How do you create a shirt collar that doesn't fan out?

[teknique22]

What's the trick? I'm talking about achieving a MTM version of Ledbury's famous "stand up collar" - I don't think it's as simple as creating a stiffer band and leaf, because I have even Tom Ford collars that the band is stiff and tall, but the actual collar leaf itself fans almost horizontally off my chest.

What's the best way to solve this? Is there some weight a tailor can put at the ends of the collars to keep it falling down? I don't want to walk around with metal magnets on my body so please don't suggest Wurkin stiffs - I know there is a way to achieve what I'm looking for simply by the nature of it existing in many brands that already exist - Ledbury to name one of them.

There has to be a way to achieve this consistently - does anyone know how?

Thanks!

 

[GBR]

Ironing might help.

 

[12345Michael54321]

Starch might help, too.

 

[Marsay]

https://www.asuitablewardrobe.com/blog/lost-cooper-collar/

Can confirm RLPL still make these from time to time; I have a linen one from approx. five years back.

 

[Dapperish]

Have you tried Wurkin Stiffs? I use them, always have a perfect collar, and the magnets are not even noticeable.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

You want the collar lapels to pop out as on the pic?

That is considered on schools of high tailoring a fail and and an aberration ( but if you want to wear it as fashion trick then is ok)

You can get it putting on the back of the collar pockets a stiffer plastic arrow ( good shirts do have a detachable ones)

You can get a shirtmaker does a bad collar stand band to achieve the opposite effect it must do.

Also you can get a shirtmaker to do a long (+9 cms) collar lapel peaks with ultrastiff interlining and
peak reinforce.

This post is funny since a customer is asking bespoke for what we shirtmakers try to avoid: stiff interlinings and pop out collars, but is interesting since we must accomodate all what a customer ask.

Let me pass this to other shirtmaker friends.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Has the shirt been laundered yet? Collar has a lot of spring.
I have a patent pending collar developed with Bryan of the company, Teddy Stratford.
Use nothing but a collar stay to keep the shirt tight to the collar band. No unsightly pulling, no buttons or hidden loops. These are made in my shop on 5th Ave

 

[whitelies]

I was always under the impression that this comes down to the cut of the shirt and how it fits you. Of course, the collar needs to be ironed properly and needs to be the right size, but if it still fans out, it might be because of the fitment, namely how the shirt and collar "aligns" to your shoulders and neck.

I've had this issue with various collar shapes as well as various collar heights, and on the other hand have an equal variety of styles that fit me fine without winging, so I think it has more to do with the overall fitment.

So I think the only proper soulution is to look for shirts where this doesn't happen.

Thoughts?

 

[Andy57]

https://www.asuitablewardrobe.com/blog/lost-cooper-collar/

Can confirm RLPL still make these from time to time; I have a linen one from approx. five years back.

Hemrajani will still make this style collar, as does Marol.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Hemrajani will still make this style collar, as does Marol.

the cooper, lido, Italian collar is a sport shirt collar.
I think the poster is looking for a business appropriate collar.

the issue with this shirt is the collar construction.
the way the band and leaf are attached.
the modern methods of attaching collar to the band are one of the causes of this problem

a couple of good washes will help.