Best Fabric for Bespoke Trousers?

[EdinburghTailors]

Hi all,

I am planning on getting some bespoke trousers made at a tailor in my area (NYC). I want them to be somewhat versatile, so that they could be worn with a sport coat/blazer or just a dress shirt, and work in most seasons (i.e., would rather have it be warmer than cooler, as nothing can stop the July/August heat).

Would cavalry twill work? A heavier wool? I'm a bit new to the menswear scene so any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[comrade]

I love cavalry twill. I have a heavy traditional weight pair
for cooler weather as well as lighter pairs for all round year
wear- I live near SanFrancisco, in dark grey and tan.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

I would vote either for cavalry twill or worsted flannel. My personal favorite trousers cloth is Taylor & Lodge (Arthur Harrison) 2080 Vintage Flannel.

 

[leapyourbar]

Holland and Sherry Crispaire, without a doubt. Can easily wear them year-round in NYC (I wear mine year round in Detroit). They travel exceptionally well too. I have the grey, navy, brown, and olive, all by Ambrosi bespoke - couldn't be happier with them.

Edit* Detroit is far colder than NYC. I wear them in January, albeit they may not be my first pick.

 

[tbbucsfan001]

What about for the hot and humid south? I have thick thighs (stay out of my DMs I'm taken), but they need to be more lightweight.

 

[leapyourbar]

fresco? fresco, however, will never work in the north more than 8 months.

 

[EdinburghTailors]

Thanks all! I'll update the thread once I pick a couple fabrics from the look-books this weekend (and any other recommendations always welcome)

 

[te0o]

Draper's Ascot bunch - the 4-ply 13oz stuff is excellent for trousers. I wear mine all year round in the UK.

 

[gimpwiz]

No such thing as a best fabric. Choices heavily depend on use. Where do you wear them, to what events, how often, what are your social circles like, how hot or cold is it, do you mostly sit or mostly stand/walk or a combination, etc.

With absolutely no guidance, I'd probably suggest a heavier weight, less-fine worsted (100s rather than 150s, right), possibly a worsted flannel even. Plain weave, twill, gabardine, maybe.

Some of my favorites are --

Most casual, hot weather:

- Many colors are possible. I like, for example: Ivory, tan, blue, rust-burgundy... more saturation and louder colors are fine here, as are louder patterns.
- Cotton chino, cotton/linen chino.
- Linen trousers. Full-cut will breathe better

Most casual, cool weather:

- Tweed. Eighteen million kinds of tweed.
- Wool/cashmere, smooth worsted or flannel worsted

Less casual, hot weather:

- Usually: Blue, navy, gray, charcoal, brown, olive, fawn, taupe, etc. Subtler patterns.
- Wool/mohair (70/30 or 85/15 or so).
- Wool/silk, wool/silk/linen, wool/cashmere, wool/silk/cashmere -- all smooth worsteds.
- Lightweight wool, smooth worsted. Same colors as above

Less casual, cool weather:

- Flannel worsted. See colors above
- Windowpanes and less-loud glen checks.

More formal:

- Worsted wools and things that look like them. Often in blues and grays, sometimes browns, sometimes other colors. Plain weave is common but not the only option. Subtle patterns can be okay, but plain is most common.

- Most formal: wear a suit, not odd trousers.

 

[tbbucsfan001]

Thoughts on windowpane odd trousers? Seems hard to pair with a jacket.

 

[EdinburghTailors]

I was thinking something that could be worn to a law firm office (I see that the term "business casual" is dreaded around here but that's the code where I work), but not so fancy or bold that it would seem too formal or out of place. Not sure if that helps but the idea is that I could just wear a dress shirt tucked in to the trousers, and occasionally put on a sport coat or blazer. Versatile, but with an emphasis on the office, if that makes sense

 

[comrade]

I was thinking something that could be worn to a law firm office (I see that the term "business casual" is dreaded around here but that's the code where I work), but not so fancy or bold that it would seem too formal or out of place. Not sure if that helps but the idea is that I could just wear a dress shirt tucked in to the trousers, and occasionally put on a sport coat or blazer. Versatile, but with an emphasis on the office, if that makes sense

Are you in Edinburgh? If so, check out Stuart Christie bespoke tailors. I love their
fabrics.Mostly too heavy for California;

Stewart Christie & Co - Bespoke Specialist Tailors, Edinburgh Scotland

Stewart Christie & Co oldest tailor in Scotland. Men's & ladies outfitters. Bespoke tailors, tweed, wool and highland wear specialists 0131 225 6639.

www.stewartchristie.com

 

[DorianGreen]

Are you in Edinburgh? If so, check out Stuart Christie bespoke tailors. I love their
fabrics.Mostly too heavy for California;

Stewart Christie & Co - Bespoke Specialist Tailors, Edinburgh Scotland

Stewart Christie & Co oldest tailor in Scotland. Men's & ladies outfitters. Bespoke tailors, tweed, wool and highland wear specialists 0131 225 6639.

www.stewartchristie.com

Thanks for the link. I wasn't aware of this one, nice things to see.

 

[DorianGreen]

I was thinking something that could be worn to a law firm office (I see that the term "business casual" is dreaded around here but that's the code where I work), but not so fancy or bold that it would seem too formal or out of place. Not sure if that helps but the idea is that I could just wear a dress shirt tucked in to the trousers, and occasionally put on a sport coat or blazer. Versatile, but with an emphasis on the office, if that makes sense

You can't go wrong with Cavalry Twill, a classic that will combine well with almost everything.

 

[classicalthunde]

Drapers Ascot 4-ply/Smith Finmeresco 4-ply for hotter weather

Holland and Sherry Dakota whipcords and cavalry twills for 3-season/year round

Woollen flannels for winter

I tend to stick to various shades of grey or tan/khaki