HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, Nov 10, 2006.

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  1. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I'll start this thread on a great suggestion by aportnoy. I hope everyone can inject some of their experience (and pictures) to make this as useful as possible. Feel free to post or PM me - I'll be adding content as we go

    Part 1. Labels

    Suits and coats


    • Cesare Attolini

    [​IMG]
    (I guess this one is pretty obvious...)

    [​IMG]
    (here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)


    • Belvest

    [​IMG]


    • Boglioli

    [​IMG]


    • Luigi Borrelli

    [​IMG]


    • Brioni

    [​IMG]
    (here for Neiman Marcus)


    • Cantarelli

    [​IMG]
    (here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label)


    • Caraceni

    [​IMG]
    (here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale -- to be confirmed)

    • Caruso (Ma.Co.)

    [​IMG]
    (here for Ralph Lauren Polo Blue Label)

    [​IMG]
    (here for "Made in Italy" Dunhill)



    [​IMG]
    (here for "Made in Italy" Dunhill suit)

    • Chester Barrie

    [​IMG]
    (here for "Made in England" Ralph Lauren Purple Label)


    • Corneliani

    [​IMG]

    • Hickey Freeman

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    (Hand tailored line)


    • Isaia

    [​IMG]


    • Kiton

    [​IMG]
    (another pretty obvious one)


    • Samuelsohn

    [​IMG]


    • Sartoria Partanopea

    [​IMG]
    (here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)


    • Southwick

    [​IMG]


    • St Andrews

    [​IMG]
    (here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label overcoat)

    [​IMG]
    (here for Ralph Lauren Purple Label suit)

    [​IMG]
    (here for Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale)



    Trousers

    • Incotex

    [​IMG]
    (Typical blue tag at the back of the waist of Incotex pants)


    Shirts


    • Barba




    • Camiceria Napoletana




    Part 2. Heels and Nail Patterns

    • Crockett & Jones

    [​IMG]
    (current benchgrade, Dainite sole, here a Radstock on 341 Last)

    [​IMG]
    (current benchgrade heel pattern on Radstock model)


    • Edward Green

    [​IMG]
    (older nail pattern on an Atlee 808)

    [​IMG]
    (recent nail pattern on an Isham 82)

    [​IMG]
    (Edward Green for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, recent nail pattern on Grant model)


    • Ferragamo

    [​IMG]
    (lower line)

    [​IMG]
    (Tramezza line)


    • Grenson

    [​IMG]
    (current Masterpiece heel and nail pattern om Paul Stuart's "Stuart Choice" Kings model)

    • Silviano Lattanzi

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (two different soles including the signature sole with nailed initials)


    • John Lobb

    [​IMG]
    (older Prestige heel and nail pattern on Philip model)

    [​IMG]
    (recent Prestige "JL" heel on Vintage 2004 model)

    [​IMG]
    (recent non-Prestige heel on Orion model)

    [​IMG]
    (recent non-Prestige "JL" heel on Preston model)


    • Mantellassi

    [​IMG]
    (lower line)

    [​IMG]
    (handmade line)

    [​IMG]
    (Zegna by Mantellassi)


    • Alfred Sargent

    [​IMG]
    (current heel on Westminster)


    • Vass

    [​IMG]
    (current heel on Old English, U Last)
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2014


  2. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good idea, but you've got the Cantarelli and Saint Andrew's label switched.
     


  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Good idea, but you've got the Cantarelli and Saint Andrew's label switched.

    Thanks - fixed
     


  4. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    great great thread!!!

    did i mention the thread you started is great?
     


  5. Rolo

    Rolo Senior member

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    Methinks this thread will need to be sticky. What a fantastic resource.

    I would provide lots of pics of Incotex labels, but they all seem to have holes in them (thanks Ed & Jamison). [​IMG]
     


  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great idea. Maybe we should add interior labels that can reveal the age of a garment? I'll try to add a couple of labels from older and newer Corneliani tonight or tomorrow.

    We're like the CSI of clothing!
     


  7. argoth

    argoth Senior member

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    Great thread! Some contributions:

    John Lobb (Previous generation, Orion, 8695 Last, Leather)
    [​IMG]

    Edward Green for Ralph Lauren Purple Label (Current, Grant, 888 Last, Leather)
    [​IMG]

    Grenson for Paul Stuart (Current, Kings, Unknown Last, Leather)
    [​IMG]

    Crockett and Jones (Current, Belgrave, 337 Last, Leather) ~Handgrade~
    [​IMG]

    Crockett and Jones (Current, Radstock, 341 Last, Dainite) ~Benchgrade~
    [​IMG]

    Arg
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    awesome argoth! thanks a lot - I added these (although for some reason the first C&J picture doesn't show up for me...). We're making progress.. [​IMG]
     


  9. argoth

    argoth Senior member

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    Hmm.. not sure what I did wrong on my Belgrave photo. Probably a typo somewhere. I'll try and figure it out a bit later this evening. In the mean time, here are some shots from my new acquisitions.

    Vass (Current, Old Englisch, U Last, Leather)
    [​IMG]

    Crockett and Jones for Ralph Lauren Polo (Current, Benton, Unknown Last ~Maybe 330~, Leather)
    [​IMG]

    Arg
     


  10. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks Arg - I added these two - is that C&J (RL Benton) benchgrade or handgrade?
     


  12. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great thread gdl, I'll post some this evening.
     


  13. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    The nail patterns change when the maker does shoes for another brand, in general?
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The nail patterns change when the maker does shoes for another brand, in general?

    I'm not sure there is a general answer. I don't think EG and C&J heels are different when they make for other brands. Mantellassi's soles for Zegna are slightly different from their own patterns

    BTW, does anyone have pictures of other shoemakers' heels? e.g. Cheaney, Poulsen, Loake, Sargent?
     


  15. odoreater

    odoreater Senior member

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    Awesome idea. I'll post some when I get home tonight.
     


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