Eat. Bespoke. Love (my Italian trip report)

[WeakMonday]

one must never be photographed outside of this pose

 

[Griffindork]



I have to admit. Sartodi does have a great point. The sleeves are obviously poorly fitted - no matter how you cut it. It is not about style but fit. Fit isn't a fad- it is timeless.

What's the flaw? What is poor about the sleeves? From what I see, this is sartoridinapoli's MO for every suit: find a picture where the wearer is in motion, which causes wrinkles. Rant and rave that the suit is garbage, and then post stick figure drawings as a counterpoint to make it seem like he has an actual critique. So what's your critique? What makes the sleeves poorly fitted?

 

[Griffindork]



one must never be photographed outside of this pose

Yup. Looks like an extremely well done suit and flatters you. Looks better than the single breasted that was offered as a counterpoint. Carpu65 - critique away.

 

[SartodiNapoli]



What's the flaw? What is poor about the sleeves? From what I see, this is sartoridinapoli's MO for every suit: find a picture where the wearer is in motion, which causes wrinkles. Rant and rave that the suit is garbage, and then post stick figure drawings as a counterpoint to make it seem like he has an actual critique. So what's your critique? What makes the sleeves poorly fitted?

Trouser is bad as I said.

Now they hide the sleeve and try to disguise and camuflate as bad tailors give ridiculous scuses when delivering bad garments.

Is a waste of time to spend the time with this two people and others who lack of knowledge and humildty. Do not fall into the shill trap. For me tailoring is an art, for others a shady business.

They believe that thing is good. Ok for them, wear it and enjoy it on the street,not necessary to spam this and other forums looking for clients-victims over and over trying to disguise a mediocre thing as a masterwork. One time is enough, no one bited the trap. Why? Obvious.

For me and sure the rest who got a bit of knowledge, good taste or had worked on the industry is not.

Last thing, to who are related this two guys who one even mentioned was "a cool guy"? The one I can't mention who is blacklisted by almost all the Italian industry. Why again? Why are coming to help him several members denying the Truth who are on my blocked member list since years ago by exactly the same?
Shady things. Always the same, Period. Another case closed.

 

[Griffindork]



Trouser is bad as I said.

Is a waste of time to spend the time with this two people. Do not fall into the shill trap.

No - that isn't what you said. You said it has "tons of defects and fit issues". You said it has "one of the worst sleeves I've ever seen." You said "poor sleeves" and "poor armholes" and a "dirty trick". And now it's clear that you were completely wrong. You are a troll and you can't read a suit, bespoke or otherwise. Sorry sartoridinapoli but outside of ranting and raving, which is ocassionally amusing, you don't have anything to add to this discourse. And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it. Like a child. And that's why the post above that you quote was directed at Carpu and not you: I can't learn anything from you. And careful when you use the word "shill". I'm not the one hawking ties and fabric in my signature line.

 

[David Reeves]



Hi Carpu,

Glad you follow my blog

Good DB.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]



No - you are totally missing the point of bespoke clothing. Stylistic choices (such as the amount of drape, the fullness of the suit, the shape of the shoulders) are different from tailoring issues. Whether or not a client looks ugly is a stylistic viewpoint. I can tell you that every neapolitan suit I've ever worn, to me,looks bad on me. That includes bespoke suits, as well as from brands like Kiton, which I think you find to be pretty excellent. Anderson Sheppard looks awful on me. That doesn't mean that they are badly tailored. It just means that I don't like the way they look on me. But all the decisions made in tailoring those suits were decisions that were made by an expert tailor with a viewpoint on how I should look in his suit. You can post all the pictures you want of things that you like and don't like. And you can try to explain your likes and dislikes in terms of good and bad tailoring. But it isn't that. If it accurately reflects the maker's intentions then it isn't a mistake. It is a choice.

I agree with you that Sarto is confusing fit matters with silhouette matters. But surely there's such a thing as a poor choice in silhouette? And I'm having trouble thinking of anybody on whom the Madrid medal-holder's balloon-like sleeves would look as good as the Duke of Windsor's tighter sleeves.

 

[carpu65]

Yup. Looks like an extremely well done suit and flatters you. Looks better than the single breasted that was offered as a counterpoint. Carpu65 - critique away.

I'm not critic of this double breasted.
Maybe a little more time to make the garnment and some other fit could be useful..i said this because usually the Pirozzi's double breasted have more open on shirt and tie,and this is a bit more shut.
But in my opinion is not bad suit.
For exemple i like the roll of the lapels.

 

[Griffindork]

^ poor choice in silhouette? If you mean that certain body types are better suited to certain types of physiques then I suppose that might be true. I certainly see people with suits that make them look pear-shaped and think that something else would look better. But that silhouette is a choice and subjective. And in any event weak Monday looks good to my eye. That's a solid Neapolitan double breasted suit. People can quibble with the trousers, but I bet if he changed his stance the "issues" that people wouldn't look as severe.

 

[Griffindork]



Trouser is bad as I said.

Now they hide the sleeve and try to disguise and camuflate as bad tailors give ridiculous scuses when delivering bad garments.

Is a waste of time to spend the time with this two people and others who lack of knowledge and humildty. Do not fall into the shill trap. For me tailoring is an art, for others a shady business.

They believe that thing is good. Ok for them, wear it and enjoy it on the street,not necessary to spam this and other forums looking for clients-victims over and over trying to disguise a mediocre thing as a masterwork. One time is enough, no one bited the trap. Why? Obvious.

For me and sure the rest who got a bit of knowledge, good taste or had worked on the industry is not.

Last thing, to who are related this two guys who one even mentioned was "a cool guy"? The one I can't mention who is blacklisted by almost all the Italian industry. Why again? Why are coming to help him several members denying the Truth who are on my blocked member list since years ago by exactly the same?
Shady things. Always the same, Period. Another case closed.

Since sar troll idinapoli has gone back and edited his post I feel the need to revisit it. But before i do that - sartoridinapoli - can I grab two of your ties and 3 meters of Carlo barbera fabric? Nah. Just kidding. I'd never do business with you. In any event, people should read sartrolli's post carefully. There is absolutely zero knowledge in it, zero critique, zero evidence of tailoring know-how or expertise whatsoever. Just a claim that the trousers are bad (no explanation of what is bad if course) and then a bunch of personal attacks. Everyone's bullshit detector should be going off.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

No - that isn't what you said. You said it has "tons of defects and fit issues". You said it has "one of the worst sleeves I've ever seen." You said "poor sleeves" and "poor armholes" and a "dirty trick". And now it's clear that you were completely wrong. You are a troll and you can't read a suit, bespoke or otherwise. Sorry sartoridinapoli but outside of ranting and raving, which is ocassionally amusing, you don't have anything to add to this discourse. And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it. Like a child. And that's why the post above that you quote was directed at Carpu and not you: I can't learn anything from you. And careful when you use the word "shill". I'm not the one hawking ties and fabric in my signature line.

I sell my own products made by myself and at a price no one can beat. Beat that. FAIL

I do not try to sell anyone else or got any shill or blogger who I give freebies/cash so he can spam all around because I got honour and dignity. Others are just the same who are spamming all the time but those are just a few over and over and all related to try to hook clients-victms to people that later give a % of the profit. Shady business.

I invitate all those to move Italy and start learning tailoring on a proper school to get a decent product and earn their money honestly.

If you say that sleeve is right and call for reinforces( the same group) or call me troll, you are completely free do believe on what you believe but do not try to pass what I have expressely teached as DEFECTS on my HIGH TAILORING SCHOOLS BY THE BEST OF THE WORLD MASTERS as “ good job”, as any doctor would call a shaman doctor. Maybe you can teach the best grandmasters of the world. Go Naples and open an Alta Sartoria School. FAIL 2

Here I repeat examples of a “good “ job. Congrats believing that is a good job, meanwhile I try to learn from the best who by any reason would let any of their pupils deliver those “good jobs” or passing any tailoring exam with such “good jobs", and sorry to say, those pupils have become since decades THE BEST OF NAPLES, SO OF THE WORLD. so give them lessons, to the owners, to the grandmasters, to the cutters, not to me who is just an student. They sure will apreciate how their business grow when starting to do “good jobs” as the exposed. Thank you.

You failed on the Kiton pic trap, and you acusse me of trolling And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it (quotting your own words;

A; You are a troll and you can't read a suit, (One who is learning from the considered best alive in Naples) , FAIL 4

B; And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it. ( That is called proyection on Psychology, is believing others are what the speaker is) FAIL 5

Now who is the troll or lacks of the skill to read a suit on your own words ? Fail 6

Leaving this thread, were plenty of ones who were on my block list by supporting one who became the biggest scam on decades. At that time those called me troll. Now everyone knows I was right and others DID NOT. FAIL 7

And finally, not sure who did a group buy of what looked a very good remake of classic Italian shears and tons of scammed clients got to find a lawyer because an allegued scammer run with tons of euros and any shear was delivered. Then this person is not the most indicate to accuse other of shill, troll etc. FAIL 7?

As I said, all the ones who are related on any kind of scam want to silent me, WHY? to continue their alleguedly shading business. Everybody knows already. Do not waste the time trying to shut up my humble person, a man who supports the best of the jobs and the honesty, dignity and honour.


bye bye. Let me ask you the last question, you´re blogger right? No need to answer, is already understood.


Sorry mods to write as much.





One of the worst sleeves I have ever seen, the client is you?

Corresponds to CQ image number 8


Poor sleeves, not only the diameter is maybe double than the ideal, maybe is ok for Silvester Stallone or a bodybuilder, sure not for the next, also corresponds to BAD FIT CQ IMAGE NUMBER 6

When a “tailor” does big armholes and big sleeveheads is because with that sleeve he can “ fit” maybe all his clients, as he lacks of the skill to draft and calculate a proper sleeve correctly done to the real measure of his client, instead of what it seems, to use the same hanged on the wall block pattern for everybody. This dirty trick is done daily by the Madrid untailors as well, whose cut style is pretty similar to this Pirozzi “master” tailor.


ABSOLUTELY POOR FITTED TROUSER, NOT ONLY DOES WRINKLES ON THE BOX, BETWEEN THE LEGS, BUT THE PROPORTIONS ON DIMINISHING THE LEGS ARE BAD.



SLEEVE ABERRATION, TOTAL ABERRATION, THIS CORRESPONDS TO IMAGES 2, 4, AND 8. ( ALMOST ALL THE ONES IN GREY)





This are “good jobs”, ok. Understood.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Since sar troll idinapoli has gone back and edited his post I feel the need to revisit it. But before i do that - sartoridinapoli - can I grab two of your ties and 3 meters of Carlo barbera fabric? Nah. Just kidding. I'd never do business with you. In any event, people should read sartrolli's post carefully. There is absolutely zero knowledge in it, zero critique, zero evidence of tailoring know-how or expertise whatsoever. Just a claim that the trousers are bad (no explanation of what is bad if course) and then a bunch of personal attacks. Everyone's bullshit detector should be going off.

Quotted to avoid prior editing.

I have not edited my post to change any ( as you did but I quotted you)

Explanation of why the trouser is bad is given by me days ago. Before insulting me, you should read. Fail.

My post is edited to add things not to delete insults to my person as you did, but already caught.

See are all ridiculous personal attempts to try to ridiculise me. All my haters are same.

Quotted for posterity.

 

[David Reeves]



Quotted to avoid prior editing.

I have not edited my post to change any ( as you did but I quotted you)

Explanation of why the trouser is bad is given by me days ago. Before insulting me, you should read. Fail.

My post is edited to add things not to delete insults to my person as you did, but already caught.

See are all ridiculous personal attempts to try to ridiculise me. All my haters are same.

Quotted for posterity.

So who are you supposed to be?

 

[David Reeves]



I sell my own products made by myself and at a price no one can beat. Beat that. FAIL I do not try to sell anyone else or got any shill or blogger who I give freebies/cash so he can spam all around because I got honour and dignity. Others are just the same who are spamming all the time but those are just a few over and over and all related to try to hook clients-victms to people that later give a % of the profit. Shady business. I invitate all those to move Italy and start learning tailoring on a proper school to get a decent product and earn their money honestly. If you say that sleeve is right and call for reinforces( the same group) or call me troll, you are completely free do believe on what you believe but do not try to pass what I have expressely teached as DEFECTS on my HIGH TAILORING SCHOOLS BY THE BEST OF THE WORLD MASTERS as “ good job”, as any doctor would call a shaman doctor. Maybe you can teach the best grandmasters of the world. Go Naples and open an Alta Sartoria School. FAIL 2 Here I repeat examples of a “good “ job. Congrats believing that is a good job, meanwhile I try to learn from the best who by any reason would let any of their pupils deliver those “good jobs” or passing any tailoring exam with such “good jobs", and sorry to say, those pupils have become since decades THE BEST OF NAPLES, SO OF THE WORLD. so give them lessons, to the owners, to the grandmasters, to the cutters, not to me who is just an student. They sure will apreciate how their business grow when starting to do “good jobs” as the exposed. Thank you. You failed on the Kiton pic trap, and you acusse me of trolling And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it (quotting your own words; A; You are a troll and you can't read a suit, (One who is learning from the considered best alive in Naples) , FAIL 4 B; And, what's worse is that you were completely wrong and you can't even admit it. ( That is called proyection on Psychology, is believing others are what the speaker is) FAIL 5 Now who is the troll or lacks of the skill to read a suit on your own words ? Fail 6 Leaving this thread, were plenty of ones who were on my block list by supporting one who became the biggest scam on decades. At that time those called me troll. Now everyone knows I was right and others DID NOT. FAIL 7 And finally, not sure who did a group buy of what looked a very good remake of classic Italian shears and tons of scammed clients got to find a lawyer because an allegued scammer run with tons of euros and any shear was delivered. Then this person is not the most indicate to accuse other of shill, troll etc. FAIL 7? As I said, all the ones who are related on any kind of scam want to silent me, WHY? to continue their alleguedly shading business. Everybody knows already. Do not waste the time trying to shut up my humble person, a man who supports the best of the jobs and the honesty, dignity and honour. bye bye. Let me ask you the last question, you´re blogger right? No need to answer, is already understood. Sorry mods to write as much.

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]
One of the worst sleeves I have ever seen, the client is you?

Corresponds to CQ image number 8
[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

Poor sleeves, not only the diameter is maybe double than the ideal, maybe is ok for Silvester Stallone or a bodybuilder, sure not for the next, also corresponds to BAD FIT CQ IMAGE NUMBER 6

When a “tailor” does big armholes and big sleeveheads is because with that sleeve he can “ fit” maybe all his clients, as he lacks of the skill to draft and calculate a proper sleeve correctly done to the real measure of his client, instead of what it seems, to use the same hanged on the wall block pattern for everybody. This dirty trick is done daily by the Madrid untailors as well, whose cut style is pretty similar to this Pirozzi “master” tailor.
[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

ABSOLUTELY POOR FITTED TROUSER, NOT ONLY DOES WRINKLES ON THE BOX, BETWEEN THE LEGS, BUT THE PROPORTIONS ON DIMINISHING THE LEGS ARE BAD.

[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]

SLEEVE ABERRATION, TOTAL ABERRATION, THIS CORRESPONDS TO IMAGES 2, 4, AND 8. ( ALMOST ALL THE ONES IN GREY)


[COLOR=417394] [/COLOR]


This are “good jobs”, ok. Understood.

That brown trouser, tricky combination with a very narrow leg, pleats and a high waisted trouser. Could do with a 17 or 18" bottom don't you think sarto? I generally like a knee with a 1.5" diameter wider than the bottom, the pleats are probably giving extra bag to these particular trousers which is a bit jarring with what? A 15" bottom diameter? I don't like wide sleeves.

 

[Griffindork]



I sell my own products made by myself and at a price no one can beat. Beat that. FAIL

You make Carlo Barbera fabric? Now I'm really impressed.