First Bespoke Jacket--Critique Please

[kaxixi]

I went to GShen's tailor in Singapore to have some trousers copied, and ended up ordering an unlined linen blazersuit (TM used without permission) because I've been frustrated in my attempts to find a suitable (no pun intended) OTR blazer. Chris, please pardon the infidelity. Here are the pictures from the first fitting, for the jacket only:

The quarters and lapels are obviously unfinished. The quarters will be opened a bit as they're rounded. The gorge on the lapel will be roughly where it currently peaks. The tailor already suggested the following changes: 1) Adding a little room in the chest as it appears to pull 2) Removing excess fabric from the back In addition, I made the following requests: 1) Trim the lapels by .25" 2) Raise the chest pocket by 1 cm 3) Raise the roll so that it begins halfway between the middle and top button (3 roll 2.5) instead of immediately above the middle button Any other suggestions?

 

[Despos]

I don't see what is pulling in the chest.
Make lapels wider .25 not narrow.
Pockets look oversized. Big pockets, small lapels won't jive.
Balance and fit look good.

 

[apropos]

Ah, were you fitted by Nani? She's quite a character, no?

All IMO:

1. Leave the lapels just the way they are. I think they look great 'as is'.
2. Remember to leave a little 'allowance' for wrinkles in the linen when determining sleeve length - i.e. leave them a tiny little bit longer, because as the day goes on and you move about the wrinkles around your elbow will cause the sleeve to 'shorten' a wee bit.
3. The chest pocket looks a tiny bit big to my eyes.

PS: details on the cloth please!

 

[kaxixi]

Originally Posted by Despos

I don't see what is pulling in the chest.
That's because she buttoned it without any overlap. With the required overlap, it pulls.

Originally Posted by Despos

Make lapels wider .25 not narrow.
Pockets look oversized. Big pockets, small lapels won't jive.

OK. I can shrink the pockets, too. My reasoning was that it is wide relative to my face.

Originally Posted by Despos

Balance and fit look good.

Thanks.

 

[kaxixi]

Originally Posted by apropos

Ah, were you fitted by Nani? She's quite a character, no?

All IMO:

1. Leave the lapels just the way they are. I think they look great 'as is'.
2. Remember to leave a little 'allowance' for wrinkles in the linen when determining sleeve length - i.e. leave them a tiny little bit longer, because as the day goes on and you move about the wrinkles around your elbow will cause the sleeve to 'shorten' a wee bit.
3. The chest pocket looks a tiny bit big to my eyes.

PS: details on the cloth please!

Yes, Nani and her partner, both. She is indeed a character, but I like her quite a bit--she's done a good job on my alterations so far.

Do you think the sleeves are too short? I think they are just right/on the long side, so will leave as is unless you suggest otherwise.

Fabric is their in-house, basic offering. They told me the mill, but I didn't recognize it. If you'd like, I'll ask again.

 

[chorse123]

The "quarters" look really square. Maybe it's just because of the fitting, but it looks off to me.

 

[benjamin831]

Originally Posted by chorse123

The "quarters" look really square. Maybe it's just because of the fitting, but it looks off to me.

Perhaps they haven't yet cut the quarters. In my experience, quarters are cut until after the first fitting.

The jacket seems a bit short, but perhaps that is your style.

Overall, the jacket looks great and fits pretty well. Sleeve pitch, back, waist, lapels seem to all check out.

May I ask if this jacket is canvassed or not? The black material on the lapel looks awfully like fusible material.

 

[kaxixi]

Quarters have not yet been cut. Jacket is canvassed--no fusing.

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by kaxixi

Do you think the sleeves are too short? I think they are just right/on the long side, so will leave as is unless you suggest otherwise.

Fabric is their in-house, basic offering. They told me the mill, but I didn't recognize it. If you'd like, I'll ask again.
The sleeves look fine as is. The wrinkles 'shortening' the sleeve are just something to consider.

That would be much appreciated, but please do not go out of your way to ask for the material make.

I'm curious because it looks a little more substantial than the linen jackets you usually see on this site.

Originally Posted by chorse123

The "quarters" look really square. Maybe it's just because of the fitting, but it looks off to me.
He's mentioned in the OP that the quarters have not been 'rounded off' yet.

Originally Posted by benjamin831

May I ask if this jacket is canvassed or not? The black material on the lapel looks awfully like fusible material.
FWIW, wool canvas comes in many colours - from red to black to cream to grey.

http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/ca...oducts_id=1191

 

[Axelman 17]

Looks quite good, may be a preference issue but to me:

1. Jacket looks 1" short
2. Skirt flares out in a way that looks unflattering (is it because you have wide hips?)

 

[dopey]

I know you want a trendy short cut, but that looks too short for you. And not just because it is trendy, but because it makes the hip flare look odd. If they can't slim the hips down for you, then I suggest you really think about lengthening the coat. Not only will that help control the flare, but I think the flare will look better as it is.

But overall, they did a nice job and I blame you for the major flaw

 

[Montauk]

The only thing I'd really recommend doing is lowering the gorge a bit. It's a bit extreme as is, which will date the jacket quickly. Bespoke shouldn't be ever be too trendy.

 

[Vintage Gent]

At this point, I'll echo a few of the points others have brought up, but they bear repeating: (1) the jacket is too short, even by SF standards and (2) don't narrow the lapels.

 

[TheFoo]

I agree with Dopey and Despos: it looks too short and the lapels could stand to be wider. Personally, I'd like to see a slightly lower gorge. With the jacket length already on the short side, a super-high gorge enhances the impression that the whole jacket is being pulled up and off of you from behind.

 

[amplifiedheat]

Jacket too short. Gorge too high. Need to learn fundamentals.