still untended. At some point I discovered a higher end retail store and for a pretty penny ended up with 3 or 4 middle of the road Canali, Hugo Boss and Hickey Freeman. My rotation was 3 or 4 and the results were comfortable but more or less scripted and lacking in any personal selection, feeling or thought. I then shifted my acquisition source to the internet and found a reliable tailor. A few years later i have a wardrobe of 15-20 suits: a few Oxxford, 2-3 Attolini, some Brioni, Zegna Couture, Zegna, 1 Tom Ford, a few Kiton, D’Avenza, Sartoria Castangia and Partenopea, Isaia, Canali, Battistoni, Caruso, RLBL, RLPL, 2 Samuelsohn linen, silk wool summer suits and a few HF super 150’s, 160’s in the super traditional 2 low stance buttons style. I manage my wardrobe like an NFL GM. When i find a solid D’Avenza or Brioni 2nd round or early 3rd round pick, i will release Hugo Boss or Armani Black Label. Of course there is always room for the affordable Attolini, Kiton or high super Brioni. I recently scored a Orazio Luciano and a nice Luciano Barbera dark gray glen plaid. The Zegna Couture, Tom Ford, Attolini and Kiton are all high first rounders. I find that understanding different cuts and my own measurements (particularly front rise) has cut down on tailoring costs. I am also much more discriminating with respect to fabrics. So, my lesser Canali, Zegna and HF suits are all super 130’s or better. I also no longer have any “sympathy” team members. If a suit cannot be made to look really nice, it will get sold or donated. I also tend to avoid heavy flannels or cashmeres as it never gets that cold where i conduct business. Lastly, I have a vintage BB seersucker and an electric blue Sartoria Castangia as my go to “you won’t forget me anytime soon” concept suits. I have thoroughly enjoyed being a SF member and have learned a ton over time. So thanks to all of you!

 

[BPL Esq]

Like many that have gone before, my relationship with tailored suiting has been a journey. When i passed the bar exam in 1988, i owned 2 or 3 suits and a few jackets. The suits came from a men’s warehouse sort of place: fused, low quality garments that fit poorly and looked worse. I then thought sartorial salvation might be found through thrift shops and consignment outfits. Lacking any substantive knowledge about basic suit construction and fit—by sheer luck this phase saw an improvement—but still too many mangled silhouettes and misplaced reliance on inexpensive one dimensional “dry cleaner “ tailors. Hems and waistlines were closer to accurate but cuffs, bodies, front rises and blousy pants were still untended. At some point I discovered a higher end retail store and for a pretty penny ended up with 3 or 4 middle of the road Canali, Hugo Boss and Hickey Freeman. My rotation was 3 or 4 and the results were comfortable but more or less scripted and lacking in any personal selection, feeling or thought. I then shifted my acquisition source to the internet and found a reliable tailor. A few years later i have a wardrobe of 15-20 suits: a few Oxxford, 2-3 Attolini, some Brioni, Zegna Couture, Zegna, 1 Tom Ford, a few Kiton, D’Avenza, Sartoria Castangia and Partenopea, Isaia, Canali, Battistoni, Caruso, RLBL, RLPL, 2 Samuelsohn linen, silk wool summer suits and a few HF super 150’s, 160’s in the super traditional 2 low stance buttons style. I manage my wardrobe like an NFL GM. When i find a solid D’Avenza or Brioni 2nd round or early 3rd round pick, i will release Hugo Boss or Armani Black Label. Of course there is always room for the affordable Attolini, Kiton or high super Brioni. I recently scored a Orazio Luciano and a nice Luciano Barbera dark gray glen plaid. The Zegna Couture, Tom Ford, Attolini and Kiton are all high first rounders. I find that understanding different cuts and my own measurements (particularly front rise) has cut down on tailoring costs. I am also much more discriminating with respect to fabrics. So, my lesser Canali, Zegna and HF suits are all super 130’s or better. I also no longer have any “sympathy” team members. If a suit cannot be made to look really nice, it will get sold or donated. I also tend to avoid heavy flannels or cashmeres as it never gets that cold where i conduct business. Lastly, I have a vintage BB seersucker and an electric blue Sartoria Castangia as my go to “you won’t forget me anytime soon” concept suits. I have thoroughly enjoyed being a SF member and have learned a ton over time. So thanks to all of you!

What are your thoughts on the D'Avenza and Castangia suits in the collection?

 

[BespokeBrooklyn]

If you wear a suit every day, six suits is not too many. You could get away with fewer if you needed or wanted to, but if you wear every suit you own approximately once per week, then I would say you are getting good value out of your purchases.

I also wear suits every day, and think of my suits a bit differently. I have one suit that I mostly reserve for my nicest occasions and five suits that I wear for regular days in the office (some of these are inexpensive suits intended to be comfortable and comply with my office’s dress code, not turn heads smog menswear experts). Additionally, I have two summer suits and one suit that is heavy enough that I only wear it in the winter. I’ve found that that rotation allows me to have some variety in color and texture, dress appropriately when it is very hot or cold, and rest my clothes enough that I can get years of use out of them.

I picked up my third grey suit over the weekend and began to think if it is actually needed. Certainly it is a different shade and a different texture, but I thought perhaps some newer shirts, ties may do the trick. I already own navy, navy stripe, grey stripe and now three greys. Overkill? ( I do wear suits daily. A navy blazer sometimes, also. )
Thoughts...

 

[bunnyoswaldo]

What are your thoughts on the D'Avenza and Castangia suits in the collection?

Thoughts and D'Avenza/ Castangia- Both are really nice, on par with Brioni, Zegna in terms of cut and fit. The difference between D'Avenza and Castangia and Attolini and Kition are really in materials selection. Every Attolini and Kiton that I own are made from incredible material. While some of the D'Avenzas and Castangias are just as nice in terms of material, there is a broader range with D'Avenza and Castangia meaning that some of the material seems nice but below a Super 120's. I have a couple that feel somewhat coarse but fit and wear great. Some of this might be the result of my buying sources. All of the one's I own come from online sellers and it could be that their stock was acquired from seconds or overstocks and so my purchases my not be reflective of the Brand quality. I think for the money spent D'Avenza and Castangia are tremendous values. From my standpoint I enjoy buying off the beaten path and would not want a collection composed of 2 or 3 brands alone.