Antonio Meccariello Shoes

[DWFII]



Sure. You're right. This is simply the work of Bestetti 2 years ago. And he thinks that in two years has improved a lot. In fact, I'll show you my details of my bespoke Gladietor me getting ready. It certainly is not the work that some would have you believe.

I wouldn't expect anything less. but as I said in another post, whenever a maker decides to increase production, he has to cut costs and, usually, hire on extra hands. At which point he loses control of the quality.

I don't know Bestetti's situation but others have mentioned that he is getting more and more into RTW...I wouldn't be surprised if his own personal work is exemplary but some of the workmanship coming from employees might not be so good.

 

[MSchapiro]

I have a strong feeling that over time as a maker begins to resolve through his issues he tackles them one at a time.

This, being a very minor one, probably comes near the end of the list of things. Having just launched Aurum, it will be interesting to see the progress over time. I can say even at the standard quality I have seen an improvement in many elements of my second pair.

I know as well even from my own personal work (in the business world) the stages were creating something good, learning what you don't yet know, consistent improvement, very concept heavy but much better work and finally well executed simplicity.

The standard line was clearly the first stage, Aurum clearly is the fourth stage. Over time we may see the tiniest of imperfections ironed out.
For instance in mine there is a slight mispelling of my name inside the shoe.

I wouldn't expect anything less. but as I said in another post, whenever a maker decides to increase production, he has to cut costs and, usually, hire on extra hands. At which point he loses control of the quality.

I don't know Bestetti's situation but others have mentioned that he is getting more and more into RTW...I wouldn't be surprised if his own personal work is exemplary but some of the workmanship coming from employees might not be so good.

DW, do you think this is always true? If not how much more often do you think quality is decrease by doing this? If one person handles only the finishing, may that person not be better than an individual maker?

For instance if I only have to keep track of five different processes in the finishing, I could probably ensure much greater consistency than I could when I have a full shoes worth of work being required.
I would think the rolling on the heel (not sure the correct name) would be exactly the kind of thing a second person could do just as well if not better than a single maker.

 

[DWFII]



I have a strong feeling that over time as a maker begins to resolve through his issues he tackles them one at a time.

This, being a very minor one, probably comes near the end of the list of things.

First, you've struck right to the heart of the issue--the maker. When a person starts a business or esp. pursues some of the more arcane fields of endeavors, he needs to have a passion. that's what motivates, esp. if the learning curve is steep. As decent and hard working, as diligent as they may be, no one who does not share that passion will ever be as concerned or as "caring" as he will be.

Second...cuts in the upper along the heel seat are not minor issues. And while the wobbly wheeling below the heel seat may be minor it is almost the definition of not caring.The heelseat has to be trimmed and leveled for the wheeling to be level and straight. this just takes time and the native interest to see when it is not.

DW, do you think this is always true? If not how much more often do you think quality is decrease by doing this? If one person handles only the finishing, may that person not be better than an individual maker?

For instance if I only have to keep track of five different processes in the finishing, I could probably ensure much greater consistency than I could when I have a full shoes worth of work being required.
I would think the rolling on the heel (not sure the correct name) would be exactly the kind of thing a second person could do just as well if not better than a single maker.

See above, but I think this is always true over time. In fact, I can't think of an exception. Again, it comes down to passion. And when you break down the process into small jobs and/or stations you may...if fortune smiles on you...find someone both dedicated enough and indifferent enough to not care about the boredom of doing that job over and over again. Someone who is OK with having no real personal investment in making the entire shoe or in becoming an actual shoemaker--and skilled in all aspects of the work. But I think it would be unusual. Anyone who can do such repetitive work isn't really interested in shoemaking. And anyone who is interested in being a shoemaker would not be happy or feel like he was contributing, doing one job .

Furthermore, take the issue of heel seat wheeling...trimming and leveling the heel seat would, in many factory situations, be one job, and finishing...including heel seat wheeling...would be another. So, the upshot is that the finisher has to rely on the workmanship of the bottom man--the guy trimming and leveling the heel seat--to do his job properly. If the bottom man doesn't trim and level the outsole or put the heel seat in properly, the heel seat wheel will never track level.

Sam Luchesse once said that the most important job in a boot (shoe) shop was the person who sewed the pieces together. And then he recanted and said "No, it was the guy who cut out the pieces," because if the clicker didn't do his job properly the sewing couldn't be done properly. Recanting yet again, it was the person who laid out the patterns because if the patterns weren't right the clicking wouldn't be right.

You get the picture. Everybody has to care like the shoes were their own. And in the real world, the only way that happens is if every job is handled by the same guy--the guy with the passion, interest and dedication to excellence...the guy who personally has to be responsible.

Whoever made those shoes with the cut uppers didn't care, or the cuts would not have occurred. Whoever made those shoes with the wobbly heel seat wheeling didn't have to answer for the results..

 

[MSchapiro]

See above, but I think this is always true over time.

Very interesting, thanks. Your knowledge of shoe making really provides perspective.

Although, what about the Japanese? If I have ever seen anyone take a pride in doing just a few jobs, no matter how trivial, absolutely perfectly, it is them. Perhaps just a bias on my part?

 

[T4phage]



I don't know Bestetti's situation but others have mentioned that he is getting more and more into RTW...I wouldn't be surprised if his own personal work is exemplary but some of the workmanship coming from employees might not be so good.

riccardo makes the
shoes himself
if it is novecento
or bespoke

 

[T4phage]



I have a strong feeling that over time as a maker begins to resolve through his issues he tackles them one at a time.

This, being a very minor one, probably comes near the end of the list of things. Having just launched Aurum, it will be interesting to see the progress over time. I can say even at the standard quality I have seen an improvement in many elements of my second pair.......

The standard line was clearly the first stage, Aurum clearly is the fourth stage. Over time we may see the tiniest of imperfections ironed out.

indeed
since aurum was
just launched
it may have some
minor cosmetic
refinements needed
such as adjustments
to the tool
to smoothen
the top of the
heel

eg;
here is a shoe
posted by member
alexg33 awhile ago
from his standard line

 

[MSchapiro]

Perhaps one of the nice things of being American is that outside of this forum, no one there will ever notice .

 

[SoGent]

indeed
since aurum was
just launched
it may have some
minor cosmetic
refinements needed
such as adjustments
to the tool
to smoothen
the top of the
heel

eg;
here is a shoe
posted by member
alexg33 awhile ago
from his standard line

educate me please . . . . I see nothing wrong or incorrect with this

 

[T4phage]

^
correct
teh point was
that pix was of
the standard line
where all kinks
were worked out
aurum is new
so may have
some little finishing
errors

 

[SoGent]

^
correct
teh point was
that pix was of
the standard line
where all kinks
were worked out
aurum is new
so may have
some little finishing
errors

ah see. as long as he's taken to 'fine tune' the lasts, I would think his detail to the rest of the shoe would follow very close behind.

 

[MSchapiro]

When is that standard line picture from? I notice that the heel on my second pair was much more refined than on the first, even though the first was cosmetically perfect.


Also has anyone seen the quality of his test shoes?

http://31.media.tumblr.com/bb2560620a8616520360937744fb92e3/tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo2_1280.jpg
http://24.media.tumblr.com/62dae5c9ffb49130e42b90e95523435e/tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo5_1280.jpg

I want a pair just to try out the lasts!

 

[SoGent]

When is that standard line picture from? I notice that the heel on my second pair was much more refined than on the first, even though the first was cosmetically perfect.


Also has anyone seen the quality of his test shoes?

http://31.media.tumblr.com/bb2560620a8616520360937744fb92e3/tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo2_1280.jpg
http://24.media.tumblr.com/62dae5c9ffb49130e42b90e95523435e/tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo5_1280.jpg

I want a pair just to try out the lasts!

geebus . . . . those are for TEST fit ?

 

[MSchapiro]

Yup. You get to keep them too, not cut open.

 

[T4phage]



When is that standard line picture from? I notice that the heel on my second pair was much more refined than on the first, even though the first was cosmetically perfect.

i believe two
or so years
i found them
on photos
uploaded by
alexg33

 

[chobochobo]

I'm gearing up to order mine from Antonio, quite excited.

As an aside, perhaps it'd be better to keep the critique of Bestetti out of this thread?