Australian Members

[Romp]

Just out of interest, how would a Cottonwork ($75 tier) compare against Herringbone's $180 shirts? And what about the Thomas Mason and Tessitura Monti tiers?

One other thing I've noticed is that Cottonwork's TessMonti shirts are 200 thread-count (and cost approx 210 AUD) and the Thomas Mason ones are 120 thread-count and cost $140. Are Thomas Mason and TessMonti otherwise of equal quality?

all my MTM business shirts are thomas mason fabric and I dont see much reason to go higher quality. They are great daily wearers for me

 

[joiji]

Hey Jas; I just realised I ordered my bowtie from Henry Carter without making an account.... I can't seem to check order status etc.
(paid with paypal maybe that's why)

I pay for my orders through PayPal, and they appear later that week. I wouldn't be worried.

 

[CHECKstar]



Cross post
Final sizing on chinos - we are running 20% off the entire range which is stackable with the StyleForum "SF10" code ... so they reduce from $169 down to $121.68 with free domestic shipping.

I can't believe that my size 50 ass missd out on this smashing deal...

 

[Journeyman]

Here are a few photos of yesterday's outfit, including a recently-acquired Herringbone bow tie:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Details:

- Herringbone Sydney suit in medium grey PoW check with blue overcheck;
- Herringbone Sydney blue polka-dot bow tie;
- Herringbone Sydney silk-cotton pocket square;
- Deer Style MTO shirt in sky blue, end-on-end weave;
- Chestnut C&J Audleys.

 

[nabilmust]

Cottonwork doesn't seem to provide info on ply count unfortunately, but both are 'Super-fine Egyptian cotton' according to the website, and all are pure cotton generally. I'm mainly interested in whether TessMonti is noticeably better than the Thomas Mason fabric (which I have a sample of, and was quite impressed by when feeling it and comparing to Cottonwork's own fabric tiers). Thanks for the info re: ply count though, will keep an eye out. Generally 2-ply cotton shirts tend to be standard at the higher end, as I understand it?

Yes.

'pure cotton' and '100% pure cotton' is a material difference, and can go to cost, as well. (At the risk of sounding banal, or snooty, but that's not my intention, I promise.)

Some labels will say Pure Cotton -- that is a reference that the cotton in the shirt is pure cotton, but it could still be a blend of pure cotton and any number of other materials. A '100% pure cotton' shirt means, well, that.

Also, Thomas Mason has a couple of lines of cotton - their standard line, Silverline, Goldline, a 'bespoke line' for P Johnson, and cotton they use for J Crew shirts.The grade of the cotton within the same mill factor into the cost, as well. Each shirt (made from Thomas Mason cotton) by different makers costs different.

Before we start splitting hairs: if I had to choose between the shirts, I'd let the workmanship and finish be the deciding factors. And as a tie-breaker, I'd go with whichever cotton felt nicer, personally, against my skin.

 

[LonerMatt]

Too true. And having worked for Fletcher Jones when 90% of it was still Australian made, I've seen the demise in skills first hand. There is no younger generation being taught tailoring, yet there are plenty of fashion designers that can sew creating "fashion" but could they put a canvas in to a coat? The answer is 99% no except for a few.

I still wish there were a few old Fletcher Jones tailors around that had started there own shows to at least make trousers, because there were some cracking flannels, cavalry twills and all sorts coming out in those days, which was really only 10 years ago. Problem is, they were all old factory workers and not entrepranuers, living in Warnambool and mostly retired by now. I'd really love to be able to carry Australian made stuff, but I just can't find it anymore.

Do you think that there's any chance of younger Australians reskilling and restarting the niche industry? Or something that's just not forseeable?

 

[fxh]



So I have two wedding invitations this year, and I currently own 0 suits. Neither wedding is black/white tie - so a simple suit should suffice.
Thinking back over the discussions I've read, I can recall two major options for suiting in Australia:
- MJ Bale (plus alteration)
- PJ MTM
I know Romp's hinted at some other stuff, and people have mentioned Azzaro in Melbourne a few times as a place with some options (although the other retailers like American Tailors, and Henry Bucks are usually 'overpriced', correct?).
I suppose I'm tossing up whether it's worth going the MTM route (which is most money, but from reports of higher quality) or OTR + alterations (presuming the suits can be altered appropriately).
Some of the things that are attracting me to PJ are:
- Choice of cloth (since I sweat a lot and often feel 'too warm)
- Measurements done by someone who is (presumably) competent (I don't know a decent tailor, nor do I have much of an idea about what makes a good suit)
- Options (in terms of colours, construction, detailing)
How does that compare with MJ Bale? Have I missed any options that are worth considering?

Everything that others have said is useful to absorb.

I'd just add that unless your work calls for a suit - one suit will be more than enough. In general it should do you for weddings, cocktails, funerals and any sort of more formal event. You want to avoid a too light "fun" suit (Melb Cup Suit) as it looks a bit out of place at funerals. The standard advice to go to either charcoal or darkish grey and /or Navy Blue for first or basic suits. Most would say that Navy is the most versatile but a good mid -dark grey will work well. NB:: The only, but its an important one, caveat with Navy is that if you are young and /or have a youngish round (babyish in the vernacular) then a Navy will paradoxically make you look younger and a bit incongruous rather than older.

As others have pointed out theres two mutually exclusive, but equally useful, bits of advice for the first (or one and only) suit. That is pay a few extra $ and get a good one MTM, that fits you very spiffily, say PJ etc - you will be looking at $1500 at least. The other bit of advice is to try on lots of OTR in places like DJs and you might find one brand and style that fits you very well for around $500+.

Getting one MTM can be a bit overkill if you don't wear it much, have other priorities for $$ and your weight and style preferences may change and you may only get 2 or 3 or 4 wears a year out of it. OTOH getting a Navy or perhaps lighter blue suit with a bit of interest in the wave, mottled brown buttons and say patch pockets in hips gives you a blazer/jacket to wear with a nice pair of grey woolen trousers or even tan/khaki/off white chinos for a myriad of occasions, with or without tie.

To get a OTR you are happy with you'll need to do a lot of trying on - but then you'll have to do that to get to understand suits anyway. You only need to try the jacket on in most cases. Don't try and get a perfect suit first up, don't worry about canvassing /fused etc - just get it looking and feeling right. Get the sleeves and trousers altered to the right length and you'll look better than 95% of people and possibly better than many on forums.

If I'm taking a person for their first suit I take them to Azzaro or even Travellers warehouse in Collingwood. Travellers may not win points on forums but they are more than OK suits (they make for a lot of brands) and they will do alterations free. (As a side note I'm not sure I'd take their style advice but at least one bloke there is a tailor and they make most of their their stuff upstairs) They have an even cheaper warehouse near Northland if you are out that way. If you can have someone with you who knows what they are doing in fitting and what might suit you its even better.

 

[TehBunny]

Thanks for the replies on the HC wasn't too worried that it won't arrive just that I paid without making a HC account.

 

[Henry Carter]



Hey Jas; I just realised I ordered my bowtie from Henry Carter without making an account.... I can't seem to check order status etc.
(paid with paypal maybe that's why)

No worries it was sent yesterday anyway by Auspost. Usually 1-2 days so hopefully you might get it tomorrow.

 

[Henry Carter]



Do you think that there's any chance of younger Australians reskilling and restarting the niche industry? Or something that's just not forseeable?

Not really, unless the major tafe's can find some tailors willing to teach tailoring, instead of designer's or dressmakers teaching fashion design. I suspect the problem lies here, not so much with younger people willing to learn. That, and there is an extremely low call for bespoke tailoring in Australia. Even the current prominent shop in Australia, P.Johnson Tailors, are not tailors themselves, it's all outsourced. And I don't say that to put them down, I say it to say you don't need to be a tailor to have a successful business/career in menswear. But there's all the marketing, business acumen, press etc you do need and unfortunately most true tailors don't have the latter.

 

[Prince of Paisley]



Farage gave a presentation to some of my associates, and he reportedly said that up until about a year ago he maintained Australian manufacturing because the quality wasn't up to scratch offshore for suits of the same price. He now plans to use more offshore production (perhaps all of it) as the quality suit manufacturing in China has surpassed that in Australia for the same price point.

Take this with a grain of salt as it is hearsay.

Yes, I would be inclined to... not saying it isn't true, but most of the evidence I've seen is to the contrary. My feeling would be that Farage kept manufacturing in Australia as long as they did in spite of the qualityrice ratio offered overseas. Of course he can't say that though, as he'd be admitting his competitors have a price and quality edge!

It's almost as puzzling a comment as when Theo Poulakis (Harrolds) said to us a couple of years back that he didn't think online was a threat to his business...

 

[LonerMatt]

Not really, unless the major tafe's can find some tailors willing to teach tailoring, instead of designer's or dressmakers teaching fashion design. I suspect the problem lies here, not so much with younger people willing to learn. That, and there is an extremely low call for bespoke tailoring in Australia. Even the current prominent shop in Australia, P.Johnson Tailors, are not tailors themselves, it's all outsourced. And I don't say that to put them down, I say it to say you don't need to be a tailor to have a successful business/career in menswear. But there's all the marketing, business acumen, press etc you do need and unfortunately most true tailors don't have the latter.

I find these aspects of the business quite fascinating.

I am still surprised how few world renowned tailors have a decent website (Despos, for example).

 

[Prince of Paisley]



If you can have someone with you who knows what they are doing in fitting and what might suit you its even better.

That sounds suspiciously like you are volunteering yourself to take the lad under your wing.

 

[wishiwasricher]

Just bought my first lot of HC ties! Thanks Jase. Had a role change which means more shirts and ties for me (got some Mj bale as the fit is great on me so for 50 bucks cant go past it!)

 

[aussiejake]

Couple of questions regarding accessories:

Kent Wang for my first cuff links? Something simple like the knot silver or silver barbell?

What first 5-6 colours of pocket squares should I get for a navy and charcoal suit? Buying from Kent Wang, Sam Hober or Vanda most likely.

Any guide to colouring of pocket squares?