Cordovan Care

[maquisard]

Originally Posted by sf_esq

Is the consensus opinion not to do anything before first wear? I'm itching to bust out my Darltons, but polish all my leather shoes before wearing. I'm new to cordovan and recognize that a little wax polish goes a long way, but is it necessary to use any prior to wearing the first time? Thanks in advance, fellas.

The consensus here is clearly not to polish them at first. If you read the instructions at alden-of-carmel that Mr. Horween linked to, however, there is a section that I think can certainly be construed as a recommendation to polish them brand new.

I do not have extensive experience with shell cordovan, but I have had a pair of RL Darlton plain-toe bluchers for years and just received a new second pair. I have a pair of Aldens that are a month or so old which have never been polished and are doing fine. But the Darltons have a much more fragile surface and are much more prone to scuffs than the Aldens. Since using the polishing method outlined by the "good customer" in the link (twice in four months), my old Darltons have looked much better. So I am leaning towards polishing the new Darltons (I guess they are Marlows now) before wearing them.

 

[ChiliPalmer]

Originally Posted by maquisard

The consensus here is clearly not to polish them at first. If you read the instructions at alden-of-carmel that Mr. Horween linked to, however, there is a section that I think can certainly be construed as a recommendation to polish them brand new.

I do not have extensive experience with shell cordovan, but I have had a pair of RL Darlton plain-toe bluchers for years and just received a new second pair. I have a pair of Aldens that are a month or so old which have never been polished and are doing fine. But the Darltons have a much more fragile surface and are much more prone to scuffs than the Aldens. Since using the polishing method outlined by the "good customer" in the link (twice in four months), my old Darltons have looked much better. So I am leaning towards polishing the new Darltons (I guess they are Marlows now) before wearing them.

With what do you polish the Darltons?

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by ChiliPalmer

With what do you polish the Darltons?
I use brown wax very sparingly.

 

[maquisard]

Originally Posted by ChiliPalmer

With what do you polish the Darltons?

Alden brown paste wax works great. Saphir Medaille d'Or dark brown paste wax also seems promising, but I haven't tried it using the elaborate 2-hour method yet.

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by maquisard

... I haven't tried it using the elaborate 2-hour method yet.

It takes me no more than 5 minutes.

 

[sf_esq]

Originally Posted by maquisard

The consensus here is clearly not to polish them at first. If you read the instructions at alden-of-carmel that Mr. Horween linked to, however, there is a section that I think can certainly be construed as a recommendation to polish them brand new.

I do not have extensive experience with shell cordovan, but I have had a pair of RL Darlton plain-toe bluchers for years and just received a new second pair. I have a pair of Aldens that are a month or so old which have never been polished and are doing fine. But the Darltons have a much more fragile surface and are much more prone to scuffs than the Aldens. Since using the polishing method outlined by the "good customer" in the link (twice in four months), my old Darltons have looked much better. So I am leaning towards polishing the new Darltons (I guess they are Marlows now) before wearing them.

This is helpful. Will also be picking up some Alden brown paste. Thanks, fellas.

 

[inkwretch]

I bought some Bradleys that were seconds and a little beat up. One of the shoes was much lighter than the other shoe. I used the AE cordovan cream on both shoes and it worked well and really evened out the color and made the two shoes look much more consistent.

 

[txeconomist]

so can I use this stuff on my cordovans?

 

[videocrew]

Originally Posted by txeconomist

so can I use this stuff on my cordovans?

I've read a number of people that say that Alden uses that very same substance before the shoes leave the factory. The #8 polish == Kiwi Dark Tan. Of course, this is unavailable in the states, so you have to pay the premium for Alden.

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by txeconomist

so can I use this stuff on my cordovans?

I do, and have done so for years.

 

[REguy]

I broke out a new pair of Darltons and got caught in a light drizzle. The rain left water spots on the leather that don't want to buff out. Would anyone recommend polishing them after only a few wearings?

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by REguy

I broke out a new pair of Darltons and got caught in a light drizzle. The rain left water spots on the leather that don't want to buff out. Would anyone recommend polishing them after only a few wearings?
Yes, I've polished them after a few wears for very similar reasons. No harm was done to the shoes. I'm wearing cigar longwings today that got drenched about an hour ago and now have a few water marks. I'll buff them out, but if that doesn't work, then I'm likely to apply polish when I return home in a few days, even though I polished them before my trip began.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Originally Posted by REguy

I broke out a new pair of Darltons and got caught in a light drizzle. The rain left water spots on the leather that don't want to buff out. Would anyone recommend polishing them after only a few wearings?

I did the same thing, and used shoe cream in dark brown, and they polished out nicely. Yes, on Cordovan shoes.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by REguy

I broke out a new pair of Darltons and got caught in a light drizzle. The rain left water spots on the leather that don't want to buff out. Would anyone recommend polishing them after only a few wearings?

Some people polish before they wear them for the first time because they think shoes can dry out after sitting in the box in inventory. I think this is unnecessary and overkill, unless the shoes look bad. But then again, why would you buy them in the first place if they looked bad. But I guess, if shoes look like they need to be hyrdrated or nourished, then it is way passed due.

 

[Montauk]

I've always taken the "less is more" approach to shell cordovan care advised by many here, and was initially very impressed with the leather's resilience and shine without the pampering my calf shoes generally receive, but I've recently noticed hairline cracking on both sides of the toe crease along the sole. I guess I took my shells for granted, even reserving them for rain duty.

What would folks recommend for moisturizing/conditioning dry shell cordovan back to lustrous health? I generally like to give my shoes a nice drink of Lexall before hitting them with either polish or cream, but is there something else (e.g. mink oil) I should be using instead?

I've always been surprised at how little attention gets paid to leather conditioning in discussions of shoe care--seems like it'd be at least as important as polishing? Allen Edmonds doesn't even list it as a step in proper shoe care...