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TH3515

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but I don't know of any other cognac or light brown-ish leathers
I had a look at Bakershoe's leather menu for custom White's Semi-Dress:
Horween British Tan (aka Classic Brown), Tan and Sienna Bullhide, Cognac/Light Brown and Sienna Water Buffalo, Buttercup Ostrich, Peanut Brittle Lizard, Harvest and Desert Sand Roughout would all fall into the light-brownish category.
 

Xerxes54

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New guy here. Although I love my IR's, Beckman, AE and Wolverine's, after reading 9k+ posts, I want to make the leap to White's. Anyway, I love the RW Beckman Cigar color and am wondering what the closest color match would be for White's - I'm thinking British Tan. Can anybody comment? Thanks, John
 

linafelt

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New guy here. Although I love my IR's, Beckman, AE and Wolverine's, after reading 9k+ posts, I want to make the leap to White's. Anyway, I love the RW Beckman Cigar color and am wondering what the closest color match would be for White's - I'm thinking British Tan. Can anybody comment? Thanks, John
If you ask White's will send you samples of whatever colors you want.
 

Xerxes54

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I think British Tan would be close... I have always found it more brown than tan... and it will darken with age...

The swatches here may be of assistance...
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/earthmarket/item/whites-smoke-jumper/

http://www.eastwestapparel.co.uk/leather-samples
Thanks so much for your response - very helpful and you're right the darkening has to be factored in. But if I do get them I'll just use Bick 4 which in my experience doesn't darken (much).
 

Xerxes54

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Can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 boots? Mainly, why is the boot on the bottom so much sleeker looking than the top one? I'm thinking maybe swing last vs SD last? Blocked vs Cuban heel? But still it's a huge difference in the pics.
Whites 1.png

White's 2.png
 

linafelt

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Can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 boots? Mainly, why is the boot on the bottom so much sleeker looking than the top one? I'm thinking maybe swing last vs SD last? Blocked vs Cuban heel? But still it's a huge difference in the pics.
View attachment 802668
View attachment 802667

May well be the same last. I think the difference is the heel and sole.
 

TH3515

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^I agree. Vibram 100 in the first pic is the thickest sole available on White's, and the boot has a full height block heel, which also shows a pretty pronounced "shelf" at the back. Whereas the second pic shows a curved heel (and I think even a lowered one) with a commando half sole. Maybe the person who ordered that boot and originally posted the pics (I think I saw them on here a few months ago) can chime in with more details.
 

chicken1616

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In addition, the top boot also has some type of supported toe(steel, composite, or celastic) and regular trim, as the bottom has close trim. I believe the top boot heel may be raised.
Everyone to thier own, but that top boot has a lot of weight swinging off the bottom end, and not a lot of support up top( 6" height). If you did a lot of walking, you would notice that. That block heel, with that sole, and if it raised, is going to throw your stride off. There is a reason for that curved heel, and it has nothing to do with aesthetics.
Just like ordering a boot with a midsole slip or triple sole. The reason that exists is basically for lineman boots, and similiar, that need a lot of support in that area for climbing. They are not meant to be walked in a lot. It is a pretty good bet, if you order boots that way for "looks", there will not be a lot of walking done in them, by default.
I wore heavy boots at the railroad(steel toe SJ's with metatarsal), but it was for protection. I absolutely would not wear them for anything else. Too much of a hassle.
The stock boots are made the way they are for function. If you start deviating from that, not only will you probably lose the benefits, but possibly gain some drawbacks. Again, each to thier own, but orderer beware.;)
If you have a nice pair of 690 Packers, or SJ's, with a 430 or 269 sole, straight stock with an 8" height, nicely broken in, not a lot beats that for function. If you are new to high arch boots, do yourself a favor and get a pair of stock boots, wear them a lot for a year, and then figure out what you want.
 
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RockyMountain22

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If you have a nice pair of 690 Packers, or SJ's, with a 430 or 269 sole, straight stock with an 8" height, nicely broken in, not a lot beats that for function. If you are new to high arch boots, do yourself a favor and get a pair of stock boots, wear them a lot for a year, and then figure out what you want.

I completely agree with chicken on this point -- suum cuique -- trust in White's 150+ history, and you will not go wrong. Then, after your first pair is worn in, go off the reservation and well ... to each his own. I have experienced ZERO issues with ordering "unmodified" configurations.

Cheers!
 

Iotapa

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Of all the light browns they have, British tan seems the best because it's hardy and smooth. My only issue is it seems to darken considerably over time. Nicks seems to have more light brown leathers so I might go for them for the packers.

So one thing I dislike about my red wings is how hard the heel counter is as it rubs against the back of my ankle. I have to wear thick socks otherwise I get blisters. Do whites have the same issue? Would some lining mitigate it somewhat? I really like horsehide leather, but whites only offers it on their semi dress (not even BH). So is the semi dress last the one with the lowest toe profile? Might opt for those without a celastic toe and a cap as my first whites boot as the engineer or packer might be a bit much to start off with.
 

mlwdp

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In addition, the top boot also has some type of supported toe(steel, composite, or celastic) and regular trim, as the bottom has close trim. I believe the top boot heel may be raised.
Everyone to thier own, but that top boot has a lot of weight swinging off the bottom end, and not a lot of support up top( 6" height). If you did a lot of walking, you would notice that. That block heel, with that sole, and if it raised, is going to throw your stride off. There is a reason for that curved heel, and it has nothing to do with aesthetics.
Just like ordering a boot with a midsole slip or triple sole. The reason that exists is basically for lineman boots, and similiar, that need a lot of support in that area for climbing. They are not meant to be walked in a lot. It is a pretty good bet, if you order boots that way for "looks", there will not be a lot of walking done in them, by default.
I wore heavy boots at the railroad(steel toe SJ's with metatarsal), but it was for protection. I absolutely would not wear them for anything else. Too much of a hassle.
The stock boots are made the way they are for function. If you start deviating from that, not only will you probably lose the benefits, but possibly gain some drawbacks. Again, each to thier own, but orderer beware.;)
If you have a nice pair of 690 Packers, or SJ's, with a 430 or 269 sole, straight stock with an 8" height, nicely broken in, not a lot beats that for function. If you are new to high arch boots, do yourself a favor and get a pair of stock boots, wear them a lot for a year, and then figure out what you want.

I was veryyyyy close to getting my SJ in Vibram 100 but it was for the look not necessity. Even though I did the double midsole in Vibram half sole, I'm glad I didn't do the 100. BTW, the double midsole is wearing in nicely at almost 30 days of wear invade anyone here is interested in the style I got. Glad I did Bullhide because the leather wears in quickly!
 

Xerxes54

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In addition, the top boot also has some type of supported toe(steel, composite, or celastic) and regular trim, as the bottom has close trim. I believe the top boot heel may be raised.
Everyone to thier own, but that top boot has a lot of weight swinging off the bottom end, and not a lot of support up top( 6" height). If you did a lot of walking, you would notice that. That block heel, with that sole, and if it raised, is going to throw your stride off. There is a reason for that curved heel, and it has nothing to do with aesthetics.
Just like ordering a boot with a midsole slip or triple sole. The reason that exists is basically for lineman boots, and similiar, that need a lot of support in that area for climbing. They are not meant to be walked in a lot. It is a pretty good bet, if you order boots that way for "looks", there will not be a lot of walking done in them, by default.
I wore heavy boots at the railroad(steel toe SJ's with metatarsal), but it was for protection. I absolutely would not wear them for anything else. Too much of a hassle.
The stock boots are made the way they are for function. If you start deviating from that, not only will you probably lose the benefits, but possibly gain some drawbacks. Again, each to thier own, but orderer beware.;)
If you have a nice pair of 690 Packers, or SJ's, with a 430 or 269 sole, straight stock with an 8" height, nicely broken in, not a lot beats that for function. If you are new to high arch boots, do yourself a favor and get a pair of stock boots, wear them a lot for a year, and then figure out what you want.

Thanks for the responses. My situation is I live in Manhattan. I do a hell of a lot of walking, (stepping off curbs and I have a heavy heel strike ) and that's really all the boots will be used for. (Not that I don't think White's are gorgeous, some of these leathers and builds I've seen on this thread are stunning!). I will wear them in the office so if I can make them a little dressy with a narrow-ish profile, that's a good thing. Question: if I do something like a SD, brown dress or water buffalo leather, single leather mid sole (although I'd love to do a double mid sole for iron clad support), close trim, standard/Cuban heel base, single celastic toe, 700 Vibram sole (or 430) would that be considered a good place to start for first pair of White's boots? Is that close enough to what you refer to as 'stock boots' or am I deviating? Sorry if lame question - you'd think after reading this entire thread I'd know the answer myself.
 

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