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Cheaney

Northants bloke

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... Apparently Cheaney's 6184 last, developed in 1974, was specifically conceived for the U.S. market (on a similar note, Cheaney's more recent 125 last was originally developed for the Japanese market, but also has found popularity in the general world market)....
Impressive knowledge ob. Please tell us more!

I live in the Northamptonshire area but I've never been in the industry myself and none of my family ever worked for Church/Cheaney to my knowledge. I've only developed an interest in Cheaney much later - several years after Dr Martens closed local factories and I had thought Northampton no longer made shoes.

I happen to have a pair of 6184's that I picked at the factory shop once. Not as eye catching as the 205, 225, 125 and 130 but a very nice fitting discreet last.
 

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Meyboom

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Impressive knowledge ob. Please tell us more!

I live in the Northamptonshire area but I've never been in the industry myself and none of my family ever worked for Church/Cheaney to my knowledge. I've only developed an interest in Cheaney much later - several years after Dr Martens closed local factories and I had thought Northampton no longer made shoes.

I happen to have a pair of 6184's that I picked at the factory shop once. Not as eye catching as the 205, 225, 125 and 130 but a very nice fitting discreet last.
It is quite common for shoemakers to design lasts for specific markets. The famous Vass F and U last were originally designed for the Japanese market. Same goes for some Enzo Bonafe lasts. Funny thing is that nowadays some Japanese makers have developped specific lasts for our market, often going by original names like 'International last' :)
 

JUAN MANUEL

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A nice boot but it seams discontinued

Brand: Cheaney
Model: Hampton
Supplier: Herrings
Last: 1978
Sole: Golf rubber / 360 welt /

Note: A nice "dealer boot" (I believe that is named that way due to the taller shaft), was a tad hard to break it down, it has a "Veldtschoen" construction. Has an interesting square toe shape. This boots look great after a day in the country (mud and dust give character to them).

IMG_1330.JPG
IMG_1331.JPG
IMG_1335.JPG
 

Blake Stitched Blues

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hows cheaney sizing? I wear 10,5uk for AS and CJ, what size should i get for cheaney125 last?
I'm the same size as you. I've tried Cheaney's 125 and 130 lasts and found both to run slightly narrow and low on the instep. Returning the Jackie chukkas and King II derby boots was a heartbreaker but I just couldn't get a great fit in either last. They make really attractive shoes in my opinion - surprisingly light and a little old-fashioned in the best possible way.

 

Meyboom

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This again shows that all feet are different and fit is a highly personal matter. I agree that 125 is on the narrow side and would recommend people with wider feet to take the G width. But I have a high instep and have never had issues in that area with the 125 (contrary to other English brands like CJ, EG and FS).
 

rakuskus

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I'm the same size as you. I've tried Cheaney's 125 and 130 lasts and found both to run slightly narrow and low on the instep. Returning the Jackie chukkas and King II derby boots was a heartbreaker but I just couldn't get a great fit in either last. They make really attractive shoes in my opinion - surprisingly light and a little old-fashioned in the best possible way.

Thanks, but i just bought cheaney in 125 last a half size down because i have the 12508 and a half size down fit me the best. Did i just make a mistake? The shoes hasnt arrive yet. I cant try instore because of the pandemic, im crossing my finger here. Me feet are flat with low instep medium width.
 

leparrain7

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Thanks, but i just bought cheaney in 125 last a half size down because i have the 12508 and a half size down fit me the best. Did i just make a mistake? The shoes hasnt arrive yet. I cant try instore because of the pandemic, im crossing my finger here. Me feet are flat with low instep medium width.
I have since February Garforth chukka on the last 12508 in 8.5 uk, in length I have room almost 2 cm apart with the hard end, in width I am good, but in height I am tight especially on my strongest foot, according to research the last Cheaney generally lack space at the level of the height.
so if you have a flat foot, maybe it will work for you because the two lasts are equivalent.
besides I put skates on my chukka, I am about ten wearing and it is always a little tight at the top.
D0922CFF-C725-498E-9104-60AD9429D68D.jpeg
FDA64749-86BF-4A83-A098-EC315EDC1FC7.jpeg
 

obc28.5

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Impressive knowledge ob. Please tell us more!
Japan is Cheaney's largest foreign market, and aggressively markets here. Special edition and anniversary models are popular (this is not just with imported goods but also domestic products), and the use of numbers 125 and 130 (signifying the company anniversary) for the lasts also ties into the English heritage of the product- reminding the prospective customer that the firm is old (and thus having a respectable air). Remember, Japan is a country unique in Asia where extant firms/businesses that have histories that stretch back centuries is not unusual. It's been estimated that there are 21,000+ firms that have been in business for more than 100 years, and 3,000+ more than 200 years.
 
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thatshoeotaku

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Impressive knowledge ob. Please tell us more!

I live in the Northamptonshire area but I've never been in the industry myself and none of my family ever worked for Church/Cheaney to my knowledge. I've only developed an interest in Cheaney much later - several years after Dr Martens closed local factories and I had thought Northampton no longer made shoes.

I happen to have a pair of 6184's that I picked at the factory shop once. Not as eye catching as the 205, 225, 125 and 130 but a very nice fitting discreet last.
125 wasn't developed specifically for the Japanese market. I understand it was the first last that Cheaney developed after the takeover from Prada.

Cheaney were strategically moving away from OEM to building their own brand presence. Having an original last and tying it together with their anniversary was a very good move to create their own identity.

Most popular model now in Japan is Cairngorm, which is on the 4436, their oldest last, apparently Cheaney lost records of when it was first introduced. It is a military last so there's that English heritage there and it works well with the Japanese fashion
 

obc28.5

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125 wasn't developed specifically for the Japanese market.
According to the Watanabe & Co website (which is the main importer of Cheaney shoes), it was.
From their website:
[2011年、ジョセフ チーニーが創業125周年を迎えて新たに生み出したのが125ラストでした。もともとは日本市場からの意見を取り入れて開発されたラストです..]
Translated: In 2011, Joseph Cheaney, to celebrate their 125th anniversary, created the 125 last. It was originally developed with input/opinions from the Japanese market...

Perhaps Watanabe is embellishing the story, but there is no doubt that Cheaney develops lasts that are compatible with their biggest foreign market.
 

The Thai Gent

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I have just recently purchased a pair of Lancaster's from their Imperial range, and I must say that I was genuinely impressed by the level of quality and craftsmanship. It's a shame that they are not as popular as the other major brands. Here's a picture.
1.jpg
 

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