Folded Up Shirt P0rn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 23, 2007.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I get placket buttons because I find it more elegant than a long unbuttoned placket that gapes open and shows the arm.

    Same here. Its hardly the sign of RTW.
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I get placket buttons because I find it more elegant than a long unbuttoned placket that gapes open and shows the arm.

    are we talking french or barrel cuff? ...and, who did say that the placket is long then. it's as long as its needed. a good shirtmaker takes care of this. i admit, there might be regional differences...

    fwiw, my shirtmaker pointed me there, in telling me that only m....s have a button there. i trust him and i love the button free feeling. it's more elegant and a sign of taste... [​IMG]
     


  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    What does "m....s" mean? Anyhow, a short placket is not very functional for someone who likes to roll up his sleeves. I'm sure you love your shirtmaker with passion and trust him, but I've never heard a shirtmaker says that a gauntlet button is a RTW feature that's not necessary on a custom shirt.

    Understand that I'm not bickering over the preference of having a button or not, I'm simply trying to understand why anyone would say that it's reserved for RTW. I see how two buttons on a cuff or multiple holes in a belt are RTW features that are unnecessary for custom but this one I can't even start to understand.
     


  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    are we talking french or barrel cuff? ...and, who did say that the placket is long then. it's as long as its needed. a good shirtmaker takes care of this. i admit, there might be regional differences...

    fwiw, my shirtmaker pointed me there, in telling me that only m....s have a button there. i trust him and i love the button free feeling. it's more elegant and a sign of taste... [​IMG]


    You're welcome to your personal opinion, but often when someone challenges one of your didactic remarks, you trot out the ol' 'regional differences', 'my shirtmaker/tailor told me' etc. [​IMG]

    I've had everyone from Charvet to Hilditch to Geneva advise me to use a gauntlet button.
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I guess if the maker makes the gauntlet really short, then it won't need a button. I still like the button, though not for BDs.
     


  6. sartorialexecutive

    sartorialexecutive Well-Known Member

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    I guess if the maker makes the gauntlet really short, then it won't need a button. I still like the button, though not for BDs.

    or as mentioned on Coles website...

    an over and under gauntlet. This consists of two pieces of fabric either side of the sleeve opening above the cuff. These keep the sleeve together in wear and prevent "gaping." This does away with the need to have a "button in gauntlet" which is a cheaper option often used to keep the sleeve closed when gauntlets have been dispensed with.
     


  7. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I still like the button, though not for BDs.
    Why not?
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Why not?

    Seems "wrong" because the BB version never had one.
     


  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    You're welcome to your personal opinion, but often when someone challenges one of your didactic remarks, you trot out the ol' 'regional differences', 'my shirtmaker/tailor told me' etc. [​IMG]

    I've had everyone from Charvet to Hilditch to Geneva advise me to use a gauntlet button.


    ET, it's not didactic. ...and yes, there are regional differences. not that I know of all.

    same would apply, that these folks advised you to use one on a french cuff. i cannot believe this, sorry. [​IMG]
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    What does "m....s" mean? Anyhow, a short placket is not very functional for someone who likes to roll up his sleeves. I'm sure you love your shirtmaker with passion and trust him, but I've never heard a shirtmaker says that a gauntlet button is a RTW feature that's not necessary on a custom shirt.

    Understand that I'm not bickering over the preference of having a button or not, I'm simply trying to understand why anyone would say that it's reserved for RTW. I see how two buttons on a cuff or multiple holes in a belt are RTW features that are unnecessary for custom but this one I can't even start to understand.


    you roll up french cuff shirts. tell me more...

    it's not about a love affair between my shirtmaker and me. i just trust his advise - old school. no more or less.

    you'll probably will not here it in the diction of being solely a RTW-feature but maybe he directs you w/o even knowing he does.

    some might be lost in translation, cause this is not my mother tongue. so be it.
     


  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    When did this discussion become about French cuffs? teddieriley's post you replied to with your definitive statement was clearly about gauntlet buttons on barrel cuffs. I think we're all talking about barrel cuffs here, except maybe for spalla who's talking about... well no one ever knows what this guy is talking about.

    I agree that French cuffs look cleaner without a gauntlet button - it's consistent with the absence of button at the cuff.
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Seems to me that a gauntlet button is more necessary for FC than for BC.
     


  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Seems to me that a gauntlet button is more necessary for FC than for BC.

    I disagree with that. You can get a very short placket with a FC because you'll never roll it up so you don't need the functionality of a longer slit.
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    When did this discussion become about French cuffs? teddieriley's post was about gauntlet buttons on barrel cuffs. I think we're all talking about barrel cuffs here,...

    ...am not talking about td. that's long gone, also due he's not participating atm.

    i mentioned the french cuffs.

    ...and i was talking about general rules applying to the different kinds of cuffs, especially old school. not very innovative, i know. but so i am, very conservative.

    btw, no button on my barrels, too ...also no gaping at all. [​IMG]
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    But with a button cuff, the two gauntlet panels will always neatly overlap. With an FC, they won't. They need the button or else they will gape.
     


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