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HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

gdl203

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I'll start this thread on a great suggestion by aportnoy. I hope everyone can inject some of their experience (and pictures) to make this as useful as possible. Feel free to post or PM me - I'll be adding content as we go

Part 1. Labels

Suits and coats


• Cesare Attolini

cesare_attolini_label.jpg

(I guess this one is pretty obvious...)

attolini_label_barbera.jpg

(here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)


• Belvest

belvest_label.jpg



• Boglioli

boglioli_label.jpg



• Luigi Borrelli

borrelli_blazer_label.jpg



• Brioni

brioni_label_neiman.jpg

(here for Neiman Marcus)


• Cantarelli

cantarelli_label_rlpl2.jpg

(here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label)


• Caraceni

caraceni_label_barbera.jpg

(here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale -- to be confirmed)

• Caruso (Ma.Co.)

corneliani_rlbl.jpg

(here for Ralph Lauren Polo Blue Label)

corneliani_for_dunhill.jpg

(here for "Made in Italy" Dunhill)



zegna_for_dunhill_label.jpg

(here for "Made in Italy" Dunhill suit)

• Chester Barrie

chesterbarrie_label_rlpl.jpg

(here for "Made in England" Ralph Lauren Purple Label)


• Corneliani

Corneliani.jpg


• Hickey Freeman

hickeyfreeman_label.jpg
hickeyfreeman_tag.jpg

(Hand tailored line)


• Isaia

isaia_label.jpg



• Kiton

kiton_label.jpg

(another pretty obvious one)


• Samuelsohn

Samuelsohn.jpg



• Sartoria Partanopea

partanopea_label_barbera.jpg

(here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)


• Southwick

Southwick.jpg



• St Andrews

standrews_label_rlpl.jpg

(here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label overcoat)

standrews_label_rlpl-1.jpg

(here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label suit)

standrews_label_barbera.jpg

(here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)



Trousers

• Incotex

incotex_back_tag.jpg

(Typical blue tag at the back of the waist of Incotex pants)


Shirts


• Barba




• Camiceria Napoletana




Part 2. Heels and Nail Patterns

• Crockett & Jones

CJ_Radstock_Black_341_Dainite-Heel.jpg

(current benchgrade, Dainite sole, here a Radstock on 341 Last)

CJRLPolo_Benton_Tan_UNKNOWN_Leather.jpg

(current benchgrade heel pattern on Radstock model)


• Edward Green

eg_atlee_808_darkoak_heel.jpg

(older nail pattern on an Atlee 808)

eg_isham_82_chestnut_heel.jpg

(recent nail pattern on an Isham 82)

EGRLPL_Grant_DarkOak_888_Leather-He.jpg

(Edward Green for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, recent nail pattern on Grant model)


• Ferragamo

ferragamo_lower_heel.jpg

(lower line)

ferragamo_tramezza_heel.jpg

(Tramezza line)


• Grenson

Grenson_Kings_BurntPine_UNKNOWN_Lea.jpg

(current Masterpiece heel and nail pattern om Paul Stuart's "Stuart Choice" Kings model)

• Silviano Lattanzi

l1she4.jpg
l2sou2.jpg

(two different soles including the signature sole with nailed initials)


• John Lobb

jl_philip_heel.jpg

(older Prestige heel and nail pattern on Philip model)

jl_vintage_2004_heel.jpg

(recent Prestige "JL" heel on Vintage 2004 model)

JL_Orion_SaharaTan_8695_Leather-Hee.jpg

(recent non-Prestige heel on Orion model)

jl_preston_heel.jpg

(recent non-Prestige "JL" heel on Preston model)


• Mantellassi

mantellassi_regular_penny_heel.jpg

(lower line)

mantellassi_handmade_heel.jpg

(handmade line)

zegna_mantelassi.jpg

(Zegna by Mantellassi)


• Alfred Sargent

ASWestminster.jpg

(current heel on Westminster)


• Vass

Vass_OldEnglisch_Oxblood_U_Leather-.jpg

(current heel on Old English, U Last)
 
Last edited:

A Harris

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Good idea, but you've got the Cantarelli and Saint Andrew's label switched.
 

gdl203

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Originally Posted by A Harris
Good idea, but you've got the Cantarelli and Saint Andrew's label switched.

Thanks - fixed
 

acidboy

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great great thread!!!

did i mention the thread you started is great?
 

Rolo

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Methinks this thread will need to be sticky. What a fantastic resource.

I would provide lots of pics of Incotex labels, but they all seem to have holes in them (thanks Ed & Jamison).
tounge.gif
 

argoth

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Great thread! Some contributions:

John Lobb (Previous generation, Orion, 8695 Last, Leather)
JL_Orion_SaharaTan_8695_Leather-Heel.jpg


Edward Green for Ralph Lauren Purple Label (Current, Grant, 888 Last, Leather)
EGRLPL_Grant_DarkOak_888_Leather-Heel.jpg


Grenson for Paul Stuart (Current, Kings, Unknown Last, Leather)
Grenson_Kings_BurntPine_UNKNOWN_Leather-Heel.jpg


Crockett and Jones (Current, Belgrave, 337 Last, Leather) ~Handgrade~
CJ_Belgrave_Chestnut_337_Leather-Heel.jpg


Crockett and Jones (Current, Radstock, 341 Last, Dainite) ~Benchgrade~
CJ_Radstock_Black_341_Dainite-Heel.jpg


Arg
 

gdl203

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awesome argoth! thanks a lot - I added these (although for some reason the first C&J picture doesn't show up for me...). We're making progress..
smile.gif
 

argoth

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Hmm.. not sure what I did wrong on my Belgrave photo. Probably a typo somewhere. I'll try and figure it out a bit later this evening. In the mean time, here are some shots from my new acquisitions.

Vass (Current, Old Englisch, U Last, Leather)
Vass_OldEnglisch_Oxblood_U_Leather-Heel.jpg


Crockett and Jones for Ralph Lauren Polo (Current, Benton, Unknown Last ~Maybe 330~, Leather)
CJRLPolo_Benton_Tan_UNKNOWN_Leather-Heel.jpg


Arg
 

gdl203

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Thanks Arg - I added these two - is that C&J (RL Benton) benchgrade or handgrade?
 

whnay.

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Great thread gdl, I'll post some this evening.
 

josepidal

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The nail patterns change when the maker does shoes for another brand, in general?
 

gdl203

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Originally Posted by josepidal
The nail patterns change when the maker does shoes for another brand, in general?

I'm not sure there is a general answer. I don't think EG and C&J heels are different when they make for other brands. Mantellassi's soles for Zegna are slightly different from their own patterns

BTW, does anyone have pictures of other shoemakers' heels? e.g. Cheaney, Poulsen, Loake, Sargent?
 

odoreater

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Awesome idea. I'll post some when I get home tonight.
 

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