• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Hi, we have updated our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy in anticipation of the upcoming new Calfornia laws, the CCPA. If you are a resident of California, these rights pertain to you. Thanks - Styleforum Team.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Have I found my bespoke tailor?

gringodaddy

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
797
Reaction score
240
I have recently relocated to Hudson County NJ. On a recent walk around my new neighborhood last weekend I noticed a tailor shop that also had shirting material visible in the window. Encouraged, I went back this weekend with 3-4 pants and 3 jackets that I need to have work done to.
Upon entering the shop, I immediately noticed fabric books all over the place, bolts of fabric for both shirting and suits, plus jackets in various stages of construction, as well as patterns, sewing machines and a huge device for steaming.
The gentleman in the shop was finishing a consultation with a client who from the conversation was obviously buying a bespoke suit. He was in his mid 60's, of Cuban descent.
It was also obvious during over conversation that he knew more about tailoring than anyone I had ever encountered, just from his feedback on the way my clothes fit. We got around to the topic of his pricing and he mentioned that he "sewed" clothes for way less than the prices I'd encounter in the city. When I pressed him he said exclusive of fabric cost he could make suits for less than $1000, jackets for $800; trousers for $200.
Cost is important for me, perhaps more than it is to the average bespoke customer. From what I had read in the forum, that seems a great price and I'd like to commission a few pieces of what would eventually be a small versatile bespoke wardrobe.
There is zero feedback of note on the internet. The neighborhood his shop is in is largely immigrant and working class so this doesn't surprise me as his clientele I presume is largely local.
Any tips on determining whether this is my guy or whether I am being seduced by his pricing? I assumed bespoke was out of my reach for a while, but if this guy can deliver than I can start right away. I will receive back from him the stuff I asked him to work on, but I don't know how good a judgement I can make from having some pants hemmed and different buttons sewn on a blazer.
Guys with bespoke experience, please share any tips that might help me decide to give this guy a shot or not, and also how to best communicate what I want if I do.
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,547
Reaction score
718
You have probably found a local artisan who makes something in between MTM and bespoke albeit using a standard set of patterns - that makes it closer to MTM.

He might well produce something for you at a price you want to pay but be very careful that you like his styling BEFORE you order - he may well be fairly set in his ways if his local trade is undiscerning..
 

gringodaddy

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
797
Reaction score
240
Thanks I assumed that the work isn't actually full bespoke at that price point, so I take your point. Any suggestions on sussing out the "house style" or whether he'll actually be any good at producing something outside of that and more to my specs w/o actually buying something?
Fwiw he was very friendly and pleasant, I tend to picture these old school Taylor's as being somewhat more gruff.
 

Kai

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
3,216
Reaction score
811
Have him start with a sport coat. See how it turns out. If it works well, then go on to a full suit.
 

aravenel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
5,625
Reaction score
1,176

You have probably found a local artisan who makes something in between MTM and bespoke albeit using a standard set of patterns - that makes it closer to MTM.

He might well produce something for you at a price you want to pay but be very careful that you like his styling BEFORE you order - he may well be fairly set in his ways if his local trade is undiscerning..

Definitely agree. He could do a great job, but make sure you like his cut before you buy. You could ask to see examples (actual garments best, otherwise photos) to determine.

Have him start with a sport coat. See how it turns out. If it works well, then go on to a full suit.

Good call.
 

JLibourel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,754
Reaction score
467
At those prices, the garments will almost certainly be fused, not that this is necessarily a deal-breaker in my opinion.
 

JLibourel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,754
Reaction score
467

The prices he quoted were exclusive of fabric

^Oh, if those are the prices for CMT, then that's a different matter. I had assumed they were for the complete garment, fabric included.
 

FlyingMonkey

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
4,489
Reaction score
4,519
I would love to have a good tailor in my neighbourhood. If he's good and you understand each other, these guys are a dying breed and they need to be supported IMHO. People always recommend the big name city tailors here, but there are still really good tailors to be found like this. I hope it works out, but as you've already said you will do, start with a simple commission, and see what both the process and the outcome are like.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How wide do you like your leg opening on your trousers?

  • 7”

    Votes: 62 17.4%
  • 7.5”

    Votes: 119 33.3%
  • 8”

    Votes: 105 29.4%
  • 8.5”

    Votes: 39 10.9%
  • 9”

    Votes: 16 4.5%
  • 9.5”

    Votes: 7 2.0%
  • 10”

    Votes: 1 0.3%
  • 10.5”

    Votes: 8 2.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
432,947
Messages
9,281,050
Members
194,789
Latest member
Kicki.m
Top