Expanding a suit a wardrobe- need solid shirt advice please!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HK Ace, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. HK Ace

    HK Ace Member

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    So I have been collecting suits and a few ties these past few months...mostly variations of grey or navy striped suits I bought:

    Ralph Lauren Black Label
    Sartoria Parma (Caruso-made)
    Canali x 2 (loosest but had them taken in quite a bit so fit nicely enough)
    Corneliani
    Looking for solid 2-button suits now (only have a navy one...not a nice one either)

    Now I need shirts and all I see are striped shirts. I can easily pick those up (RLBL, for instance) on eBay but I am having a hard time finding solid white and solid light blue shirts. I prefer slim but even the regular RLPL shirts fit fine- I just have them taken in slightly. I am not too slim so Extra Slim or Prada/Versace shirts MAY be too tight.

    I don't really like the quality of BB or Charles Trywhitt (hate overly stiff collars) but I need shirts that look nice and look expensive, while being of good quality. Any brands and websites I should focus on where I can find some good deals? I'm size 15.5 & 34/35. This would be very useful info for me. I can then keep an eye out- I still have a few months before my next job starts, but I want to be ready with everything altered and ready to go.

    Lastly,will any other colors besides white and blue work? Some occasions/meetings are with a younger/stylish group of executives while others will be be older/conservative executives. I have brown skin and black hair, being of Indian heritage. I'm 6 ft tall and 180 lbs. I wear 42R...for context. Thanks!!
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2013


  2. Magnanimist

    Magnanimist Active Member

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    www.ledbury.com

    High quality fabrics, great quality, great selection, great fit.

    I am just about your height/weight. Their slim fit is spot on for me.

    For business, white, blue, and light grey are staples. Conservative stripes are good as well. If you venture into checks, you're starting to introduce less formality. Not out of bounds, but I'd stick with graph checks or subdued Tattersalls..Gingham would be too much.

    Given your skin color, lean more toward navy/blue suits, white shirts, and bolder red/yellow/orange ties. You need more contrast.
     


  3. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    Lilac (also: pink, ecru, and you could consider light grey)
     


  4. HK Ace

    HK Ace Member

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    Ah yes- lilac is great. Light grey too. I'll keep an eye out for those two. Any brands or websites to keep an eye on , besides eBay and here?
     


  5. Stiva

    Stiva Senior member

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    Read the discussion on mafoofan's recent thread on the oneshirt. Once you have waded through the idiosyncrasy, certain immutable truths reveal themselves. They are: (1) colours - white (sparingly; see Manton's post on how to wear a white shirt), blue and pink; and (2) patterns - plain, bengal stripe and gingham (small or large gingham; ignore the foo prejudice against the former). Any other stripe or check is strident, confusing, insipid or all three (this doesn't exclude wearing the wool/cotton blend winter checks like tattersalls, etc in the right context; ignore the Manton prejudice on this).

    You are lucky, in that even if you believe the skin tone pseudoscience these colours will all suit you.

    As with any truth in these confused times, there are exceptions. The principal one in this context is rich purple (not lilac, lavender or any of the other weakling tones), or emerald green gingham, with a light brown/tan/beige/etc suit.

    Any pattern should have white ground only. And never more than two colours in a shirt (including your white ground).

    As to suppliers, you will probably never be truly satisfied re collar, etc until you have gone down the MTM or bespoke route. Failing that, try Thomas Pink or TM Lewin.
     


  6. HK Ace

    HK Ace Member

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    Odd how the moderator keeps holding my posts. Anyway, thanks for that- I like those colors too. Any websites to focus on besides eBay and STP? Seems like striped shirts are all over the place, but solid shirts are harder to find...at a good price anyway.
     


  7. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Paul Fredrick, T.M. Lewin, and whatever is at the local Nordstrom.
     


  8. HK Ace

    HK Ace Member

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    Thanks, I'll go to the Nordstom and Rack this weekend, as well as check out that Ledbury site. I think 15.5/35 is perfect if slim fit and a regular fit can be tailored in if the shirt is nice, and the price decent.
     


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