Handsewn lapels: Oxxford, Rubinacci, and Steed

[Manton]

Not the greatest, but photos but hopefully better than nothing. I tried to chose cloths that show the stitching (i.e., no flannels, and only one tweed, a very tight weave). I did not take pics of my Steed stuff, since that has been covered, but I could if anyone is interested. FWIW, mine is old and made when Mahon and DeBoise were still together.

Another point of interest: Shattuck and this MTM Italian outfit I used to use (based in Naples) always use a front cut, a/k/a sidebodies, a/k/a a dart that goes all the way to the bottom edge. Raphael, Flusser, and all the London makers I have tried never do.

Somewhere in the archives should be detailed photos of my one Nicolosi suit.

Raphael (cotton):

Front edge with buttonholes:

Raphael mohair trouser, loose lap seam (sadly, the coat is in the shop, the work on it is extraordinary, and every seam is lapped):

Flusser (a/k/a Martin Greenfield):

Giacomo Trabalza:

Field:

Tobias (Savile Row; defunct):

Logsdail:

Shattuck:

Lapped rear side seams (he always laps this seam, but no others):

Men's Wearhouse:

 

[emptym]

I too am really grateful for the education.

 

[voxsartoria]

You can just make out the under collar / breast dart in the lapel photo of my Solito:

Look directly under the turnback on the collar, and let the pinstripes guide your eye to it.

In the next photo (a quick iPhone shot, excuse the poor quality), we have another of my DeBoise pieces, a jet black (the horrors! Manton, avert your eyes!) plain worsted suit that I use for dinner and drinks. This shot shows the absence of a front, or chest, dart, but the presence of the underarm dart. This dart is is invisible unless one is flagging a cab, or has just KOed one's opponent in a ring while wearing one's bespoke suit:

This is a single-breasted coat, and shows the handsome belly to the lapel, typical of my samples from Steed. I've not seen such an execution on anything but an expertly handpadded lapel.

- B

 

[Artisan Fan]

This is a very informative thread.

 

[Teacher]

I'm very disappointed in some of the Oxxford pics I've seen here. I just checked my one and only Oxxford (from the 90s, in a 90s gray worsted), and it's very neat and clean. The pic stitching is also nicely done, with just a touch of puckering (have to look closely to notice). I don't mind a little puckering with pick stitching, though, for some reason. I can promise to post a pic, but I doubt I'll get around to it.

 

[Artisan Fan]

Originally Posted by Teacher

I'm very disappointed in some of the Oxxford pics I've seen here. I just checked my one and only Oxxford (from the 90s, in a 90s gray worsted), and it's very neat and clean. The pic stitching is also nicely done, with just a touch of puckering (have to look closely to notice). I don't mind a little puckering with pick stitching, though, for some reason. I can promise to post a pic, but I doubt I'll get around to it.

I have some Oxxford pics I might put up. Some of my suits are neat and clean on the lapel.

 

[LabelKing]

Did you add that flower holder to that Men's Wearhouse suit/

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Caraceni Rome - horrible pics, I know:

 

[dopey]

I just unpacked these from a long weekend vacation so they were handy. Both are Dege:

 

[Artisan Fan]

Originally Posted by dopey

I just unpacked these from a long weekend vacation so they were handy. Both are Dege:




Love the plaid fabric in the second photo.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

This is a very informative thread.

Seeing you post, AF, reminds me to dig out the one Edgar Pomeroy that I have...I know you are a big fan...

- B

 

[Mildly Consumptive]

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

Love the plaid fabric in the second photo.

Agreed. Dopey, do you know who makes that tweed? Is it Hunters of Brora/ North Highland Tweed Co? It kind of looks like 604.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

Love the plaid fabric in the second photo.
Thanks. It's a favorite and I love the fit as well. If they could reproduce the cut and fit reliably, I would never have strayed. In fact, I asked them to make the other one (the blue windowpane) fit like the first (made some 7 or so years earlier) but it just didn't come out the same way).

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Mildly Consumptive

Agreed. Dopey, do you know who makes that tweed? Is it Hunters of Brora/ North Highland Tweed Co? It kind of looks like 604.

I think it is, though it was identified by Dege as a House Check way back when. It may very well have started as such and then made by Hunters as one of their regular offerings.

Not that you asked, but he other is a standard P&H offering and there is really nothing wrong with it. I don't like seeing it treated like an ugly sister.

 

[Zegnamtl]

Manton,

When I snap the contrast levels up on the cotton suit, it appears to be the one that shows the most needle work on the back side, is that a side effect of the fabric choice?

As for the Mark's Men's Warehouse, do you recall the year it was patched together?