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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Lucca does the scissor-to-collar schtick. Courtot does not.
    Mary Frittolini probably does it too, judging from @SeamasterLux's shirt with customized rounded collar.
     
  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Yes, Mary did that on me. Large scissors next to your face, a little shocking to tell you the truth.
     
  3. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Senior member

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    Some nice news: Lanvin got recognized as a "Living Heritage Company" ("Enterprise du Patrimoine Vivant") by the French government. And no, this is not for their rhinestones-clad sneakers; as Lanvin's news page says, it received the label "for its Made-to-Measure menswear department founded in 1926".

    Go to http://www.lanvin.com/#/en/news, then click one of rectangles (third from the left at the moment) to see the certificate.

    Andrey
     
    2 people like this.
  4. Monty L

    Monty L Senior member

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    All this Charvet talk has me lusting for another order. I went Demi m├Ęsure while abroad because I was only in Paris for a few days. Having had my three shirts for quite some time (1 since February and 2 since August) I have found a few things I'd like to tweak that are probably outside the realm of mtm. Service has been exceptional and I plan on sticking with Charvet as they have gotten so close on the early attempts. It's just too bad I hadn't ordered the collar on my third shirt (lavender) for all of them as I find it the most flattering.

    The order that came this summer. Loving the slippers...

    [​IMG]

    And my original white royal Oxford before a recent interview (lighting is terrible, suit should be navy and tie ought to be wine colored)

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    I like the zero gap. I am not sure how this S thing is going to turn out. It is not a button down, you know.
     
  6. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    There is no such thing? You sure about that? What if they put the collar on you and you accepted it as is. Still not a "house" collar? If they designed it, then it is considered a house collar.

    Maybe this is better:


    FTFY
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2014
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I think that's why they're called head cutters.
     
    4 people like this.
  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Mary also rips open all the seams on your shirt so she can pin and readjust the seams. When the shirt sleeves came off, I didn't think this sort of stuff happened outside a Chippendales, let alone to me. That said, I think it is an effective method. I could see after each step how creases or folds were being removed one after the other.
     
  9. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Mary did it as well with me

    And she does readjust the shirt by removing light stitching and replacing the different parts with pins. It's quite an effective way to work.
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    the cut one is better.

    How was the day at Maison Bonnet?
     
  11. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    haha
     
  12. Stone

    Stone Senior member

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    Her doing that to me had me considering - for a moment - whether I could pull off a sleeveless dress shirt. (Didn't James Bond wear them in one of the novels?)
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2014
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wtf is the matter with you?


    I don't think you can tell much based on the pinned trial shirt, though Dirnelli can attest that Catherine spent quite a long time tweaking. The fitting took more than an hour.

    To clear up the "house" collar business: the point I was making is simply that it is part of the process for them to attach a stock collar and then trim to shape. It's not that I asked them to diverge from their house style--the collar was never meant to be left as is.



    Good service, but I was disappointed by their new premises. I never got to see the old workshop, but now they operate out of a very anonymous luxury/designer style shop. It could be a very high end Sunglass Hut if you didn't know better. I'll give more detail later. Falling asleep.
     
  14. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    apologies for that. at this point we should know you can't help yourself.... please do continue to educate everyone on how whatever maker you discover works.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    ^Just like this. Looking forward to the 20 page threak on how one of these makers did you wrong. (By the way I was just specifying which of the 2 collars that I thought nice.)
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm sorry, did I stumble onto the wrong website?I thought this was a discussion forum about men's clothing.


    Your comment further obscured information that might actually be helpful to prospective bespoke clients. We have often discussed the risks of asking a tailor to diverge from its house style and I wanted to be clear that this is not one of those cases.

    That said, I do see your point about attempting to "educate everyone." Next time I will put my latent telepathy to use and PM my comments to all forum members other than those who already know what I'm going to say.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Perfect! Then you'll not ruin another thread with your presence. Good luck with the shirt.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As I brush up on my telepathy, I can also take a stab at righting myself to be the correct sort for speaking in such illustrious threads as this one. Educate me. Am I too American? Do I look too Chinese? Do I not make enough money? Too much money? Should I not be making money at all? Too young? Too short? Please let me know so I can undergo the necessary procedures.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
  20. jedwards

    jedwards Senior member

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    Why does everything have to become a personalised argument on here... Yawn.

    I clicked on this thread to read about French tailors as I wanted to learn more about the difference between French, Italian and British after having several of the latter 2 made for me but none of the former and had read some stuff on other blogs about CDL and Smalto which looked pretty sharp.

    Now it looks like this thread is going to be ruined by pointless bickering.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014

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