Creating Distinction with Traditional Garments

[Billbeme]

Hello SF! I have just recently taken an interest in the clothes I wear and (as warned) it has completely consumed me. I have one main question I was hoping to break down: After extensive reading on SF and S.Shuman's The Sartorialist I have the specific garments I would like to use to build my wardrobe. I am 22 and in college so I don't need to be wearing bespoke suits to demonstrate my concern for my appearance. I love, from an architectural standpoint, long-sleeved, collared shirts. I think there is a reason they have stood the test of time in men's style. That being said, wearing a collared shirt and pair of non-denim pants doesn't make you any different than the frat boy to my right or the flannel toting hiker to my left. My question: "How do you take the same type of garment and make yourself clearly well dressed?" Example: #1: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_qjpwnPW4c1...s1600-h/GC.jpg #2: Man in the middle: http://two-and-a-half-men.otavo.tv/w...half_men_1.jpg In both of these images both men are wearing the same garments: Long-Sleeve Collared Shirt, Khaki Pants, etc. but clearly #1 looks much better than #2. I realize that the examples I have given are a little biased towards my demonstrating a point, but I just want to avoid looking like every Math teacher I have ever had (sorry Math teachers reading) w/o wearing the suits you see in the "What Are You Wearing" thread. No clients to deal with just yet. I have chosen to develop a style and while it isn't this ( http://redkid.net/generator/punk/yoursign.jpg ) I still would like to set myself apart from everyone else. I don't want to use a gimmick piece of some sort like suspenders (braces if you prefer) or a bowtie to make my attempts distinct. I think the fact that I am a 22-year old college student not wearing sweat pants is a start, but how do I make myself distinct. Thanks in advanced to everyone for the help. I realize Flusser is a great place to start but I don't have the fund$ to order them just yet. Being stylish without money is another thread entirely. -Bill P.S. If appropriate for this thread (by contrast to beginning another new one) I would like to discuss the notion of a style "uniform." In that I mean having, oh say, 10 shirts and 5 pants and knowing that I can toss anything on without thinking and still be well dressed with style. I would like to get to the point where I don't have to change three times before feeling confident and I think the "uniform" approach would be the way to go. Thanks again.

 

[ysc]

Well No. 1 looks like a bit of a douche, but I see what you are saying.
The first step would be to have trousers and a shirt that fit well in colours that go well together. The difference between a stylish trousers and shirt, and a bad one is all in the fit and the fabric.
Guy number one also has some more interesting shoes (double strapped monks I believe they would be called.) so a decent leather pair of shoes would be good - a more casual pair of brogues or Chelsea boots for example.

I am a 23 year old student by the way, I don't dress terribly excitingly - I wear a pair of loafers/brogues/Chelsea boots plus jeans or similar casual trousers, a shirt and (as its cold where I am) a jacket every day, so I know where you are coming from.

To get some ideas you might want to browse the WAYWN thread at the top of the forum, most of the pictures are people in suits/jacket and tie, but there are some more casual ones too and some of the people that post there consistently look terrific.

 

[mmhollis]

Fit is everything.

 

[Nexus6]

Have you entertained the world of ties?
They need not be serious ties.
Knits, plaids, cottons, etc can add fun to the effect of your outfit.

1 shirt + 5 ties = 5 combos.

And if you are on an extremely tight budget,
thrift stores have mountains of ties for like $3 each or so.

It's just a thought.


P.S.
The man in picture 1
I like those double monk straps...Blue?
but the no socks thing is so gross for my own taste.
It's just not hygenic.

 

[MrG]

Originally Posted by mmhollis

Fit is everything.

+1 Two people could be wearing exactly the same clothing, but the guy who takes the time to make certain he has chosen the proper fit will always look better. If you make sure your clothes fit well you will likely achieve the distinction you seek, mostly because doing so is so uncommon these days.

 

[lee_44106]

I also agree that what sets you apart from Joe Average will be fit.

Just remember that well-fitted means nicely adapted to your body shape, not skinny super tight. This concept is often forgotten or ignored in the pursuit of "fitted" to some quite tragic results, and will make people question your sexual orientation also.


And if you happen to have a not-so-ideal body shape, i.e. short and fat/stout, then just accept it.

 

[Billbeme]

Well No. 1 looks like a bit of a douche, but I see what you are saying.

haha. Agreed. Admittedly, I was just using him to prove a point.

The first step would be to have trousers and a shirt that fit well in colours that go well together. The difference between a stylish trousers and shirt, and a bad one is all in the fit and the fabric.

Fit is everything.

Two people could be wearing exactly the same clothing, but the guy who takes the time to make certain he has chosen the proper fit will always look better

I also agree that what sets you apart from Joe Average will be fit.

I am acknowledging a theme and I think you are all spot on. If fit is first and foremost (ah, alliteration) I find that good news and bad news. Good because the solution is clear. Bad because tailors are expensive, my dry-cleaner alterationist put darts in my striped shirt

, and I have only made it so far on my quest to learn to alter clothes myself (though my hems won first prize in the state fair). All that aside, I have found step #1 to looking better. Fit!

Have you entertained the world of ties?

This is an interesting suggestion that I have never entertained because I was told that if you have a tie you must wear a jacket and then suddenly I look much more dressed than I planned and loose that ability to throw a frisbee on the quad if you follow my drift. Can this rule be broken?

To get some ideas you might want to browse the WAYWN thread at the top of the forum, most of the pictures are people in suits/jacket and tie, but there are some more casual ones too and some of the people that post there consistently look terrific.

This is a good suggestion. 2,500+ pages! WHOA! I took a look (at 1/900th of the pages) and as you warned there were a lot of suits but there are also some more casual individuals. Thanks!

Just remember that well-fitted means nicely adapted to your body shape, not skinny super tight. This concept is often forgotten or ignored in the pursuit of "fitted" to some quite tragic results, and will make people question your sexual orientation also.

Point well made. I went through the EMO phase years ago. Not again.

If you make sure your clothes fit well you will likely achieve the distinction you seek, mostly because doing so is so uncommon these days.

Excellent, excellent point. Funny how doing something that was once very common place can now be one's distinguishing feature. But right you are, all my clothes (I currently own) are very nice but all sizes too big. I guess it is just how my generation thought it was supposed to buy clothes. On the bright side I don't need to go shopping, only to a tailor.

Please keep the great insight coming!
-Bill

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

I also agree that what sets you apart from Joe Average will be fit.

Just remember that well-fitted means nicely adapted to your body shape, not skinny super tight. This concept is often forgotten or ignored in the pursuit of "fitted" to some quite tragic results, and will make people question your sexual orientation also.


And if you happen to have a not-so-ideal body shape, i.e. short and fat/stout, then just accept it.
I agree. To me, fit is the distinguishing characteristic that makes traditional garments look outstanding.

 

[registrar1900]

+1 fit.
+1 colour choice.

Fit is an oft repeat mantra and I fuly subscribe to it. Just took me 30 years before I got my first MTM shirt and realized that comfort does not mean loose.

Don't forget about colour as a useful tool to declare your sense of style. I think in pic 2 the green shirt doesn't really pop (aside from being fairly blousy, esp when compared to pic 1).

Details...in pic 1 aside from the double strap monks you have a shirt that looks like it is a camp/paddle shirt. Not sure of the name but it looks like it has a button/flap to secure the rolled sleeve. The other items is a belt that is not just black leather.

Pic 2 looks great but I am not sure if it would rate as business casual.

Good luck.

 

[emmanuel]

Fit is the biggest thing to concern yourself with. Color schemes are important as well. Of course all of this means nothing if you dont have the swagger to pull it all off. Your clothes should reflect your personality! Never try to be something your not with your clothes!

 

[barims]

The advice here is pretty spot-on. When I found myself facing the same decision, here's what I basically came up with (and I'll be speaking in UK generalities because that's where I'm at): - Fit (surprisingly) - Colour. Know what you can and can't get away with - Patterns. I wear a lot of formal shirts casually because the Jermyn Street style is very bold - all checks and stripes in lots of variations. Striped and checked odd trousers are most successful when they're subtle and harmonised with a plain shirt. Keep it tasteful and you can't go wrong - Design. French cuffs and collars are great fun, and buttoned breast pockets on a shirt make them a whole lot less formal. On trousers, I generally went for a loose fit as I was a hip hop kid way back when. I also really like cuffs, particularly because they're less common - Shoes. For casual fits, you can use a designer like Paul Smith who has idiosyncratic shoe and trainer designs. The Paul Smith shoe thread on the Streetwear board here will provide some great examples - Accessories. Understated, classic belts are very useful. Scarves almost always add some flair And to echo Emmanuel, be yourself!

 

[mr.loverman]

-use good posture(head up shoulders back) but stay loose and relaxed.

-get in shape(build your physique enough so people can tell your fit, don't try to get huge). you want your shoulders to be wider than your hips and your chest broader than your waist.

-find what colors work for you(ask salepeople at high end stores or well dressed women/men at high end stores. ask a bunch of them. try on a bunch of stuff) combos are also important.

-WEAR CLOTHES THAT FIT! (i'd recommend spending at least a few hours in a department store/mall trying on a bunch of different brands/designers for basic items like denim, khaki pants, t-shirts and dress shirts. its hard to know what really looks good on you until you try it. )


wear nice shoes and belts.

 

[Billbeme]

Fit is an oft repeat mantra and I fuly subscribe to it. Just took me 30 years before I got my first MTM shirt and realized that comfort does not mean loose.

Would you be willing to expand on this thought?

There seems to be an order to things here:

1. Fit
   
2. Color
   
3. Pattern

If you have fit you are in good shape. Follow it up with colors that play well off each other between garments. Lastly, use patterns to express oneself. Is this about right? I understand the notion behind having things fit correctly. However, where can I learn about color and pattern? Again, I plan to order Alan Flusser: "Clothes and the Man" (yes, opposed to Dressing the Man) after I am done with finals. If I order before, I will most likely fail. A hard truth.

Of course all of this means nothing if you dont have the swagger to pull it all off. Your clothes should reflect your personality! Never try to be something your not with your clothes!

This is a great point! I often lack confidence in presenting myself. I am not sure this is something you can advise me in, though I feel better about myself when I am wearing something I deem worthy. I think this is the reason clothes/style has sucked me in. It is empowering me and enabling me to control how I feel about my self worth. Anyone else?

t in shape(build your physique enough so people can tell your fit, don't try to get huge). you want your shoulders to be wider than your hips and your chest broader than your waist.

Focus equally on the clothes as the body that wears them! Got it! I have a 36" chest and a 32" waist. I am 5'10" and 143lbs. I think I am doing well but will be sure to not become lazy.

wear nice shoes and belts.

Next on the list after shirts and pants.

Thanks again for the help everyone! I look forward to the replies. I am sorry for my lengthy replies. I am trying to reflect on everyone's advice to get the most out of this thread.

Bill

 

[Billbeme]

P.S. Since beginning this thread I have been taking notice of who on my campus is wearing the items discussed in this thread: long-sleeved collared shirt, non-denim slacks, leather shoes, etc. As you all mentioned the clothes alone do nothing. But what's more is that the clothes + excellent fit still don't pull the weight.

I feel compelled to fall back on a gimmick piece/garment of some sort to demonstrate my outspoken personality:

• Suspenders/Braces
  
• Bowtie
  
• Waistcoat

But this could really backfire!

I like the (long) tie idea but think they look weird without a coat/sport coat/blazer to match and now we have lost the casual nature of well-dressed college life.

Thoughts/Help?
Bill

 

[emmanuel]

Well what do you like? What are you comfortable with? Describing an article of clothing that you want to wear as a gimmick is awfully dangerous. Buy pieces because they suit you and you like them and not for any other reason.