French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[dauster]

My 2 cents on Parisian shirtmaking.
- Lanvin is dead, sad though.
- Mary Frittolini stopped but is active on social media indeed. I had one shirt made. Beautiful work I must admit but the collar was a tad rigid for me.
- I had 10 shirts made by Lucca. He used to be really good but one a very specific style. Then the quality went down the drain for some reason. A charming man.
- I have 8 shirts from Courtot. Probably one of the best options in Paris and the man is also very pleasant.
- Charvet is overpriced and not worth it but I must admit their fabric floor is to die for. Also the only place where one would find Zendalyne.
- Daniel Levy has good press but have never seen nor ordered anything.
- plenty of Industrial MTM makers That aren’t worth anything
- Camps de Luca and Cifonelli offer bespoke shirts. Pricey.
- I can’t step into Berluti. Had a terrible experience and giving money to LVMH pains me, to some extent. I’ve got to turn a blind eye when it comes to Loro Piana.
- Jean Manuel Moreau makes beautiful shirts but made in Italy. I’ve got many and am very happy.
- He’s one of my three shirt makers with Luca Avitabile and 100Hands (best make out there).

What went wrong with Berluti ?

Thanks for sharing, super interested even though unlikely that I will get to try any of them soon.

 

[SeamasterLux]

What went wrong with Berluti ?

Thanks for sharing, super interested even though unlikely that I will get to try any of them soon.

the welcome was lukewarm and condescending at best. I wasn’t wearing any tailoring that day, but so what. That kind of old school “let’s check who just came in” is what keeps me far from such brands. Mind you, my experience was similar at Smalto.
There are enough charming artisans, shop owners in Paris that one does not have to suffer sales staff’s condescending behaviour.

 

[Aydee_g]

the welcome was lukewarm and condescending at best. I wasn’t wearing any tailoring that day, but so what. That kind of old school “let’s check who just came in” is what keeps me far from such brands. Mind you, my experience was similar at Smalto.
There are enough charming artisans, shop owners in Paris that one does not have to suffer sales staff’s condescending behaviour.

Im so sorry to read that... ☹️ Indeed that kind of condescendant attitude is the worst and being there for a year now I can’t disagree with you, I know exactly what you mean. Nonetheless if one day you would want to visit our bespoke atelier contact me. You won’t even have to step in one of the shops! ?

 

[SeamasterLux]

Im so sorry to read that... ☹ Indeed that kind of condescendant attitude is the worst and being there for a year now I can’t disagree with you, I know exactly what you mean. Nonetheless if one day you would want to visit our bespoke atelier contact me. You won’t even have to step in one of the shops! ?

Hi Aydee. It's kind of you to offer. I also met the head of bespoke shoemaking who was actually charming. But that wasn't at the atelier but at our common eyewear maker, Ateliers Baudin.
Who knows, I might be tempted to at least check what the artisans are making...

 

[Aidanaidan]

This product is good and cost is low that is more interested.

 

[dauster]

the welcome was lukewarm and condescending at best. I wasn’t wearing any tailoring that day, but so what. That kind of old school “let’s check who just came in” is what keeps me far from such brands. Mind you, my experience was similar at Smalto.
There are enough charming artisans, shop owners in Paris that one does not have to suffer sales staff’s condescending behaviour.

understood, that's a big turn off from the get go. For me dealing with Berluti bespoke shoes "division" was the opposite. I walked in with flip flops and shorts and Jean Michel and Paul (French guy who runs the Singapore shop) could not have been nicer. Unfortunately, covid has delayed my shoes for now.

 

[dauster]

Hi Aydee. It's kind of you to offer. I also met the head of bespoke shoemaking who was actually charming. But that wasn't at the atelier but at our common eyewear maker, Ateliers Baudin.
Who knows, I might be tempted to at least check what the artisans are making...

I think you have a fair share of Stark and Sons suits, correct? So was Stark and Sons recently just renamed Atelier De Luca? Based on the explanation of one of the De Luca sons on the call with Hugo Jacomet it seems that they also changed the process quite a bit. Is that true ?

 

[SeamasterLux]

I think you have a fair share of Stark and Sons suits, correct? So was Stark and Sons recently just renamed Atelier De Luca? Based on the explanation of one of the De Luca sons on the call with Hugo Jacomet it seems that they also changed the process quite a bit. Is that true ?

I do have a few. Yes it was. They took over when Mr Stark died. The product was honestly dreadful so they revamped everything, from A to Z. They are now making in Italy, most of the process. The rest is done in Paris. It’s definitely one step above normal MTM.
The quality has nothing to do with what Stark was. I’m happy as well that they’re putting their name to it.

 

[dauster]

I do have a few. Yes it was. They took over when Mr Stark died. The product was honestly dreadful so they revamped everything, from A to Z. They are now making in Italy, most of the process. The rest is done in Paris. It’s definitely one step above normal MTM.
The quality has nothing to do with what Stark was. I’m happy as well that they’re putting their name to it.

Interesting, from the looks of it on instagram they kept a few Starks and sons pics on the Atelier De Luca account and I assume the new ones are made in Italy and no longer in Spain/ Portugal.

EDIT: also while I really appreciate the honesty in your assessment that the product was dreadful before, it does worry me that I heard only really good things about Starks and sons before... Kirby for one is a guy who recommended it... makes you question certain "views". Anyways, more interested in the real bespoke option but given that they dont come to the US it's worth entertaining given the easier process.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Interesting, from the looks of it on instagram they kept a few Starks and sons pics on the Atelier De Luca account and I assume the new ones are made in Italy and no longer in Spain/ Portugal.

EDIT: also while I really appreciate the honesty in your assessment that the product was dreadful before, it does worry me that I heard only really good things about Starks and sons before... Kirby for one is a guy who recommended it... makes you question certain "views". Anyways, more interested in the real bespoke option but given that they dont come to the US it's worth entertaining given the easier process.

just to clarify, the product was dreadful before they took over. They directly improved it with a test with a Portuguese maker but quickly changed to an Italian one. Stark under their management was then much better. The enhancement started as soon as they took over and when they switched to the Italian workshop which was like 6-9 months in, it made a whole difference. Most pieces I’ve got are from the Italian atelier and branded Stark. But the make of Atelier de Luca is the same as when it was called Stark with the Italian maker.
Makes sense?

To summarise:

1. stark before they arrived: dreadful
2. Stark when they took over and first 6-9 months: Portuguese maker I think and it was ok but the Luca Family was just discovering MTM and it took them time to discover all possibilities
3. Stark when they switched to the Italian maker: much better product. Highest tier of MTM on the market
4. Atelier de Luca rebranding: no Change to the product so still excellent

 

[dauster]

just to clarify, the product was dreadful before they took over. They directly improved it with a test with a Portuguese maker but quickly changed to an Italian one. Stark under their management was then much better. The enhancement started as soon as they took over and when they switched to the Italian workshop which was like 6-9 months in, it made a whole difference. Most pieces I’ve got are from the Italian atelier and branded Stark. But the make of Atelier de Luca is the same as when it was called Stark with the Italian maker.
Makes sense?

To summarise:

1. stark before they arrived: dreadful
2. Stark when they took over and first 6-9 months: Portuguese maker I think and it was ok but the Luca Family was just discovering MTM and it took them time to discover all possibilities
3. Stark when they switched to the Italian maker: much better product. Highest tier of MTM on the market
4. Atelier de Luca rebranding: no Change to the product so still excellent

Ok now it makes sense. thanks for clarifying!!!

 

[MontyLo]

First Smalto pickup: RTW in tan cotton

It looks nice enough and my tailor made some minor adjustments. It’ll have to wait for warmer weather, though.

 

[dauster]

First Smalto pickup: RTW in tan cotton

It looks nice enough and my tailor made some minor adjustments. It’ll have to wait for warmer weather, though.

cool, do you have any pics wearing it?

 

[corpseposeur]

If I didn't already have two bespoke suits that are stuck in limbo due to travel restrictions, I'd be very interested in Kenjiro Suzuki in Paris. I first learned about this tailor through this Permanent Style article: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/07/kenjiro-suzuki-bespoke-paris-review.html

 

[dauster]

If I didn't already have two bespoke suits that are stuck in limbo due to travel restrictions, I'd be very interested in Kenjiro Suzuki in Paris. I first learned about this tailor through this Permanent Style article: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/07/kenjiro-suzuki-bespoke-paris-review.html

I like what I saw on IG but I did notice I fairly high button point on his jackets, not sure if I like that.