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Edward green dover

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by oscarthewild, Feb 21, 2005.

  1. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

    May 6, 2004
    I am considering ordering the dovers in shell cordovans (also thinking about getting two pairs, one with dainite, one w/ leather soles). Anyone seen or tried the dover in shell cordovan?

  2. MCA

    MCA Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2004

    I believe your only option is to order bespoke from Tony. He prefers calf and I don't know if the special stitching of the Dover could reach the same level of quality in cordovan. You may want to contact Tony.
  3. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Jun 15, 2004
    San Francisco
    Suggest you email the London store and ask. I've not heard of Green working with cordovan - it tend to be an American thing - but if they inventory it they should be happy to make shoes for you without the cost of bespoke. Let us know.

  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Apr 24, 2003
    I'd echo what the others have written. I've never heard of Edward Green using shell cordovan in their RTW shoes, but that doesn't mean that they don't and won't. I'm not sure how the EG-style skin-stitching present on the Dover would work out with shell cordovan, but someone at the Burlington Arcade ought to be able to answer your questions or get you the answers from the factory in Northampton.
  5. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

    Jan 6, 2004
    RVA - NYC
    Shell Cordovan is a tricky material to work with - if a factory (or shoemaker) does not work with it regularly, yet wet lasts (soaks the hides before lasting) as a rule, then it would not be a challenge to use shell cordovan. However, if they dry last (powder the lasts) as a rule, then it could be more difficult, as the material tears very easily during production. If I understand the Dover pattern properly, the vamp stitch would be no problem, but the butted seam would be difficult, if not impossible. I am working on a similiar problem, and the solution for us is splitting the toe puff and tying it back together with a larger stitch which will give the toe a similiar character after the upper is stretched back over the last.

    Shoefan, however, could explain this much better than I...
  6. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

    Oct 27, 2003
    NJ, USA
    The only shell cordovan model from Edward Green I've seen is on the Edward Jones site. It is a Southwold in Burgundy Crodovan [sic], though other than the noticeable lack of antiquing it's hard to tell that it's not boxcalf. I'd link directly to the image but it's being referenced by this Flash file. Look for shoe number 013 in the fourth menu option from the left. If I were to go with shell cordovan from EG, and they agree to do it, the Dover isn't a bad choice, though personally I would prefer the Halifax on the 505 last. Let us know what the folks at Edward Green say.
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior member

    Dec 30, 2003
    Ive asked them to make the Warwick boots in cordovan, and they told me they wouldnt do it for any price. I was told they do not like to work with the material.

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