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First Bespoke Jacket--Critique Please

kaxixi

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Thanks.

I brought one pair of trousers to Field's in DC and he said he'll fix the balance by shortening the rear rise (gchen, isn't this what you suggested?). He'll also let them out in the seat a bit as they're a touch tight.

Lets see how they fit when he's done--if it's an improvement, I may send them back to Nani so she can adjust her master according to his work. (I told him I'd be doing this.)
 

Caffeine

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In my past experience I think that the flannel for your pants is too stretchy. Perhaps flannel is generally more stretchy but I personally don't like the knee area and the back picture. Adding lining at least through half of the leg might help - for your next pair.
 

clee1982

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Originally Posted by kaxixi
Thanks.

I brought one pair of trousers to Field's in DC and he said he'll fix the balance by shortening the rear rise (gchen, isn't this what you suggested?). He'll also let them out in the seat a bit as they're a touch tight.

Lets see how they fit when he's done--if it's an improvement, I may send them back to Nani so she can adjust her master according to his work. (I told him I'd be doing this.)


Any result picture?
 

a tailor

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Originally Posted by kaxixi
I went to GShen's tailor in Singapore to have some trousers copied, and ended up ordering an unlined linen blazersuit (TM used without permission) because I've been frustrated in my attempts to find a suitable (no pun intended) OTR blazer. Chris, please pardon the infidelity.

Here are the pictures from the first fitting, for the jacket only:

IMG_3242.jpg

IMG_3243.jpg

IMG_3244.jpg


The quarters and lapels are obviously unfinished. The quarters will be opened a bit as they're rounded. The gorge on the lapel will be roughly where it currently peaks. The tailor already suggested the following changes:

1) Adding a little room in the chest as it appears to pull
2) Removing excess fabric from the back

In addition, I made the following requests:

1) Trim the lapels by .25"
2) Raise the chest pocket by 1 cm
3) Raise the roll so that it begins halfway between the middle and top button (3 roll 2.5) instead of immediately above the middle button

Any other suggestions?


jacket length 1 1/4" too short.
back is fine. smaller and you cant move.
wider lapels please.
yes roll higher.
chest looks fine.
 

kaxixi

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Originally Posted by clee1982
Any result picture?

No. Widening the seat also widened the waist too much and I think I need to take them back to him to be readjusted.
 

kaxixi

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Originally Posted by a tailor
jacket length 1 1/4" too short. back is fine. smaller and you cant move. wider lapels please. yes roll higher. chest looks fine.
Any additional suggestions on the finished jacket (here). I would like to advise Nani on modifications prior to ordering a second one. Should I... -- Make the front longer? -- Adjust the button stance? -- Make the shoulders wider? Thanks. Edit: Shouldn't be lazy... here's a pic from the front:
IMG_3258.jpg
 

gshen

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-- Make the front longer? Personal preference obv, but I vote Yes
-- Adjust the button stance? Definitely, and cut quarters a bit more open
-- Make the shoulders wider? Looks ok now - but if you are getting a structured jacket the width might need adjustment?



Think you can go even wider on the lapel width.
 

kaxixi

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Anyone else? Can't tell if you guys like it as is, or agree with GShen.
 

Slewfoot

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It definitely looks better than just about anything you see most guys wearing. That being said, I'd be inclined to lower the next jacket's length and button stance. Tough to say how much but, around 3/4 - 1 an inch should do it. Just my $0.2.
 

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