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Back of my suit

RevisIsland

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So I decided to go off the rack for my first two suits. I have a normal build so I didn't think I would have a problem. So I bought two suits, had them tailored and they really look great----from the front. The problem I have is that they don't look so great from the back. The tailors at BB told me there is nothing to do---that I have to live with the fabric bunching up in the back. I was hoping the fabric would drape better. Can anyone opine as to if something like this is fixable? Any tailor recommendations in NYC that might be able to fix something like this? Any help is appreciated. First time posting pictures so I may have to edit. http://photobucket.com/ribbbfsuit Edited to fix my picture. Try the link instead.
 

acecow

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If I rotate my monitor to view the pictures, I can't read the text any more. Please advise.
 

mrjames

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I too would like an answer to this question. I've come to the conclusion that when it comes to tailored RTW one has to accept that there is only soo much tucking that can be done and as such you have to compromise between the front fit or the back fit. Unless you have that perfect silhoutte which can fill a suit

I think this is the difference between RTW and MTM, MTM can be made with the balance in mind, RTW has to be pulled into shape, and there is usually no way to disguise the alteration


what did you have altered?

Jackets look a little big on the shoulders, I probably would have sized down 1. They look quite thin too, i'm guessing half lined? It's difficult to get a good fit on a jacket with such little weight/stiffness in the fabric
 

RevisIsland

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Thanks for the replies. Let me take some pictures from the front---i think the shoulders look great from the front. I should probably add that these are BBBF suits and that might have to do with the problem. Honestly I don't think sizing down would help me. I'm a size 41R and these suits are BB2 (40R).
 

SirGrotius

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That doesn't look normal to me. There shouldn't be bunching. Was that the in-store tailor? It looks like you have the wrong size (from the back).
 

mrjames

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I think you definitely 100% need to size down, or get a slimmer cut
If the store assistant told you that it looked fine, then don't listen to them- in my experience there's a 1/6 chance you'll actually get someone who knows what they're talking about.

When you're new to suiting (not that you are) you think something fits fine and looks/feels good, but then you learn how things should fit and all of a sudden it looks like a sack and you can't move
people get it into their heads that a suits shoulder pads should line up with the edge of their shoulders, but this isn't the 80's- there isn't that much padding anymore to make that a viable reference, the shoulder seam should (for me at least) sit 2 fingers width from jacket edge- if you have more padding you can wear a bigger jacket and it will look ok, I have padded jackets in a size 40 which look ok, but in a unstructured jacket I have to take a 36- that means the 40 is 2 sizes too big, and it is visually big- but not as huge as it probably should be

We really need to see the pictures from the front


The shoulders aren't the main issue anyway, from the looks of you you're shoulders are wide compared to your waist, so you have to get something very fitted for it to fit you in the waist/chest. The bagginess of the underarm is caused by having to get a jacket to fit your wide shoulder, which is disproportionally wide compared to your chest


Guessing you can't take the suit back? Restructuring the shoulders is going to be costly and time consuming as you'll have to just keep trying half an inch here and there until it fits, then try another half an inch to get a perfect fit, then you realise you've fucked up the cut and wish you'd never bothered
it is doable though, with time money and a good tailor


made to measure would be a good option for you

I may be talking rubbish, so please correct me if I am
 

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