Bespoke or MTM my only choice?

[RangerMatt]

Hi All, recently found this forum and absolutely love it! I have a question I'm hoping you guys can help me with.

I am a 44R (sometimes 44L depending on maker) with a 34 waist, currently I can only afford OTR suits but the jackets have way to much cloth from the lats on down and the trousers are way to big. Do any suit makers offer a 9-10" drop or can a tailor get the suit to look right?

When I was in the Army I had to have my Class A jacket taken in and it just never looked right (was a 42R with 30 inch waist then) and since Class A's were sold as seperates didn't have the problem with the standard 6" drop.

My thinking is that a 4" reduction in the trousers is just to much and they will never look right and based on my experience with my Class A's neither would the jacket. I've given some thought to taking a 44R and a 40R into the dressing room and switching the trousers but I don't think my conscious would allow me. Is Bespoke or MTM my only option? Also, (sorry if this is a stupid question) does MTM have a drop or can I get the trousers in any waist size I desire?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

 

[Cary Grant]

Depending on budget- a good choice would be M-T-O or a singles/separates program.

Cohen, Coppley, Samuelssohn (iirc) do programs where the pants and coats are paired correctly for your size out of otherwise more-or-less OTR stock.

So- if you need 32S in waist/length for a 44L coat. They can order it for you. You also get to choose from their fabrics and a few basics style choices. Most such programs start around $500 per 2pc suit.

 

[Nicola]

Separates.

One thing you might still need to get the jackets altered. Just make sure they fit in the shoulders.

The girl at one local shop keeps trying to convince me they can alter anything [they do free alterations ] I wonder what her dad the tailor would think if he had to alter every single measurement for me

 

[polar-lemon]

Originally Posted by RangerMatt

Hi All, recently found this forum and absolutely love it! I have a question I'm hoping you guys can help me with.

I am a 44R (sometimes 44L depending on maker) with a 34 waist, currently I can only afford OTR suits but the jackets have way to much cloth from the lats on down and the trousers are way to big. Do any suit makers offer a 9-10" drop or can a tailor get the suit to look right?

When I was in the Army I had to have my Class A jacket taken in and it just never looked right (was a 42R with 30 inch waist then) and since Class A's were sold as seperates didn't have the problem with the standard 6" drop.

My thinking is that a 4" reduction in the trousers is just to much and they will never look right and based on my experience with my Class A's neither would the jacket. I've given some thought to taking a 44R and a 40R into the dressing room and switching the trousers but I don't think my conscious would allow me. Is Bespoke or MTM my only option? Also, (sorry if this is a stupid question) does MTM have a drop or can I get the trousers in any waist size I desire?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

MTM might be a good choice for you, though separates would work as well. Trousers can be recut, but it takes a competent tailor; it's also difficult to find the right silhouette OTR that can be altered accordingly.

 

[GBR]

Yes

 

[RangerMatt]

Ok, so OTR is out of the question. I've thought separates myself as has been stated in multiple replies but for some reason I've always thought that separates mean lower quality. Is this wrong on my part?

Understand I've always been a bit dressier for my area but all that means is a pair of shined shoes (very low quality shoes due to budget but shining is a hold over from my military days) a half way decent pressed shirt and jeans without holes. I really want to take my wardrobe to the next level, that's why I'm inquiring about suits.

I'm thinking for now I might just go with a sports coat either bespoke or MTM, to avoid the excessive tailoring my build would require of an OTR jacket, that I can wear with jeans. I know jeans are very much frowned upon on this forum but in the next few months my budget will increase so I want to ease myself into the whole transition. I'm thinking Mr. Ned's or Astor & Black. I've seen mostly good reviews about Mr. Ned's and very mixed reviews about Astor & Black. Would also add a pair of conservative AE shoes with the sports coat. Is this a good start?

 

[RangerMatt]

Also want to add I appreciate the kind replies. I've seen some very harsh replies which gave me pause about doing a first post. Thanks for not blasting me out of the water!!

 

[Nicola]

There is no reason for separates to be lower quality then a suit. If you wear a suit pant without the jacket it's a separate. The quality hasn't changed.

If you're paying for alterations then MTM can end up cheaper then off the rack. Look for a local tailor and see what they charge. I've been searching locally and the prices aren't that much more then off the rack. If I had to pay for alterations MTM actually comes out cheaper.

 

[seok]

Does Brooks Bro let you match across sizes in suit jacket and pants? I'm in the market for my father

 

[seok]

repeated post, deleted.

 

[boo]

eHaberdasher's Benjamin line has what seems to be a high-quality separates offering.

 

[Despos]

Going with separates only addresses the trouser issue. The jacket will still have a 6" drop or so and you will have to go the extensive alteration route that your own experience has proven difficult. Try Ned and see if can do what you want. Depending on your lifestyle and need for the suit, it may be worth investing more for one great fitting suit.