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Chest being let out?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Toronto34, Jun 11, 2010.

  1. Toronto34

    Toronto34 Senior member

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    Hi all,


    Searched through the similar threads and seemed most of them were focused on taking in the chest and waist.

    However just a quick question, about to purchase an isaia and an oxxford, but the chest is about an inch too small.

    Can the chest be let out to make it a little more roomy providing all other measurements work?

    ie. 22 chest when I need a 22.5?

    Is that possible, and does it make sense?

    Dont wanna ruin the blazers
     


  2. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Assuming there's enough material, then yes it can be done.
     


  3. Toronto34

    Toronto34 Senior member

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    Is it an extremely difficult alteration?
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  5. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    It is completely, utterly, totally, and fully, impossible. Even if there would be cloth to let out in the underarm seam (and if you can show me a coat that does, I'll happily eat a needle) it can't be used since it would cause the armhole to be moved away from the arm. It would effectively ruin the sleeve.
     


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not true, you can open up the sleeve at the armhole seam. We are talking about .25" on both sides here. I've had it done. Eat a needle.
     


  7. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    A quarter inch on each side. Yes, can be done. Thought OP was talking about more to let out. What you mean, comes down to reducing the seam from 1 cm to .5 cm inlay. Which is possible, sure. And pretty useless too.
     


  8. Toronto34

    Toronto34 Senior member

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    Why is it useless to let out 0.5 inch on both sides for a better fit?
     


  9. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    In that area, the difference will be less easy to notice than for instance hip or waist. When extra chest width is needed, it's usually behind the arm where it matters most. You're basically just moving the front vertical line of the sleevehead away from center a little. To really add to the chest, the neckpoint should ideally also be changed. It's simply rather big operation for the result it gives once a coat is fully finished.
     


  10. dmac

    dmac Senior member

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    I have had it done on several jackets by my alterations tailor and have been pleased with the results. It was a least .5 inches on each side any may have been closer to 1 inch.
     


  11. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    Ok. For fear of unleashing the wrath of the internet god, I'll just shut up now, and go back to cutting a coat. Without inlay for letting the chest out. Cuz that is just impossible. But of course I'm a tailor, so what do I know. The internet is almighty, Martin, ain'tcha learnt nuttin?
     


  12. dmac

    dmac Senior member

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    Marty

    It may not be advisable to let out the chest, but it is clearly it is possible to do so. I am happy with the results, but a tailor may view differently.
     


  13. ls1dreams

    ls1dreams Well-Known Member

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    What about the waist?

    I'm in a situation where 38R's fit nicely in the waist, but the shoulders are too big.

    36R's fit perfectly for shoulders, the chest is OK, but the waists are always too snug (I've tried like 7-8 brands now).

    Am I better off going with a 38R and just dealing with slightly large shoulders or can I have a tailor let out the waist/chest on a 36R?

    Ughhh
     


  14. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    I think the confusion is in terminology. You can not let out the chest because there is no cloth at the armhole to do so. You can add girth over the chest at the underarm seam, IF there is enough cloth which usually there isn't. But that is not the same as letting out the chest. That will only widen the armscye. I'll post a diagram later on today.

    And the name's Martin [​IMG]

    Letting out the waist is easy, if there is cloth etc. Depends on the maker. Might as well get the shoulders altered, if you have a good tailor in your area.
     


  15. George

    George Senior member

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    Ok. For fear of unleashing the wrath of the internet god, I'll just shut up now, and go back to cutting a coat. Without inlay for letting the chest out. Cuz that is just impossible. But of course I'm a tailor, so what do I know. The internet is almighty, Martin, ain'tcha learnt nuttin?
    You're learning.
     


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