Bespoke Shoe - Measuring Advice

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by ShaneB

Well, possibly. The fact of the matter is that this particular cobbler generates a lot of his business via parties who more often than not never even see him face-to-face. I understand what you're saying though.
The fact of the matter is that cobblers are not makers. What do they know about fitting feet or making shoes?

 

[ShaneB]

Originally Posted by DWFII

The fact of the matter is that cobblers are not makers. What do they know about fitting feet or making shoes?

Cobblers / makers I thought the term was interchangeable. Ahhh well, semantics, as they say!

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by ShaneB

Cobblers / makers I thought the term was interchangeable. Ahhh well, semantics, as they say!
Not since the 14th century, at least. Cobblers are repairmen. Just as tinkers are repairmen. A maker is a shoemaker or a cordwainer.

 

[ShaneB]

Originally Posted by DWFII

Not since the 14th century, at least. Cobblers are repairmen. Just as tinkers are repairmen.

A maker is a shoemaker or a cordwainer.

Noted.

 

[LanceW]

There is a reason bespoke shoes include fittings. Even if the cordwainer did the measurements himself, I do not understand how he could guess how you prefer your shoes to fit. Even bespoke lasts have adjustments made.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by pgd3

My recommendation would be to look for a local Pedorthic/Comfort shop, go there and explain to the proprietor that you would like to have your feet measured for some bespoke dress shoes.

At the same time I would recommend that you purchase something from him in exchange.

Your local C.Ped could do everything from measuring, tracing, taking ink patterns, or casts that you could send along to your shoe maker.

That's a great idea!

 

[ShaneB]

Originally Posted by LanceW

There is a reason bespoke shoes include fittings. Even if the cordwainer did the measurements himself, I do not understand how he could guess how you prefer your shoes to fit. Even bespoke lasts have adjustments made.

I take your point.

To be honest I think it can be done, and evidently it has been done in the past because there are many testimonials. However, Concordia's idea definitely seems to be the best: I can fly from Heathrow to Warsaw for £80-£100 (!) so I might as well just fly there, mozey about and take in the sights, pay Kielman a visit, and fly back. I suppose he'd then have my foot measurements on 'file' and could make any further shoes for me from that. Absolute bargain!

It's just extraordinary how much cheaper these guys can make shoes when compared to others in, say, England; living in England, you seem to forget that Europe proper is only a hop skip and jump away...

 

[Michael Ay329]

Shane...have you thought about commissioning a bespoke last through Springline in Northampton?

Send the last to the maker...pay him for a sample shoe. Wear it and then go back to Springline to see what issues come up...have them maker further adjustments to the last...then send it back your shoe maker?

The beauty of Springline is that they measure you and they make the last.

I did this with Clifford Roberts...using Springline. Although Clifford measured me and personally hand delivered the paperwork to Springline...he measured me the way the last maker in Springline does

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Shane...have you thought about commissioning a bespoke last through Springline in Northampton?

Send the last to the maker...pay him for a sample shoe. Wear it and then go back to Springline to see what issues come up...have them maker further adjustments to the last...then send it back your shoe maker?

The beauty of Springline is that they measure you and they make the last.

I did this with Clifford Roberts...using Springline. Although Clifford measured me and personally hand delivered the paperwork to Springline...he measured me the way the last maker in Springline does

these does only make sense, if he wants to go through cliff. btw, isn't a springline last in the 250ies pound. janne melkersson told me, they charge 225 for lasted trees.

why should kielman use a springline last? just saying. taking the trip is a nice adventure.

 

[ShaneB]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Shane...have you thought about commissioning a bespoke last through Springline in Northampton?

Send the last to the maker...pay him for a sample shoe. Wear it and then go back to Springline to see what issues come up...have them maker further adjustments to the last...then send it back your shoe maker?

The beauty of Springline is that they measure you and they make the last.

I did this with Clifford Roberts...using Springline. Although Clifford measured me and personally hand delivered the paperwork to Springline...he measured me the way the last maker in Springline does

That sounds very interesting, infact, I suppose that's pretty much as good as actually going to the maker himself.

May I ask how much it cost you for the bespoke last?

 

[ShaneB]

Originally Posted by fritzl

these does only make sense, if he wants to go through cliff. btw, isn't a springline last in the 250ies pound. janne melkersson told me, they charge 225 for lasted trees.

why should kielman use a springline last? just saying. taking the trip is a nice adventure.

Ahhhh, if they cost that much then there's not much point. Might as well fly to Warsaw!

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by ShaneB

haha, yes I gather that! What I meant was in what way did he take his foot measurements? DIY job or did go a get it down professionally?

iirc, he did it diy after he talked to kielman and he sent a pair of his shoes with the measurements. i can ask.

i support the idea of travelling to warsaw. kielman seems the most experienced operation for this kind of project.

i talked to several makers in vienna. they didn't like the idea for some reason.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Originally Posted by ShaneB

That sounds very interesting, infact, I suppose that's pretty much as good as actually going to the maker himself.

May I ask how much it cost you for the bespoke last?

I forgot the actual amount for the bespoke last...around 225-250 pounds

The lasted shoe trees come in two piece and three piece...about 78-87 pounds

The sample shoe was 30 pounds plus shipping to the U.S.

As Fritzl stated...fly to Warsaw...but you will need to invest in a second return trip for a fitting to ensure the last made in Poland creates a good fitting shoe.

If you are unwilling to visit Warsaw...at all...the Springline route is a fine alternative

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

The lasted shoe trees come in two piece and three piece...about 78-87 pounds

not to derail. janne, said, they charged him 225 for lasted trees. anyway. iirc, the price you stated is valid, when you already have a last made by them. if they go from the scratch, it's like making an individual last.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

If you are unwilling to visit Warsaw...at all...the Springline route is a fine alternative

imo, not for a beginner. don't forget, you have already walked your miles in this field. it's not like buying a jockey classic brief - 3 pack in your size.

 

[dan'l]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but does anyone know if Jan Kielman makes tours outside of Poland, at least within Central Europe? Or is it considered uncommon for cordwainers to do this?