Eidos Napoli

[NickPollica]



Hiya Antonio,

This looks to be a Tipo, correct?

http://www1.bloomingdales.com/shop/...2&ppp=180&sp=1&rid=&spc=36&cm_kws=Eidos &pn=1

Also, any insight into the cloth? Heavy? Light? Still waiting for you guys to get some traction in Atlanta. Hopefully will be able to try some stuff on in person soon.

All jackets at bloomingdales (no matter what the photos look like online) are the Balthazar now. The balthazar is what we developed the Tipo off of - same exact fit just a cm shorter with slightly more narrow, bellied lapels and a two button closure.

I designed the cloth in my favorite fall quality from Lanificio di Pray - their mid-weight wool flannel. Really nice scale on the tooth.

We probably won't get into Atlanta any time soon as the only store I would consider being sold in is Sid Mashburn and he's not expanding tailoring at the moment.

 

[TtownMD]

Thank you for posting price is not bad & just ordered this, my first edios sport coat.

 

[dieworkwear]

Just noticed today that young Bruce Springsteen vaguely looks like Antonio.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Just noticed today that young Bruce Springsteen vaguely looks like Antonio.

Whoa, he sure does.

 

[sacafotos]

Surprisingly, the Balthazar in a 48R fits me perfectly in every way except sleeve length. For me:

Tipo: 46S (needs to be opened up)
Tenero: 46S/R (needs to be opened up)
Balthazar: 48R

I'm 5'7, 155 lbs.

Wish Saks carried the gun check with cream over check in a size 46, but I guess that's up to the buyer.

Some pretty fabrics this season. Love it.

 

[NickPollica]



Just noticed today that young Bruce Springsteen vaguely looks like Antonio.

Busted...

One day we'll look back on this, and it will all seem funny.

 

[NickPollica]



Surprisingly, the Balthazar in a 48R fits me perfectly in every way except sleeve length. For me:

Tipo: 46S (needs to be opened up)
Tenero: 46S/R (needs to be opened up)
Balthazar: 48R

I'm 5'7, 155 lbs.

Wish Saks carried the gun check with cream over check in a size 46, but I guess that's up to the buyer.

Some pretty fabrics this season. Love it.

The reality is that balthazar seems to fit most people really well.

 

[StockwellDay]

All jackets at bloomingdales (no matter what the photos look like online) are the Balthazar now. The balthazar is what we developed the Tipo off of - same exact fit just a cm shorter with slightly more narrow, bellied lapels and a two button closure.

I designed the cloth in my favorite fall quality from Lanificio di Pray - their mid-weight wool flannel. Really nice scale on the tooth.

We probably won't get into Atlanta any time soon as the only store I would consider being sold in is Sid Mashburn and he's not expanding tailoring at the moment.

What's the consumer sentiment in the market about tailoring? Carson Street has done away with tailoring (mostly), SM is not expanding and you mentioned a large focus for Eidos away from tailoring going forward. Has the "suit is back" moment passed the broader market and #menswear?

 

[jtorres94]



The reality is that balthazar seems to fit most people really well.

Very true, fits me even better than the nmwa fit even though I prefer the styling of the latter... Sad

 

[M Parenti]

What's the consumer sentiment in the market about tailoring? Carson Street has done away with tailoring (mostly), SM is not expanding and you mentioned a large focus for Eidos away from tailoring going forward. Has the "suit is back" moment passed the broader market and #menswear?

Well I think those can all be answered separately.

Carson street is moving away from tailoring because they're focusing more on high fashion/streetwear (or so it seems) - just look at their styling and product lineup now compared to what they opened with. Huge change.

Sid isn't expanding their tailoring because I'm pretty sure they have a strong private label tailoring division. Better margins would be a hell of a reason to not expand to 3rd party tailoring in the near term.

To answer the original question, though, I don't think the "suit is back" moment is necessarily going away, but maybe didn't come to fruition in the way some of us had hoped. I think a big move for Bloomies was moving to the Balthazar. It might not be as Eidos-y as we like, but they are selling in a much bigger way. Bloomingdales knows what they're doing.

I'll let AC answer that last bit about his focus on sportswear though.

 

[StockwellDay]

Well I think those can all be answered separately.

Carson street is moving away from tailoring because they're focusing more on high fashion/streetwear (or so it seems) - just look at their styling and product lineup now compared to what they opened with. Huge change.

Sid isn't expanding their tailoring because I'm pretty sure they have a strong private label tailoring division. Better margins would be a hell of a reason to not expand to 3rd party tailoring in the near term.

To answer the original question, though, I don't think the "suit is back" moment is necessarily going away, but maybe didn't come to fruition in the way some of us had hoped. I think a big move for Bloomies was moving to the Balthazar. It might not be as Eidos-y as we like, but they are selling in a much bigger way. Bloomingdales knows what they're doing.

I'll let AC answer that last bit about his focus on sportswear though.

Interesting thought on Sid and that makes sense.

With respect to Carson Street, that's not really an answer as opposed to an expanded description of my question. I'm surmising from the move in that direction that fashion/streetwear is selling to their customer base much better than tailored clothing. If SM and Eidos were also seeing that, well then that's an interesting shift compared to where we were 3-4 years ago.

 

[TtownMD]

I take it tipo, Tenero, Balthazar are cuts of suit & sport coat etc? And store like sak 5th ave & Bloomingdales dose not say any of this info on there detail page. Also are slim line very slim vs regular etc?

 

[NickPollica]



What's the consumer sentiment in the market about tailoring? Carson Street has done away with tailoring (mostly), SM is not expanding and you mentioned a large focus for Eidos away from tailoring going forward. Has the "suit is back" moment passed the broader market and #menswear? 

Regarding your overall question I would say that, simply put, tailoring as fashion is no longer trending. Carson Street's shift is more based in ideology than pure fiscal profitability (we had strong sell throughs there our last season and Eidos was the most frequestly searched word on their website). The Carson street guys have always been in the business of selling the "coolest" product. There was a solid 2-3 years where the people who set trends for the industry were wearing Italian suits and hardbottoms every day as a fashion statement. That time has passed. Carson Street wants to be in the driver's seat, to dictate trends. At this moment that means focusing on more conceptual, designer-based collections.

My approach to Eidos is that our collection should reflect and satisfy our customers' needs. To me this means broadening our scope to create what we feel is a complete comprehensive wardrobe. Tailored clothing is an important piece of that, but it's not the central focus.

 

[StockwellDay]

Regarding your overall question I would say that, simply put, tailoring as fashion is no longer trending. Carson Street's shift is more based in ideology than pure fiscal profitability (we had strong sell throughs there our last season and Eidos was the most frequestly searched word on their website). The Carson street guys have always been in the business of selling the "coolest" product. There was a solid 2-3 years where the people who set trends for the industry were wearing Italian suits and hardbottoms every day as a fashion statement. That time has passed. Carson Street wants to be in the driver's seat, to dictate trends. At this moment that means focusing on more conceptual, designer-based collections.

My approach to Eidos is that our collection should reflect and satisfy our customers' needs. To me this means broadening our scope to create what we feel is a complete comprehensive wardrobe. Tailored clothing is an important piece of that, but it's not the central focus.

Quite informative and interesting. Thanks for your response.

 

[charliechan]

What cut is this Eidos tux from Bloomingdales?
Looks like Lorenzo - wanted to know a bit more about it before I pull the trigger

http://www1.bloomingdales.com/shop/...egular-fit-bloomingdales-exclusive?ID=1203459