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Advice on Bespoke options in/Near London

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oligarch, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. Oligarch

    Oligarch Senior Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm looking to have a few suits made, and currently living in London.

    In the past, I had some MTM stuff done by Mr. Ned when living NY, at Scabal in Istanbul, and through Thomas Mahon (both English Cut and Redmayne).

    My experiences with the above have varied, and I'm thinking of stepping it up a bit and going for one of the lower-priced bespoke options available to me here in London. I'm currently considering Whitcomb & Shaftesbury and Vergallo. Both have been praised on Permanent Style, but I take reviews there with a pinch of salt given the conflicts of interest (I don't think anyone getting thousands of pounds' worth of tailoring for "free" can remain fully objective) and my own less-than-satisfying experiences with some of Simon's recommended options.

    Has anyone had any recent experiences with Whitcomb (their cut in London, made in India) and/or Vergallo? Any comments on the relative attractiveness of Solito? Any other options in their general price range? I'm open to considering anyone in London or who is frequently enough in London so that the non-London location does not become an impediment to the rhythm of fittings.

    At the moment, I was thinking of commissioning a navy linen 2-piece suit. The idea would be to have something that I could use for work as a suit when needed, but then also break up and use as odd trousers or jacket (with chinos or jeans) in a more casual way in summer (including considerable time outside London).

    Longer-term, I'd like to find someone I could place more orders with for a winter overcoat as well as woolen suits/jackets. Probably looking to order an overcoat + fall/winter navy cashmere jacket + 2-3 suits over the next 12-18 months. Obviously, different tailors may have a house style that is more appropriate to one than the other, but I'm hoping to be able to find someone that I can work with on more than just one item to avoid too many gambles.

    Any advice/experiences/tips would be appreciated.
     

  2. jonathanS

    jonathanS Distinguished Member

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    Find a tailor who you feel comfortable with, who's house style fits your body type best, & see where it goes. You don't have to go Huntsman, but I wouldn't aggressively skimp either.
     

  3. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Cad & The Dandy make some nice stuff.
     

  4. Oligarch

    Oligarch Senior Member

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    Thanks Erik. I had considered them, but was a bit curious as to how they were keeping such pricing for fully handmade bespoke without cutting corners. I've since seen that you have had some nice pieces made, and presumably they have held up well. Did you use a particular cutter? Their booking system doesn't seem to offer John Deboise, who I've seen mentioned on other threads. Have you typically dealt with the same cutter for your various fittings, or had to switch between them?
     

  5. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    To be completely honest, I am very biased in this matter. I recently bought a tailoring shop in Stockholm in partnership with the owners of C&D. We now offer their suits through our shop as well.

    But, with that said, I go through their bespoke process just like any other customer. They're good! I'd recommend Joe, he's done a great job of taking my measurements. the craftsmanship is as good as any SR tailor IMHO.
     

  6. Oligarch

    Oligarch Senior Member

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    Thanks Erik. By Joe do you mean Joseph Bretagne? Seems to work only Saturdays. Is he the one?
     

  7. blindlemonjeff

    blindlemonjeff Member

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    Who did you end up going with? And what was your experience with Redmayne like?
     

  8. Oligarch

    Oligarch Senior Member

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    For the linen suit, I ended up going with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. It was a bit slower than I expected initially, but in the end was a good result, I think. I've yet to go back to work out a few kinks, but so far, the experience was good and I'm considering them for the next commission.

    I'm still trying to work out stuff with Redmayne, so can't really make a definitive comment in fairness.
     

  9. blindlemonjeff

    blindlemonjeff Member

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    Interesting. Did you do the partly made-in-India option? I'm considering it but having trouble finding recent reviews
     

  10. Oligarch

    Oligarch Senior Member

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    Yes, I did the initial consultation and all fittings in London (where I'm based) but the stitching was done in India. I'm hardly an expert on this stuff, but didn't see any issues with workmanship -- was happy with that. The only thing I'd mention is that this can mean that the timeline gets stretched out... When I asked that I have the number of intermediate fittings we initially discussed, that somehow added a few weeks to the process. I imagine doing it from the US may be that much more complicated. Just something to keep in mind.
     

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