Ask your shoe repair questions here:

[ducero]

Hello Nick,

I have a pair of engineer boots with some heel slippage. These fit perfectly at the vamp (instep) and are fully broken in to flex properly. The problem is that the heel still slips some when I’m walking full stride.

I’m wondering if I can have a cobbler add some leather inside to build up the heel counter. Is this something that is done with any success? Perhaps a rough out piece would also provide some added friction to help keep my heel in place.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate the advice and information you provide on this forum.

 

[Nick V.]

Hello Nick,

I have a pair of engineer boots with some heel slippage. These fit perfectly at the vamp (instep) and are fully broken in to flex properly. The problem is that the heel still slips some when I’m walking full stride.

I’m wondering if I can have a cobbler add some leather inside to build up the heel counter. Is this something that is done with any success? Perhaps a rough out piece would also provide some added friction to help keep my heel in place.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate the advice and information you provide on this forum.

Hello Sir--

On a shoe or ankle boot you would be correct. A back liner with the rough side of the skin facing out would be the typical fix. However on tall boots such as engineer boots that's not possible. You would need a device that will push your heel back into the boot. A tongue pad will help. Also, you can purchase a thin insole over-the-counter. Cut the insole so that you can insert only the front portion that would go under the vamp. Some shops sell them ready made like that.

 

[ducero]

Hello Sir--

On a shoe or ankle boot you would be correct. A back liner with the rough side of the skin facing out would be the typical fix. However on tall boots such as engineer boots that's not possible. You would need a device that will push your heel back into the boot. A tongue pad will help. Also, you can purchase a thin insole over-the-counter. Cut the insole so that you can insert only the front portion that would go under the vamp. Some shops sell them ready made like that.

Hi Nick,
Thanks for your help. I tried your suggestion and placed a thin insole at the front of the boot and it helped cure the problem about 80%. I might look into the tongue pad next but it's already much better. I never would've thought of that so thanks a million.

 

[Nick V.]

Hi Nick,
Thanks for your help. I tried your suggestion and placed a thin insole at the front of the boot and it helped cure the problem about 80%. I might look into the tongue pad next but it's already much better. I never would've thought of that so thanks a million.

Pleasure to help Sir--

Happy Holidays.

 

[classicalthunde]

Is it possible to replace a single leather sole w/ a dainite one, and still be able to keep the antique welt coloring?

I'm thinking with regards to this shoe in particular: https://www.aldenofcarmel.com/alden-of-carmel-color-8-shell-cordovan-handsewn-u-tip-blucher-746.htm

 

[mhip]

Hi Nick,
I have a pair of green anticato loafers that I really like, great leather.
On one shoe only, the anticato disappeared in nickel sized dots near the toe for reasons unknown. Never got wet, etc.
I purchased some leather paint, but am not satisfied with the outcome.
Would you suggest trying to dye them? And if so can you recommend a product?

 

[thuhoan]

Would it be possible to just replace the metal toe plates without replacing the leather sole? Considering the holes in the leather because of the screws.

 

[Nick V.]

Would it be possible to just replace the metal toe plates without replacing the leather sole? Considering the holes in the leather because of the screws.

Yes, that's not a problem. The existing holes would be plugged similar to plugging a hole in a piece of wood. Cement is inserted into the holes. The holes are filled with scrapes of wood or leather and set to dry. The plugs are sanded even and the new flush mounted metal toe piece is fitted and finished.
Also FWIW....even if you wear the toes down on a leather sole, metal toe pieces can still be applied without replacing the soles. The worn leather toe area is sanded down and a new leather tip is attached. The metal toe plate is then attached to the new leather tip. It's a common fix.

 

[Schweino]

I have a pair of boots on a double leather sole. I've almost worn through the first sole, should I resole now or wait until I've worn through both soles?

 

[Nick V.]

Good question. It's been asked of me many times. The terminology double sole is misleading. It implies 2 soles. That's not the case in the true sense. There is the outsole which is the original sole intended to strike normal walking surfaces. Then there is the mid "double sole". It's purpose is to add extra support and some like the cosmetic appearance it adds.
The outsole and mid sole are normally different thicknesses, the outsole being thicker. They most often are of different qualities. The outsole generally has a tighter grain and less flesh than the midsole. So, if your outsole is worn out and you continue to wear into the double (mid) sole you are wearing into a softer leather that is more porous and wont last long let alone not its intent. You won't get much mileage out of it. Add to that debris can get caught between the hole in the outsole and double sole. Also, if you continue to wear into the double sole eventually that will distort the footbed (which can be replaced) and insole (which can't).

I constantly see advertisements and read comments about, for instance, double JR soles.
No, they are not. What they are is a JR outsole with a mid "double" sole. The mid sole is not an outsole.

To answer your question, I would recommend having the outsole replaced slightly before wearing into the double sole.

 

[Schweino]

Good question. It's been asked of me many times. The terminology double sole is misleading. It implies 2 soles. That's not the case in the true sense. There is the outsole which is the original sole intended to strike normal walking surfaces. Then there is the mid "double sole". It's purpose is to add extra support and some like the cosmetic appearance it adds.
The outsole and mid sole are normally different thicknesses, the outsole being thicker. They most often are of different qualities. The outsole generally has a tighter grain and less flesh than the midsole. So, if your outsole is worn out and you continue to wear into the double (mid) sole you are wearing into a softer leather that is more porous and wont last long let alone not its intent. You won't get much mileage out of it. Add to that debris can get caught between the hole in the outsole and double sole. Also, if you continue to wear into the double sole eventually that will distort the footbed (which can be replaced) and insole (which can't).

I constantly see advertisements and read comments about, for instance, double JR soles.
No, they are not. What they are is a JR outsole with a mid "double" sole. The mid sole is not an outsole.

To answer your question, I would recommend having the outsole replaced slightly before wearing into the double sole.

Thanks Nick for explaining.

If I understand correctly, both soles are stitched to the welt. If so, will the mid sole be reused when replacing the outsole or will both soles be replaced?

Also, I think I've seen an insole replaced on youtube once (Bedo's iirc) so maybe it can be done?

 

[Nick V.]

Thanks Nick for explaining.

If I understand correctly, both soles are stitched to the welt. If so, will the mid sole be reused when replacing the outsole or will both soles be replaced?

Also, I think I've seen an insole replaced on youtube once (Bedo's iirc) so maybe it can be done?

My pleasure....

It's one stitch that goes through the outsole, mid sole and, welt. I don't like using the original mid sole. Reason being is aligning the original holes in the mid sole to the holes in the welt is very unlikely before they are stitched. Unless it's an absolute perfect alignment either (maybe both) the mid sole -or- welt will without certain be compromised. Then, what's left to be trimmed? The right (safest) way to do it is to replace the mid sole.
Physically, the insole can be replaced, however without at least a modified last?
I have reservations. 1. Is it cost practical? 2. How is the fit afterwards? ESP without a last being used.

 

[mr monty]

Hello Nick,
"Flush mounted metal toe plates" listed on your order form

Is this for Triumph toe plates? If not, what kind?
Thanks.

 

[Nick V.]

Hello Nick,
"Flush mounted metal toe plates" listed on your order form

Is this for Triumph toe plates? If not, what kind?
Thanks.

They are Lulu's.
We install them using brass plated Philip head screws which we special order.

 

[sam67]

Hi. I’ve come across a 1950s spectator that was listed in the catalog as white buck on black. The buck had that shoe white stuff put on it. I have cleaned most of it off with saphir suede cleaner. Now it’s closer to ivory in color. Would this color, from white to ivory, come with age or be due to the shoe whiting material? Since it is now ivory , I am considering dying it with tarrago suede dye- or do I just keep cleaning it? Any comments are appreciated.