Grenson Handgrade?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rabiesinfrance, Jul 30, 2011.

Tags:
  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,410
    Likes Received:
    2,987
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon

    Got it in two. Go back and read the anecdote about June Swann and "64 to the inch."

    Additionally, it's near-as-nevermind a self-evident truth that if an RTW maker does not need to pay for premium insole shoulder...because they are gemming rather than sewing directly to the insole, for instance...they will not. Why should they?

    In turn, as consumer acceptance of GY becomes more widespread, the demand for quality insole shoulder diminishes.

    Tanneries close.

    And pretty soon those that are left have to raise their prices to compensate for the lack of demand. As a result, manufacturers face even steeper prices...if it ever occurred to them to go back to better quality. And the whole industry, from manufacturer to bespoke maker, ends up with a scarce resource at higher prices. Eventually, because cheaper insole material is being used, it supplants the better quality in the minds of the consumer. And then the better stuff disappears entirely.

    That's when the whole cycle begins anew.

    Yes
    No. Superficialities...that's what you're really talking about. With no bearing on longevity or structural integrity.

    Fit is another thing altogether. Another aspect for another thread...but suffice it to say if you're buying RTW, in all likelihood you've never really been fit.

    I think design, shape and finishing are critical to presentation and to marketing. I want the shoes I make to be as well finished and well designed as I can possibly make them. It is a lifelong pursuit. But it has nothing to do with objective quality except as an indicator, perhaps, of whether quality was ever a real concern in the making.

    Bottom line, to buy a pair of shoes (any product or artifact)...at any price point...without knowing how they are made and what goes into them, knowing only the brand name and depending on that alone to provide some verisimilitude of quality is to be, by definition a "brand whore." It's not buying substance, it's buying pretense. Image.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011


  2. rabiesinfrance

    rabiesinfrance Senior member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2010
    http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/grenson-pitti-uomo-2012

    There's some new stuff coming out. Looking forward to their top-end stuff.

    Bit wary of their current Rose line - the shoes I looked at were not fully leather-lined, which is something you should expect at over £200. The Grenson Bleasdale had crappy white metal ski-hooks (definitely a drop in quality from last year).
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011


  3. whereIGetSocks

    whereIGetSocks Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2011
    Do I not bother with shoes until I'm ready to stump up GBP 3,500? Treat my feet with vinegar? :)

    DWFII; who do you consider to be the best lower middle RTW makers?

    Cheers,
    WIGS
     


  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,410
    Likes Received:
    2,987
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    
    Well, while I appreciate the compliment in asking my opinion, the truth is that I don't concern myself that much with comparisons of RTW shoes. I suspect that to a very real degree they are all similar in quality...from $200.00 to $2000.00. Design, finish and brand cachet are the real distinguishing characteristics and the real basis for price differences. I think you can probably get a handmade shoe of admirable, if not exceptional, quality for half the price you quoted in your post. Esp. if you are willing to look a little further afield.
     


  5. whereIGetSocks

    whereIGetSocks Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2011
    DWFII,

    Thank you for the reply. I had a ramble through some other threads and understand re the naming names.

    Good luck re the shoes side of things.

    Cheers,
    WIGS
     


  6. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Likes Received:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England
    Looks like there maybe some developments with the higher end Grensons, looks like there will be some exclusively on Mr Porter .com in the next couple weeks and then appearing on Grenson website in November.

    Hi Kevin,

    Grenson Shoes wrote "Coming exclusively to mr porter.com within the next couple of weeks and Grenson.com in November"
     


  7. rabiesinfrance

    rabiesinfrance Senior member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2010
    Like bloody Meerkats :happy:
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2011


  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    8,140
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    

    sorry very belated response Bengal, but are these outworkers operating from their backyard sheds or r they based in factories in Northhampton or what? Some would prob do a roaring trade if they advertised on SF etc
     


  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut
    

    i suspect that. how many sf-orders did the guy from northhampton - sorry, i forgot his name - receive? ten or twelve in three years? if, i'm wrong. i stand corrected.
     


  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    8,140
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    

    didn't advertise tho- how many of us actually knew about him? also, not number one quality shoes from what i've seen
     


  11. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

    Messages:
    6,964
    Likes Received:
    126
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    Who are you guys talking about ?
     


  12. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    

    I think his name is Cliff
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2011


  13. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Likes Received:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England


  14. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London


  15. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,465
    Likes Received:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Location:
    Northern England
    

    If theres anything else you need help with give me a shout Stephen !!! :fence: :lol:
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2011


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by