ispeakbespokeitaly
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- Joined
- Jul 16, 2023
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What I think Is this : we have to do an important distinction. We have to understand if we are talking about a full unlined and unstructured jacket (and you said right that when you commission it , it will be harder to make the jacket because ALL inside sewings have to be more defined..so more work for the tailor) where there is no structure inside (so no lining and no canvas because the jacket will be like a kind of cardigan) and if we are simply talking about a no lining jacket. No lining jacket classic has canvas on the front and in the shoulders, because otherwise the jacket has not strength and shape to be kept. Then canvas is put between external fabric of the jacket and internal covering one. Lining is also inside sleeves to give the possibility to wear it easily and don’t leave the fabric getting rincle when you put the jacket on. Then the frontal part of the jacket can be half covered if the jacket has patch pockets (because they are applied on the external fabric ), while completely covered if it has welt pocket (which are cut on the fabric )." One important thing to understand is that if you opt for an unlined jacket thinking that this way the jacket will be lighter , you are going wrong, because some part of the inside at this point is not covered anymore with lining (which is really really light), but with the same fabric, so it is even havier. Hope to be helpful"
I believe this statement to be incorrect.
An unlined jacket does not have any lining only the backside of the fabric used therefor making it lighter.
The inside of an unlined jacket is not covered with another layer of fabric in my experience and most of my jackets are unlined.
In fact I have read an unlined jacket is harder to make than a lined jacket as more finished edges are needed and everything on the inside shows so needs to be made more precise.