bespoke novice, experiences with Graham Browne or Choppin & Lodge?

[jcbarret]

Hi,

I'm thinking of taking the plunge into the bespoke world. As an academic, suits aren't that useful to me, so I'm looking to have a sports coat made. Current possibilities are either Graham Browne or Choppin & Lodge (conveniently located above/below each other). I'm interested in both generic advice on getting the most out of the experience and any past experience with these tailors.

Graham Browne seems to have given a positive experience in this thread but I was made slightly nervous by this experience of another bespoke novice which made me wonder if bespoke is a waste if you don't know enough to demand exactly what you want.

Simon Crompton seems to have had a good experience with both, which is reassuring. There isn't much online press about Choppin & Lodge (I gather the name has only recently been revived), but their penchant for softer jackets has me leaning that way.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[SimonC]

Simon Crompton (not me despite the similar name) is known to promote products on his blog in return for free merchandise. In this context I'd be wary of 'Choppin & Lodge' - Simon got the suit for free, even he recognised there were some basic mistakes made (i.e. the sleeve lining) and I think the actual construction is done via Graham Browne's usual outworkers.

That notwithstanding, I've had a couple of suits cut by Russell at Graham Browne and they're exactly what I asked for, competently executed, and reasonably priced. If you search this forum and others you'll see there are numerous other 'budget' London bespoke tailors, so it's worth settling down with a cup of tea and doing some reading.

 

[dirtyturk]

If you are not a frequent wearer of suits with considerable knowledge as to why mohair is better in the summer or why fat people need longer gorges etc., going bespoke is hardly going to be worth it - in my opinion.

There are 3 kinds of people that go bespoke:

• "The Rich" - People with money to burn and no clue about suits (ie. famous people).
• "The Educated" - People with in-depth knowledge and obsessive sartorial tendencies (ie. some people on this forum)
• "The Tourists" - people who value their money but don't know a great deal about suits and have heard bespoke is really really good

If you are asking a question like this on an online forum, then you my friend are a Tourist. As such I would recommend reading this thread:

For "tourists" to go bespoke it is like asking for a self portrait and completely entrusting the painter to do whatever. Sure it might be a great painting, but you might not want to look at it every day.

I went the cheap bespoke route first, trusted, *ahem* got pushed around by the tailor and ended up with basically my grandfathers suit with a red lapel buttonhole. Unwearable! After 2 years of research and experience, I went back and am now (hopefully) getting something much closer to what I want.
Note: I didn't change tailor,as the quality and construction were good.

good luck!

 

[james_timothy]

But since we are SF, we encourage tourists to go bespoke- if they do their research first.

A good place to start here would be the "Trials and Tribulations of Bespoke" thread.

 

[jcbarret]



Simon Crompton (not me despite the similar name) is known to promote products on his blog in return for free merchandise. In this context I'd be wary of 'Choppin & Lodge' - Simon got the suit for free, even he recognised there were some basic mistakes made (i.e. the sleeve lining) and I think the actual construction is done via Graham Browne's usual outworkers.

I knew Simon got discounts/free merchandise, but it wasn't clear to me that this particular suit was free. In fact, he says that the suit "cost £875", which I interpreted to be what he paid for it, but maybe he just meant that's what plebs without famous style blogs would have to pay? Was there some other indication this particular suit was free?

 

[jcbarret]



But since we are SF, we encourage tourists to go bespoke- if they do their research first.

A good place to start here would be the "Trials and Tribulations of Bespoke" thread.

If you are asking a question like this on an online forum, then you my friend are a Tourist. As such I would recommend reading this thread

Thanks for the tips on good starting threads, both. My research continues! (and yes, I think you could safely classify me as a tourist at this stage)

 

[Stanley the 2nd]

Graham Browne have made a few jackets for me and I would say do it. I've read more positives than negatives about their work. I would recommend going for a fairly conservative jacket which won't date and don't try and direct the tailors. They are experts and it's best to let them get on with their job.

 

[robinsongreen68]

they didn't seem to with that other bespoke novice guy... i would say you need to specify EXACTLY what you want with GB, based on his experience.

 

[jcbarret]



i would say you need to specify EXACTLY what you want with GB, based on his experience.

I'm sort of inclined to agree, but then again what should he have said? "I'd like this suit to fit properly."

 

[Stanley the 2nd]

The GB suit that appeared on here the other day was the first questionable thing I've seen from them. I think it you look at the suits they have made for Guy Hills and the Simon Crompeton give a better impression of what they can make.

 

[robinsongreen68]

^ yeah that's exactly my point, i think they are capable but unless you know a lot about the process and what you have in mind you might end up with 'your dad' s suit', as that poor bloke did. so perhaps not suitable for a first bespoke experience.
a friend of mine went to eddie kerr, not really knowing much about the process, just that he wanted a nice fitted slim cut SB with narrow lapels, and came out looking great. The cutter there, a Jamaican guy named Ron, got it immediately and did a great job for a similar price to GB.

 

[dmkbuxton]

For future reference I would recommend Choppin & Lodge without reservation. I've just collected two suits of which the quality of make and finish is outstanding. Richard has been amazing throughout and more than helpful; his guidance and attention to detail have been flawless - from the choice of fabric and lining to pocket style. If you'd like any photographs etc. just let me know.

 

[Chicaboo]

I just saw this as I was looking for C&L phone number, I had a semi Neapolitan jacket made by Richard at Choppin and lodge and it blew me away!! I have been wearing Kiton for years and gave him a try after seeing a colleague at work wearing one of his suits, Well worth the money !
Alex

 

[Chicaboo]

What did you have made? Did you give a brief? I went in my Kiton jacket and let him run riot! My only requirement was navy blue. I' was supised that he works in the city given his West End experience! I laughed when he said "He wanted a five day week"
I am going for a grey flannell suit this time!!
Alex

 

[ALondoner]

My advice is to keep away from Choppin and Lodge.

The worst tailoring experience I've ever had and one I would urge everyone to avoid. Choppin and Lodge are located at a premium City address, something that attracts unassuming clients like myself, who are led to expect a matching level of service. Not only is their service inadequate, it is also amateur and frustrating. In fact Choppin and Lodge are using clients' money and time trying to learn how to make suits. If they manage to get it right you’re lucky; if not you lose.

I visited their shop in May 2014 for a plain colour 2-piece suit. I was served by Ryan, who said it would take 6-8 weeks and 3 fittings to make the suit. Fourteen (14) weeks and ten (10!) fittings later, all he'd managed to make was a jacket that wouldn't even button up. Frustrated from being deceived like that, I asked for my money back. Indeed Ryan promised a refund, only to receive a phonecall a couple of hours later from his boss, someone called Russell. He refused the refund and said that he would make the suit himself, as he supposedly knows better than Ryan and he could get it right. I told him I've neither the time nor the money to continue this game. I insisted on being refunded, something that didn't happen (of course).

Choppin and Lodge kept both my deposit and the unacceptable garment they made.

Unfortunately, having to deal with merchants of this kind, the only option one has are Trading Standards agencies and consumer protection groups. Also, making others aware of what they should expect from such a business. Unless you want to fund tailoring apprenticeships, throwing away your money and time, avoid fake tailors Choppin and Lodge. Go to one of the many real tailors in London instead.