HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, Nov 10, 2006.

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  1. vogda

    vogda Well-Known Member

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    Could someone post examples of the Peal Brooks Brothers heels? I believe this is one of the main culprits . . .it would be nice to know which are C&J and which are AS . . . although based on the Polo heel pics, the Peals with one row of nails are probably also C&J.

    alden Blucher plein toe
    [​IMG]
     
  2. vogda

    vogda Well-Known Member

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    alden Blucher plein toe







    C&J Boswell ?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. vogda

    vogda Well-Known Member

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    C&J Boswell ?
    John Lobb Farndon and Sprint II
    ot a very common model
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. summej2

    summej2 Senior member

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    How about writing on the inside of the shoe? EG hand writes a serial number, the size, and a last number on the inside. Tricker's does the same. CJ prints this information. What other English makers hand write information in the shoe?
     
  5. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    C&J hand-writes, at least in the handgrade models.
     
  6. minimal

    minimal Senior member

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    C&J hand-writes, at least in the handgrade models.

    Most of the time this is true, but I've seen a bunch of handgrades that are printed (weymouths at the NY store, for example).

    Just FYI...
     
  7. Leaveitothexperts

    Leaveitothexperts Senior member

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    Most of the time this is true, but I've seen a bunch of handgrades that are printed (weymouths at the NY store, for example).

    Just FYI...


    I just got a pair of belgraves from plal that are printed . . . . really sexy shoes btw . . .
     
  8. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Here's some of my contributions -- I don't think any of these have been posted yet. From left to right:

    1. Corneliani mainline (fully canvassed) sportcoat.
    2. H.Freeman, older label (fully canvassed, handmade double-sewn Oxxford style buttonholes) navy blazer.
    3. Samuelsohn Austin model.
    4. Southwick, half-canvassed model.
    5. Grenson Masterpiece, non-Paul Stuart line.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  9. Dmax

    Dmax Senior member

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    Canali or whomever makes them for Canali. Hope to add more later. [​IMG]]
     
  10. west coast wonderboy

    west coast wonderboy Senior member

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    picked up a worsted black chalkstripe suit at a vintage gents store in London recently and I've been trying to figure out what its origin is... it hasn't got any labels other than this one.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Does anyone have any pics of the size/content tag on a recent Corneliani suit or sportcoat? It just dawned on me that the tags inside the current Polo suits and jackets are pretty much identical to those I've seen in Canali suits, but not to any Corneliani I've seen. I think they switched suppliers. Probably a ways back, as I seem to remember the older Blue Label stuff having the Corneliani tags.
     
  12. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

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    Does anyone have any pics of the size/content tag on a recent Corneliani suit or sportcoat? It just dawned on me that the tags inside the current Polo suits and jackets are pretty much identical to those I've seen in Canali suits, but not to any Corneliani I've seen. I think they switched suppliers. Probably a ways back, as I seem to remember the older Blue Label stuff having the Corneliani tags.

    Andrew, about a few posts up, the first picture attached is a Corneliani mainline sportcoat from about 1.5 years ago from STP (so probably 3 years old-ish?). It's a little dark, so if you want a brighter picture I can try to take it later today.
     
  13. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Earthmover. It's as I thought then - the current Polo and signature line suits are almost certainly Canali, not Corneliani.
     
  14. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Really? I need to check out some of the current Polo suits.
     
  15. crazyquik

    crazyquik Senior member

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    First compare the Alfred Sargent Westminster from thier Premier Exclusive Collection:
    [​IMG]

    to this Polo wholecut from my collection:
    [​IMG]

    Other than the laces and the edge dressing (black vs brown), I think they are pretty close.

    If so, then this is the Sargent heel; it's distinctive feature is the double row of nails. Also there are 3 nails across the dovetail on the combination heel. This matches what I have read on AAAC; that the Peals with a double row of nails on the heels are Sargents. Single row, made in England are C&J, and single row made in USA are Alden.

    [​IMG]
     

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