Have I found my bespoke tailor?

[David Reeves]



I didn't say that he is immigrant, I said that I thought he was of Cuban descent.  The neighborhood his shop is in is largely working class and there are many immigrants and first generation Americans.  I'd presume that this and the fact that he doesn't seem to have an advertising presence causes some downward pressure on his pricing.  Is your point that if he's willing to work for $20 per hour that his product is bound not to be any good?

$20 an hour is not a lot of money for a business owner in the U.S. In New York city you pay what? $15.00 to hem a pair of trousers and it takes? 5 minutes? Ok now though, let's assume he has some expenditure, (he has a shop of some description) but even if he didn't he still has to buy cloth and materials to make the garment so his $20 an hour is shrinking further. On top of that he's not sewing away constantly for dear life but he's got time to talk to you. It just doesn't make any economical sense.

How much does he charge to hem a trouser?

 

[gringodaddy]

Earlier in the thread I had mentioned that this was exclusive of the price of the cloth. Is is possible that he makes a margin there too? And he is not in NYC. His rent (if he in fact pays rent and doesn't own the building) will be way way less than NYC (being a former NYC resident and working real estate I can attest to this). The last pair of trousers I dropped off to him needed more than a hemming and the bill is for $35-

 

[David Reeves]

What did you have done exactly for $35.00?

 

[Claghorn]

Jesus. You guys pay $15 dollars for hemming? My alterations tailor does it for free*. Generally the price breakdown:

Shoulders - 70
Sleeves (working) - 70
Chest - 60
Waist - 40
Sleeves (unworking) - 30

*I've paid him quite a bit of money in the last 3 years or so, and it isn't like I come in with just pants. Does them while I have coffee next door.


Also, tailors here make massive margins on fabric. It's practically a scam.

 

[gringodaddy]

I don't have the technical acumen to really say. the pants have a long crotch and to much material in the seat according to him.
Whatever it is a tailor would do to improve the fit of a loose, baggy pair of pants

 

[gringodaddy]



Jesus. You guys pay $15 dollars for hemming? My alterations tailor does it for free. Generally the price breakdown:

Shoulders - 70
Sleeves (working) - 70
Chest - 60
Waist - 40
Sleeves (unworking) - 30

I don't know the prices for pants, but it's generally been pricier than jackets.


Also, tailors here make massive margins on fabric. It's practically a scam.

I kind of presume that if he quotes me $1000 for his labor in a suit, that he'll make some money in the cloth. I'm ok with that provided the sum total is a workable number for me. I have no clue what cloth costs.

 

[David Reeves]



I don't have the technical acumen to really say. the pants have a long crotch and to much material in the seat according to him.
Whatever it is a tailor would do to improve the fit of a loose, baggy pair of pants

Well if you had the waist and seat taken in and the trousers hemmed you got a logical less expensive than NYC price there, but really, there are bespoke suits and bespoke suits. I cant see this being a high end suit for this price. However until you know cost of material we don't know how much he's actually charging.

Iv'e spent 15 years professionally searching out and trying out tailors like this, to make for the companies I have worked for and for the past 4 years my own. Tailors come and go in companies and theres never enough so you always have to be on the look out, but knowing what I know about tailors and the economics of making suits, $1000 for one guy to CMT (cut make and trim) a garment all by himself to a high degree, well it just sounds improbable.

 

[gringodaddy]

@claghorn: one of the reasons I want to try bespoke is because alteration costs have often made a good rtw deal less attractive!

 

[gringodaddy]



Well if you had the waist and seat taken in and the trousers hemmed you got a logical less expensive than NYC price there, but really, there are bespoke suits and bespoke suits. I cant see this being a high end suit for this price. However until you know cost of material we don't know how much he's actually charging.

Iv'e spent 15 years professionally searching out and trying out tailors like this, to make for the companies I have worked for and for the past 4 years my own. Tailors come and go in companies and theres never enough so you always have to be on the look out, but knowing what I know about tailors and the economics of making suits, $1000 for one guy to CMT (cut make and trim) a garment all by himself to a high degree, well it just sounds improbable.

Fair enough. I suppose only time and some of my hard-earned money will tell.

I want a long wearing, well fitted wardrobe of my creation, and not just what is available in stores. at the prices he quoted those criteria seem reasonable.

I have read the ercoles thread and if I'm not mistaken, before being "discovered" by ny islander wasn't he quite inexpensive?

Lastly, have you ever gone out for a meal outside of the city and be surprised by how much less expensive it was for the same quality?
When that happens to me I wonder what exactly we get for our money in the big city if such value can be found just 20 minutes away?

 

[Threadhead]

Gringodaddy,

Do yourself a favor and stop listening to all the chatter in this thread. The tailor you spoke with is very good and the price he quoted is very fair. Who cares if David Reeves is contesting the pay scale and rent the man pays, etc.? He may not be putting 50 hours into your suit. So what? Just make sure the thing fits and be happy. Make sure it fits to your standards instead of those who ponitficate on these message boards, many of whom have NEVER had custom garments made in their lives.

Secondly, just get some good, servicable cloth. Stay away from the "Unfunded Liabilites" thread which can only cause confusion. Half the idiots on the thread are trying to save money by bypassing the tailor, thinking they are getting a bargain by sourcing the cloth themselves. Sometimes, it isn't worth the effort, especially if the tailor won't work with outside cloth. It's like walking into Peter Luger and explaining how you brought your own cut of meat and telling them how to cook it.

 

[gringodaddy]

Thanks, I appreciate everyone's input though, including Davids. Nothing he said has given me any pause. I believe that he will get me what I want. I also believe that I could probably get a finer garment for a higher price (perhaps from the same tailor!) as David has suggested. But I wonder at what point the return becomes diminishing? I've made my mind up to try this guy out.
Cloth will probably be from Holland and Sherry books

 

[Claghorn]

At the price, it's definitely worth a shot. And if he lets you CMT, it is always worth checking out the unfunded liabilities thread.

 

[David Reeves]



Gringodaddy,

Do yourself a favor and stop listening to all the chatter in this thread. The tailor you spoke with is very good and the price he quoted is very fair. Who cares if David Reeves is contesting the pay scale and rent the man pays, etc.? He may not be putting 50 hours into your suit. So what? Just make sure the thing fits and be happy. Make sure it fits to your standards instead of those who ponitficate on these message boards, many of whom have NEVER had custom garments made in their lives.

Secondly, just get some good, servicable cloth. Stay away from the "Unfunded Liabilites" thread which can only cause confusion. Half the idiots on the thread are trying to save money by bypassing the tailor, thinking they are getting a bargain by sourcing the cloth themselves. Sometimes, it isn't worth the effort, especially if the tailor won't work with outside cloth. It's like walking into Peter Luger and explaining how you brought your own cut of meat and telling them how to cook it.

Well I care obviously. Do you know who the tailor is?

 

[David Reeves]



Thanks, I appreciate everyone's input though, including Davids.  Nothing he said has given me any pause.  I believe that he will get me what I want.  I also believe that I could probably get a finer garment for a higher price (perhaps from the same tailor!) as David has suggested.  But I wonder at what point the return becomes diminishing?  I've made my mind up to try this guy out. 
Cloth will probably be from Holland and Sherry books

Seriously good luck with it if he's good I will check him out, in fact could you PM me his details?

 

[Threadhead]

Of course I know who it is, otherwise I wouldn't have posted.

And for Claghorn: the point is to stay away from the "Unfinded liabilities" thread. There's too much disinformation as it is.

Gringodaddy: Stick to the tailor's advice for cloth. Once you get a few garments under your belt, you should have a better idea of what kind of cloth works best. Then, you can try to source your own.