Difference between MTM and RTW?

[gumercindo]

If I get a suit/coat off the rack and then have a tailor "tailor" it to my specifications, isn't that MTM? If not, what's the difference b/w that scenario and true MTM suits?

 

[mishon]

MTM, as I understand it, is something that is made for you from scratch, accounting for your every whim and to your exact specifications. An off the rack suit is RTW since you are practically buying a finished product, with the exception of some alterations if needed.

 

[TheFoo]

In MTM, a garment's dimensions are modified at the pre-production level, whereas all modifications to a RTW garment must be post-production.

Consequently, certain changes can be made in MTM that are not possible or feasible in RTW. For example, in MTM, shoulder width and jacket length may be modified by a much wider margin. In RTW, you can't shorten a jacket by more than a half-inch without messing up its balance. In contrast, MTM allows modification of the necessary proportions to prevent this (pocket placement, lapel size, gorge height, button stance, etc.).

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by mishon

MTM, as I understand it, is something that is made for you from scratch, accounting for your every whim and to your exact specifications. An off the rack suit is RTW since you are practically buying a finished product, with the exception of some alterations if needed.

To be clear, MTM isn't really made 'from scratch': the pattern is merely modified from the default. In bespoke, a new pattern is made for you--'from scratch'.

 

[mishon]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

To be clear, MTM isn't really made 'from scratch': the pattern is merely modified from the default. In bespoke, a new pattern is made for you--'from scratch'.
Got it, thank you.

 

[c3cubed]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

In MTM, a garment's dimensions are modified at the pre-production level, whereas all modifications to a RTW garment must be post-production.

Consequently, certain changes can be made in MTM that are not possible or feasible in RTW. For example, in MTM, shoulder width and jacket length may be modified by a wide margin. For example, in RTW, you can't shorten a jacket by more than a half-inch without messing up its balance. In contrast, MTM allows modification of the necessary proportions to prevent this (pocket placement, lapel size, gorge height, button stance, etc.).

Quite right - and they are using a standard pattern/template block designed for that particular cut and model etc. Seam allowances are usually more generous pre-production to allow for the adjustments to suit the customer.

Bespoke: The tailor takes all of your measurements and first will draft a custom [master] "sloper" block entirely for the individual customer which can be used to develop any type of style to suit the preferences of that particular moment in time. Once a battery of fittings has concluded a perfect fit, the master tailor will have your personal block permanently on file. In some cases, they may even produce a muslin "toile" mockup for you, before cutting into an expensive fabric.

In theory - if one's weight and posture does not change dramatically over time, one can order a custom bespoke from anywhere around the world just by looking at a fabric sample and ordering a suit over the phone without no more than a final fitting.

In some of the Saville row shops - favoured regular customers that spend lavishly on a regular basis, may even have a custom mannequin made for them, which is like a padded replica of the customer's torso. This will assist the tailor in fit and finish [pressing] and steam moulding of the suit during the tailoring process.