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JimmyHoffa

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Suburban eatery Attica, in Ripponlea, Melbourne, makes world's top 50

by: John Lethlean
From: The Australian
April 30, 2013 6:50AM

A TINY Melbourne restaurant has had a meteoric rise in the international rankings that recognise the industry's most creative souls.

Attica, in the suburb of Ripponlea, has burst into the World's 50 Best Restaurants list at number 21 after years of knocking on the door. (See Attica's entry in The Australian's Hot 50 here.)

It is a staggering rise from its 2012 ranking of 63. Attica is run by Australia's most talked about chef - internationally - Ben Shewry, a New Zealander.

Speaking from London, Shewry told The Australian he and his business partner David Maccora were "completely stunned."

"They kept counting down from 50 and all these people just started turning round to look at us as it kept going... It was quite surreal."

"Obviously it is pretty amazing for us but you've also got to realise this may be the only time it happens, so while we will cherish the moment, you can't get carried away with it. "

Shewry said he planned to attend a few after-parties "but to tell you the truth, my idea of partying is a bit tame." He and Maccora planned to visit a few restaurants in the UK for a bit of quiet celebration before flying home Thursday.

Conversely Sydney's Quay (Hot 50 entry here) has, according to the ratings system contrived by British trade magazine Restaurant and now seen as the international arbiter of culinary cool, slipped 19 places, to 48, from the previous year.

Quay chef Peter Gilmore, speaking from London, remained upbeat. "We're really thrilled to still be on the list after five years," said the veteran of the Guildhall event.

"But the really big congratulations go to Ben at Attica... long overdue, we're thrilled for him."

We're not Spain, the US or even Scandinavia, but this morning's announcement in London was welcome recognition of Australia's maturing restaurant scene. For the first time since early last decade, two Australian restaurants are in the coveted 50 Best Restaurants list.

Not since early last decade, when Sydney's Tetsuya's and Rockpool were both routinely included on the 11-year old ranking system, has Australia boasted more than one restaurant on the list.

There was more good news for Australia this morning: Nahm, in Bangkok, run by Australian chef David Thompson, moved up the list 18 places, to 32; The Ledbury, a London restaurant co-owned and run by Newcastle native Brett Graham, moved up one place to 13 on the list, the highest ranked restaurant in the world with an Australian chef. And Momofuku Seiobo (see our review, giving it 4.5 out of 5, here), an American-owned restaurant at Star, Sydney, debuted on the list at 89.

According to the sometimes contentious rankings, Noma, in Copenhagen, which has had a stranglehold on the title of "world's best restaurant" for three years, can no longer make the boast. The restaurant run by Spain's Roca brothers - El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, moved from second into the coveted Number One spot this morning.

The slide down the slippery pole of the list's system of international jurors for Sydney's Quay is perplexing.

Quay joined the elite in 2009, with a debut 0f 46. That year, it joined Tetsuya's at 17. But by the following year's list, Quay had leapfrogged Tetsuya's to a near-peak at 27, while the Japanese-inspired luxury restaurant slipped to 39. A measure, perhaps, of food fashionability, Tetsuya's has gone from the Top 100 altogether. Tetsuya Wakuda's Singapore restaurant, where dinner and a drink will cost you $500 a head, has also suffered a mighty slide, going from 39 last year to 68 for 2013.

Marque, in Surry Hills (our review: 4.5 out of 5), has gone out the back door of the list too, from 61 last year. Its owner and chef, Mark Best, was sanguine. "That's show biz," he said. "I'm Incredibly proud of Ben. He has a wonderful, original story to tell and being in Riponlea has ironically turned into the restaurant's major asset. Couldn't have happened to a nicer guy"

But at the top of the tree, it really been a matter of shuffling the deck chairs.

According to the list, New York's Eleven Madison Park, run by Swiss born chef Daniel Humm, is now the best restaurant in the US; it leapt five spots from 10 last year.

2013 Top 5
El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Spain)
Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Osteria Francensana (Modena, Italy)
Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain)
Eleven Madison Park (New York, USA)

2012 top 5
Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)
El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Spain)
Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain)
D.O.M (Sao Paulo, Brazil)
Osteria Francensana (Modena, Italy)
I was fortunate enough to eat at Attica in January this year. It was the best dining experience I have ever had. Extremely affordable and the service was exceptional. I had a lengthy conversation with Ben in his garden. A truly outstanding man, with a great deal of talent.
 

Prince of Paisley

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I've noticed that MJ Bale has started mixing poly into a few of their products. Is this a worrying sign? Gant Rugger did the same thing a few years back: built up the customer base, then suddenly their crew necks that were 100% wool of 100% cotton the year before were 50/50 blends.

http://www.mjbale.com/whats-new/knight-navy-jacket ($595!)
http://www.mjbale.com/clothing/coats-and-jackets/coats/silberberg-tobacco-coat
http://www.mjbale.com/clothing/coats-and-jackets/coats/silberberg-navy-coat
http://www.mjbale.com/whats-new/keating-denim-coat

Their rain macs last year were 100% cotton at the same price (GN and I both own one).

I know that there is a lot of nice poly out there and it doesn't deserve to be condemned purely on the fact that it's synthetic (and it is quite useful for waterproofing in things like rain macs), but still.
Rain macs with poly I can live with. For better or worse there is a pretty good tradition of poly blend (or nylon) raincoats etc. I'm less willing to forgive poly blend jackets, especially for a brand who's very name is so entwined* with the notion of using Australian merino.


*nominee for fxh-style pun of the day.
 

Journeyman

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Rain macs with poly I can live with. For better or worse there is a pretty good tradition of poly blend (or nylon) raincoats etc. I'm less willing to forgive poly blend jackets, especially for a brand who's very name is so entwined* with the notion of using Australian merino.


*nominee for fxh-style pun of the day.


+1. Given that Jensen has stated that he named the brand after bales of wool and his family's wool-farming heritage, it smacks of hypocrisy to start selling jackets that are 50% polyester.

Admittedly, the odd jacket in question is 50% cotton and 50% polyester, rather than wool/poly, but it's still pretty poor form, particularly when the MJ Bale website talks about the trouble that they go to in selecting textiles and making sure the finest fabrics are used in their products.
 

lachyzee

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+1. Given that Jensen has stated that he named the brand after bales of wool and his family's wool-farming heritage, it smacks of hypocrisy to start selling jackets that are 50% polyester.

Admittedly, the odd jacket in question is 50% cotton and 50% polyester, rather than wool/poly, but it's still pretty poor form, particularly when the MJ Bale website talks about the trouble that they go to in selecting textiles and making sure the finest fabrics are used in their products.


It's advertised in their recent email as a "travel jacket", which may have something to do with the composition. Still, I'd think other combos would be better.
 

Prince of Paisley

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It's advertised in their recent email as a "travel jacket", which may have something to do with the composition. Still, I'd think other combos would be better.
I suppose the idea with the poly is it holds its shape better when sitting on long haul flights, packed in suitases etc. But I have to say my 100% wool Westferry from a couple of seasons back has been an excellent travel jacket in that regard, so I'm not sure you really need to mix poly in there, you just have to get the weave right for crease resistance.
 

fxh

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Rain macs with poly I can live with. For better or worse there is a pretty good tradition of poly blend (or nylon) raincoats etc. I'm less willing to forgive poly blend jackets, especially for a brand who's very name is so entwined* with the notion of using Australian merino.

*nominee for fxh-style pun of the day.


I suppose it depends if the customer feels they are being fleeced or having the wool pulled over their eyes. You would think after all the PR about merino etc that they'd be a bit sheepish about using poly.
 

fxh

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I was fortunate enough to eat at Attica in January this year. It was the best dining experience I have ever had. Extremely affordable and the service was exceptional. I had a lengthy conversation with Ben in his garden. A truly outstanding man, with a great deal of talent.


When I go there and eat at my usual table I often have a chat about the business. We usually share a quiet vintage port or two in the garden while he politely asks my advice on food. When he knocks off we often text TBM and head off for a sooovo laki and a Bundy & Coke. Top bloke.
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Re Bale and quality:

I find it's hit and miss.

What I still like about HBone is this:

The product somehow feels more refined. As I mentioned earlier, the hand is softer, the osaka cut is fuller and not too skinny, the lapels (Osaka again) are wider and roll quite nicely etc.

Can't get more specific than that; it's very much in the realm of opinion.
 

Journeyman

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When I go there and eat at my usual table I often have a chat about the business. We usually share a quiet vintage port or two in the garden while he politely asks my advice on food. When he knocks off we often text TBM and head off for a sooovo laki and a Bundy & Coke. Top bloke.


FXH - a man for all seasons.
 

tobiasj

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Re Bale and quality:

I find it's hit and miss.

What I still like about HBone is this:

The product somehow feels more refined. As I mentioned earlier, the hand is softer, the osaka cut is fuller and not too skinny, the lapels (Osaka again) are wider and roll quite nicely etc.

Can't get more specific than that; it's very much in the realm of opinion.


I agree. Bale is great for what it is, but it lacks a certain je ne sais quoi...non?
 

AriGold

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I suppose it depends if the customer feels they are being fleeced or having the wool pulled over their eyes. You would think after all the PR about merino etc that they'd be a bit sheepish about using poly.


Someone buy this man a beer!
 
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